any machinging people here.

[big job]

Although its been 45 yrs since one of these came in the shop. Ok i get a good
.0025 .00255 on the mains, is this too tight?? Already done the prussen blue
thing, (thats good). I can move the crank with my pinkey. Next I cant find anybody that deals with crank end play. we got about .035 + - that aint goingto fly. I''m fixin to face the flywheel end, and use bronze split washers? bringing it to about .005. good or bad? Thinking of Detroit Diesels use' split rings for thrust bearings. I just cant find a site with this info. My thinking is i will make a releif cut on the (end) flange flywheel side,
to receive a thrust bearing rings. The pressure is always forward (to the front) when your clutch or hand brake is appied, thats what wears.. So I cant
find any product for this, however you will need a lathe. I will machine these in any size for 5 bucks plus postage. These will be a two piece (recessed) with
oil reliefs machined in.

 

[Kohnke Rebabbitting]

1. You want to center the center main on the center bearing of the block. That will tell you what has to be replaced on the front, and back of the rear main cap.

2. When you pull the leaver back for nutral, all the pressure in on the front of the rear main.

3. The clearance on the mains should be set to .001-25, to .001-75, not over, or under.

4. You can add babbitt on the two thrust ends, and cut back to size to get .003-50, to not over .004 thousandths clearance.

 

[J and M Machine]

Hello the rod and main clearance is .0015" as the journals are all 1.250 std. size.
Thrust is .004 -.006"
IF the crank has that much end play you'll have to face the crankshaft as the thrust surface of the crank will be worn as well.
You'll have to correct that before making your thrust washer.

 

[Kohnke Rebabbitting]

Service Manual

 

[big job]

1. You want to center the center main on the center bearing of the block. That will tell you what has to be replaced on the front, and back of the rear main cap.

2. When you pull the leaver back for nutral, all the pressure in on the front of the rear main.

3. The clearance on the mains should be set to .001-25, to .001-75, not over, or under.

4. You can add babbitt on the two thrust ends, and cut back to size to get .003-50, to not over .004 thousandths clearance.

Thanks #2 answered my question, been 50ys since I've been into one of these. The lower end ran fine, only reason to pull the crank is to machine
valve seats on the mill.

 

[big job]

Hello the rod and main clearance is .0015" as the journals are all 1.250 std. size.
Thrust is .004 -.006"
IF the crank has that much end play you'll have to face the crankshaft as the thrust surface of the crank will be worn as well.
You'll have to correct that before making your thrust washer.

My thought is to face the crank sides (like counterbored) and use spilt bronze
rings, just like Detroit diesels. They cant come out they will act like flathead floating bearings. If my head is screwed on correct I will center the center
main and fit these thrust washers to .004 to .006 as you say. I really have to
go this route cause both crank sides are phonografted but the cap is good.