Antifreeze Leak

D

DC 69

Member
Been driving my '29 CCPU weekly and am pretty happy with how it's running. I've had to deal with a dripping top radiator hose because of a clamp issue and I have been tightening the waterpump packing nut to control a drip. These issues semed to be solved.

On the last few outings, I smelled an antifreeze odor while driving. When I parked in my garage, I noticed antifreeze came through the right side slots on the engine hood cowling. There was enough (but not alot) antifreeze to spray on the right front fender. I couldn't find an obvious leak. Today, I noticed I can move the waterpump shaft in & out about 1/8" with me hand holding the fan blade:confused. Is this normal? Could this be where the antifreeze is coming out?

I keep the antifreeze level just to the top of the radiator and have been able to maintain this level.

Any help/suggestions/directions are greatly appreciated. - Thanks
 
That is more play than you want, but mine had more. The suppliers sell a collar that you can slip onto the shaft to limit the play. I just wound up getting a new water pump since mine was so bad.
 
The for and aft play can very well be from the head being eroded away. Get the collar and stop the head from being the controlling aft stop, regardless of the cause.

John
 
You mention that you are able to "keep the water level just to the top of the radiator".
Do you need to add coolant on a regular basis in order to keep it there?
If you are you may have the radiator too full. Model A's generally do not like to have their radiators full up to the top. They will spit out excess coolant until they find the level that they like.
Try driving without adding any coolant for a while. Keep an eye on the level. As long as it keeps the tubes covered you will be fine.
Too often folks keep adding coolant in an attempt to keep it full and the car just spits it back out.
Get a cheap meat thermometer and use it often to check the temperature of your coolant. This will help you learn what your engine is doing and will give you peace of mind that you are not overheating it while you are letting it find it's "level".
 
1crosscut said:
You mention that you are able to "keep the water level just to the top of the radiator".
Do you need to add coolant on a regular basis in order to keep it there?
If you are you may have the radiator too full. Model A's generally do not like to have their radiators full up to the top. They will spit out excess coolant until they find the level that they like.
Try driving without adding any coolant for a while. Keep an eye on the level. As long as it keeps the tubes covered you will be fine.
Too often folks keep adding coolant in an attempt to keep it full and the car just spits it back out.
Get a cheap meat thermometer and use it often to check the temperature of your coolant. This will help you learn what your engine is doing and will give you peace of mind that you are not overheating it while you are letting it find it's "level".
Click to expand...

I second that. Mine started blowing out coolant when I changed from straight water to 50/50. It stays leakless at about 1/4 inch over the tops of the tubes. As they say, the water in a Model A seeks its own level.
 
It’s easy for me to spend your money and here I go.

New dripless water pump, check fan blade also. If your pulling out water pump, that’s the time to correct any other problems. Reliability, is important if your looking to enjoy your car. If you just like to be puttering, than make do.

New style water pump with new two blade aluminum fan is a major up grade. Enjoy.
 
Your water pump moving for and aft that much is easily corrected by using the collar sold by most all of the vendors as others have mentioned in earlier posts. While not the "correct" fix it does do the job. It is installed at the front of the pump just behind the fan and is not visible after it's installed. If you are no longer seeing any sign of leakage at the water pump the coolant your seeing now is most likely coming from the radiator overflow tube. It exits at the base of the radiator and then can be blown back into the engine compartment.
 
I was loosing water and I noticed my pump shaft was going ahead and astern when I revved the engine . I deduced that maybe that was the cause as tightening the packing did not cure the waterpump leak .I went the cheap and cheerfull route and fitted a small stainless hose clamp up against the brass packing nut with just a little clearance . I works a treat and saved me pulling the pump and putting washers in or building up the shaft end etc etc . No wear at all on the pack nut yet . I know you can buy the split collar but this way cheaper !!!

John in very mild strange weather no snow this Xmas Suffolk County England .
 
I for one hate to see original pumps get the bad wrap. They are a part of the car that commands respect and just a little attention. Many threads on dealing with end play and all aspects of repair. The leak-less pumps are fine until they begin to leak. You won't fix it on the side of the road. Just one more upgrade that isn't needed.
 
100IH said:
I for one hate to see original pumps get the bad wrap. They are a part of the car that commands respect and just a little attention. Many threads on dealing with end play and all aspects of repair. The leak-less pumps are fine until they begin to leak. You won't fix it on the side of the road. Just one more upgrade that isn't needed.
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NEVER had any kind of problem or heard of failure problems with dripless water pumps. Over 40 years, many miles, and a number of cars. No over heating, dripping, grease issues, noise, fan blade moving in and out. Nothing!

If you like to putter with your car I fully agree that the original is completely functional, but it does need maintenance,

I prefer trouble free driving. I don’t like to fix anything on the side of the road.

We all have our view, just giving mine. Merry Christmas.
 
100IH said:
I for one hate to see original pumps get the bad wrap. They are a part of the car that commands respect and just a little attention. Many threads on dealing with end play and all aspects of repair. The leak-less pumps are fine until they begin to leak. You won't fix it on the side of the road. Just one more upgrade that isn't needed.
Click to expand...

Yep, I've seen more than my share of people's leakless pumps either loose a bearing or start leaking in only a year or two.

I rebuilt my 28 pump completely stock by using two lead packing rings in the brass packing nut. Just make sure you pack grease around the rings when you install them. In 16 years I only checked the nut a couple times and gave the rear bushing a small pump of grease a few times, and the pump never leaked a drop of antifreeze. I ALWAYS use 50/50 antifreeze.
 
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Tom Wesenberg, Years Ago I Picked Up Some Cord That Had Grease on it. I Thought It Was For Water pumps ???? Also If I Use Grease Is It A Special Grease ??? Thank You For Your Answers !!!!
 
Spokes said:
Tom Wesenberg, Years Ago I Picked Up Some Cord That Had Grease on it. I Thought It Was For Water pumps ???? Also If I Use Grease Is It A Special Grease ??? Thank You For Your Answers !!!!
Click to expand...

I always use water soluable grease on my water pumps, in case there is an internal leak.
 
Spokes said:
Tom Wesenberg, Years Ago I Picked Up Some Cord That Had Grease on it. I Thought It Was For Water pumps ???? Also If I Use Grease Is It A Special Grease ??? Thank You For Your Answers !!!!
Click to expand...

Years ago I read that graphite string or rope is for faucet handles, and lead packing rings are for fast spinning water pump shafts, and that works for me. Just be sure the lead rings have grease around them, or you'll still have a slow drip. Also have a good smooth shaft, good thrust washer, and locking collar.
 
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