Antifreeze Leak Help!

flipp

flipp

Member
I'm having an issue with my Model A and who else better to ask than Fordbarn fellas. :-)
I'm a newbie when it comes to Model A's and their engine so forgive if I sound ignorant. Today I noticed a small antifreeze leak when I fired up my Model A. The leak is coming from the belt shaft that holds the radiator fan.. not sure what it is called but I do have a picture attached that will show you exactly where the leak is coming from. Can you please help me out in figuring out the problem and how to go about it in fixing it? I would really appreciate it so much.

Thanks guys!
 

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If it is a original water pump adjust the packing nut the large brass 1 just forward of your leak also grease the pump with water pump grease
 
Thanks for the quick reply, Colin1928!

I told you I was a newbie.. I didn't even know that was the water pump. Ok, I'm learning now. So, you are saying to adjust the packing nut, but as in how? Adjust it by turning either way until it stops leaking?

BTW: Yes, It is all original.

Thanks for your help, my friend! :-)
 
Hi Get the correct grease and grease it 1st then run the engine a few minutes sometimes thats all that need
if it still leaks the adjuster is std right hand thread try 1/4 to 1/2 turn in
careful not to over tighten that will burn the wadding
 
The water pump is a cause of much discussion and hours of observation over the time you own the car. If the pump is really original I would think a complete overhaul of the pump would be in order. Then you would understand how it is designed and works. Bill G
 
couple of notes. 1. Precisely where isthe water coming from. If it is coming from the back side of the "Packing Nut" then careflu tightening of the Nut might solve your problem. 2. If is is coming from between the threads and the casting of the Water Pump then you have other problems and complete rebuild is in order.

Secondly that looks like one of the low cost steel packing nuts - not a heavy cast - Brass or Zinc one. The thin stte ones are not even in the catalog anymore. Thin Steel packing nut is not original. This water pump has been rebuilt somewhere in its life. No big thing - just making observation. ken
 
Flipp welcome. Buy books, lots of books. It is the best investment you can make.
Les Andrews book(s) and the Ford service manual. Be patient, sometimes they fix themselves especially if they have been sitting for some time.*
Hang out here, great people.

*Many people new at this find that the car fixes them! They have quirks and personality. Modern cars are just cars. Years back they were often called "she' and had names, I rest my case.<g>
 
If it was my car I'd replace that 4 blade fan with a new aluminum fan and rebuild the water pump. Rebuilding the pump is easy. When you replace the rear bushing make sure the casting isn't cracked where the bushing fits. I don't worry about a very short crack at the rearmost edge, but some cracks run up to the flange area and then the housing should be replaced. I'd buy the brass bushing with the seal in the rear. Some vendors have a bushing with a double lip, and others have a single lip. I prefer the double lip, but either one should work fine. Be sure to use new lead packing rings (2) in the new packing nut, and put lots of grease around the lead rings as you install them in the nut. My pump done this way has not leaked a drop in over 10 years.
 
Hi Flipp,

Really like your original description of a water pump without using the "water pump" word -- not many could write such an ingenious description of a mechanical item.

However, if you remove the water pump, the radiator along with the pump has to mover forward because of having to clear the original protruding water pump studs screwed into the engine head.

If you are not too concerned with using 100% original WP studs, Model A vendors sell WP mounting bolts with attached nuts whereby when installed, one does not have to move the radiator & pump forward in order to remove the water pump in the future -- i.e., both the nut & bolt can be removed where one will not have protruding studs to contend with for the next water pump removal.
 
I agree with Tom and H.L. But I would try this first because the other choices are pretty involved. Drain the coolant below the level of the water pump first, you can pour it back in after this process. Back the packing nut all the way off the threads of the rear bushing and slide the packing nut foward on the shaft. Grease the rear grease fitting untill grease starts coming out around the shaft where it protrudes from the threaded rear bushing. Put some water pump grease in the packing nut with your finger and start the packing nut back on the threaded rear bushing but not tight. Pour the coolant back in the radiator and tighten the packing nut just enough to stop the leak. Don't tighten the packing nut too tight or you will spin the threaded rear bushing and ruin the pump. Just use common sense when tightening the packing nut. If it doesn't stop leaking, you may have to install more packing or rebuild or replace the pump if its cracked. I've used this method on my 29 tudor with good results. Antifreeze leaks in places that plain water doesn't. It usually doesn't get that cold where I live and I just use tap water and water pump lubricant. A small bottle of Gunk water pump lubricant added to the radiator will stop rust in the water jacket and the engine will run cooler with water than antifreeze.
 
Flipp I agree the leekless water pumps work great .The plus feature is you never have to adjust it or grease it.And you do not have to worry about putting in to much grease witch can plug up your radiator and cooling system in the block
 
RonC said:
Replace it with a leakless pump it you can't stop the leak
Click to expand...

I would agree with this because I am not a real original type guy. So it other words, if you are not one to keep everything original, then a leakless pump may be the easy answer. But do buy a good quality leakless pump from one of the quality vendors in the industry (there are a number of them). Also do consider the concerns mentioned above about having to move the radiator forward. If this is a problem, buy books like mentioned above or get some help from someone that may be in a Model A club near you.

Also if you want to adjust the nut to keep it from leaking, most of the vendors sell a tool for that purpose that works much better than a screwdriver or what ever else you may use.

Good luck and have fun with your A.
 
Wow!! Thanks, guys!! You all have such great advice for a newbie like me.

I think I'll be getting my hands dirty and approaching the issue the way senior member "Purdy Swoft" suggested first. It'll probably save me from replacing the entire pump if I attempt this fix first. Greasing it and putting it back together doesn't sounds too painful. Besides, I think this is a great way to learn in my opinion. If it continues to leak, then I'll be going with a leakless pump all together like so many of you suggested. I would like to keep it all as original as possible but If replacing the pump with one that isn't original and it will keep me from future headaches then that may just be in order.
I buy all of my Model A accessories from Bert's.. Is that a good vendor to buy a leakless pump from if I do need one?

Thanks again all for such a great response and for your expertise.
 
Flip in So Cal is where its always sunny. :-) I ended up ordering a fresh new Leakless Water Pump from Bert's just in case the leak doesn't stop. Thanks again guys for all of your help.
 
Order a 2 blade aluminum also, just bend the 4 blades backwards and it will come off without taking the radiator out.
 
Will the 2 blade fan work as effectively as the 4? Whats the advantage of having a 2 blade over a 4 besides the additional space?
 
The aluminum two blade prop fan has more pitch and moves more air. An added benefit is it looks like the original and is safe. I've had two of the old four blade fans sling a blade that barely missed me.
 
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