Anti-Seize Compound

T

Tanner SC

Junior Member
About 30 years ago we used a lot of Loctite products in manufacturing. At one of their seminars I learned about Loctite anti-seize and was given some samples.
I used it a lot of places when rebuilding a '65 Mustang engine and a couple others. Then it became a Permatex brand and my latest can is again Loctite.
Years later, disassembly was easy, even on normally difficult bolts and nuts.
Now I wonder about the general use of this stuff on flathead engines and drivelines? Are there some places that it definitely should not be used? Where is it a very good idea?
Thanks.
 
I use anti-seize in bi-metal applications like steel bolts in aluminum holes to prevent electrolytic corrosion from seizing. It is also highly recommended to use anytime you are installing stainless steel bolts to prevent galling. Some manufacturers will void warrantees if you don't use it.
 
Excellent question. I've been trying to figure it out as well. During disassembly of my 1940 1/2 Ton, I noticed a few things that were a bear to remove. #1 would be the front axle spring perches. I think you could use it on them. I also had trouble with the rear drums. I would like to know if anti-seize could be used between the rear hub and axle. Perhaps where the shock links go into the axles. The king pins could probably use a lick as well. I hope someone can provide a list. Dennis/Arkansas
 
Do not use anti-sizes on the rear axel to drums. It will make the make the axel slip in the drum and shear the key. Rear axel should be clean and dry and smooth and torque the axel nut 200# and check after driving awhile. Walt
 
Anti-seize is excelent on tapered shafts but I wouldn't recommend puting any on the nut threads due to the high torque involved. You also have to make sure you have at least 90% metal to metal contact on tapered shafts. I use the stuff for putting interference fit items together where you don't have to worry about it loosening and spinning (has some form of locking device). I even put some on the back part of bearing shells in an engine to keep them from fretting and galling in service. It will stay on splined fit components better than grease in some situations but not all.

I use the loctite nickel based stuff. It works well on bolt & screw threads that are exposed to very high temperatures.
 
Last edited:
anti-seize sure is a life saver! anything i can bolt together i apply it on,great on shaft assemblies also.
 
I always use nickel based antisieze on head studs when fitting aluminium heads, spark plug threads into ally heads, also on threads and gaskets of exhaust manifolds, and on stainless fasteners of any description. Also use it for general fasteners, eg, fender bolts to simplify future removal of same. Just get into the practice of using it wherever possible. When assembling a component ask yourself "Who's gonna be the next person to have to dismantle this?" If it's gonna be you sometime in the future, do yourself a big favour and put a bit of antisieze on the threads etc as you go! Brian
 
I first started using it years ago on exhaust systems- where the pipes slip fit together and on the clamps. Go back 7 years later when the pipes have rotted, clamp nuts zip off and a little bit of wiggling is all it takes to separate the pipes. I'm working on putting a car together now and anything that was a bear to disassemble (like perch bolts) gets a generous helping. As Walt said, NEVER on tapered axle / hub joints.
 
when i was doing my apperanceship maney years ago a lot of cars had tapered axles the reg mech. used to put chalk on the axle said it would hold taper tighter. don,t know if true or not .
 
On tapered shafts, chalk or talcum will work but never any type of lubricant and this includes Never Seize. This is a guaranteed disaster. You want to assemble these components as dry as possible and as tight as specs call for.
I saw a 3500# flywheel with a tapered hub that was installed with grease come off and make a dramatic path out through the engine room wall and across the plant yard until it finally stopped and fell over. Fortunately it never hit any critical equipment.
 
the different compounds of never seize are for different systems whereby any inclusion into system would contaminate the process system. like in a refinery. some crucial systems there, and im sure others .. like food process plants . you get what i mean , i hope. i dont think any systems of our autos would be hurt by ANY of the compounds out there.. i recommend them to be used routinely... except for the above mentioned tapered axle fitments. just be shure to wash up be - fore any further activity.. think about the stuff absorbing in to the skin...be careful....... did a research on msds,of it ... got lots of lead , and other fine , but deadly metals in it...good luck...kev
 
Walt,

200 foot punds on a '48 Ford rear axle nut? I took them to 100 Ft Lbs. and thought I was good.



Walt Dupont--Me. said:
Do not use anti-sizes on the rear axel to drums. It will make the make the axel slip in the drum and shear the key. Rear axel should be clean and dry and smooth and torque the axel nut 200# and check after driving awhile. Walt
Click to expand...
 
We race modified snowmobiles with engines of 200-250 HP. The clutches are a taper fit on the crankshaft,no key. I always use a very thin coating of never-seize on the shaft. Been doing it for 40 yrs. and never had a problem with the clutch slipping. The bolt that holds the clutch to the taper is torqued to 50 ft. lbs. The taper and the bore have to be clean and free of any nicks or burrs. We lap the bore to the taper. The thought that never sieze on a taper will cause it to slip is a myth. If you gob it on,have a cruddy fit,and don't torque it properly, you will have problems. It sure makes things easier when it comes time to take it off rather than fight,heat,pound,and take a chance of wrecking something. I've used it on all the axles in my V-8s and model As including a 59A powered 34 coupe that was raced on dirt ovals. I wonder if the guys that say don't use it have ever tried it or if they're just repeating something they've heard.
 
Interesting Dee Jay. There are obviously two schools of thought on using anti-seize on tapered axles. Nice to hear from someone who has used it in a racing application. Dennis/Arkansas
Dee Jay said:
We race modified snowmobiles with engines of 200-250 HP. The clutches are a taper fit on the crankshaft,no key. I always use a very thin coating of never-seize on the shaft. Been doing it for 40 yrs. and never had a problem with the clutch slipping. The bolt that holds the clutch to the taper is torqued to 50 ft. lbs. The taper and the bore have to be clean and free of any nicks or burrs. We lap the bore to the taper. The thought that never sieze on a taper will cause it to slip is a myth. If you gob it on,have a cruddy fit,and don't torque it properly, you will have problems. It sure makes things easier when it comes time to take it off rather than fight,heat,pound,and take a chance of wrecking something. I've used it on all the axles in my V-8s and model As including a 59A powered 34 coupe that was raced on dirt ovals. I wonder if the guys that say don't use it have ever tried it or if they're just repeating something they've heard.
Click to expand...
 
Using anti-seize, or any type of lubricant on a keyed tapered shaft is setting one self up to problems. Any slippage of the joint will cause the key to shear at the least or the shaft to break out the keyway. A tapered un-keyed shaft will not matter if it slips! In over 50 years of wrenching, I have seen the effects of this on cars as well as large machinery.
 
I use antiseize on a lot of stuff, but I go with the ABSOLUTELY NOT gang when it comes to putting it on a tapered shaft that I want no radial action from... Karl
 
'Anti-Seize Compound ' don't leave home without it! If that 'twisting to tighten up' type fastener tightens up and/or moves antiseize it. Someday you may wish to take it apart. Reduce torque when using such compounds.


skip.
 
Metal-filled anti-seize compounds are Ok for peventing galling and in some cases fretting corosion. Pure, metal-free pastes are what the big boys use, especially with high temps where the metal in the compounds would become solder-like and the sulpur compounds cause embrittlement of the fasteners. Some require less torque to reach the proper stretch, and overtightening can easily happen. The one I use is also a lubricant, which cannot be said of the anti-seize compounds, and is good up to 2500F. I use it on intake and exhaust gaskets, head gaskets, studs or bolts where they pass through a casting and into the receiving threads, plus on ground connections and fasteners of all sorts, especailly stainless. It is used by the Gov. in nuclear power plants, on land and sea, and in most of the military hardware being used in warfare.
Molykote P-37.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top