Anti-Seize Compound Payback Years later

19Fordy

19Fordy

Well-known member
Removed water pumps today as they need rebuilding. Thank goodness for bronze bolts and anti-seize compound.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3463b.jpg
    IMG_3463b.jpg
    28.2 KB · Views: 201
  • IMG_3466B.jpg
    IMG_3466B.jpg
    27.7 KB · Views: 193
  • IMG_3467B.jpg
    IMG_3467B.jpg
    74.5 KB · Views: 189
  • IMG_3468B.jpg
    IMG_3468B.jpg
    69.3 KB · Views: 168
A great point, everything that I bolt back together gets a dab of anti-seize on the threads.

I use Loctite C5-A copper base anti-seize, I do not use as much on the Model T as it lubes itself:D
 
Thanks for the reminder. That hidden bolt in the water pump has caused a lot of head scratching over the years. I think that Henry chuckled when he came up with that idea.
 
chap52 said:
Thanks for the reminder. That hidden bolt in the water pump has caused a lot of head scratching over the years. I think that Henry chuckled when he came up with that idea.
Click to expand...

What I do is remove all bolts. Put my ratchet on the hidden bolt and tap the
water pump 'lead hammer' in the direction with tension on the ratchet.
Have not broken one yet.
 
I put anti-seize on EVERYTHING short of a pizza. I'm glad to see it works as intended even decades later!
 
Yeah, buddy. I think my bottle of copper anti-seize is going on twenty years. Love that stuff. Like others have said, a little dab will do you.
 
Admiral said:
I put anti-seize on EVERYTHING short of a pizza. I'm glad to see it works as intended even decades later!
Click to expand...


You do know there's food grade anti seize for that?

(No lie. Don't think I would eat it though, its really slimy.)
 
FirstGenF2 said:
Im not familiar with anti-sieze or bronze bolts, could you explain the purpose and the advantage?
Click to expand...

Anti-seize is like a grease compound mixed with either a copper or aluminum powder it help control rust and the powder acts like little ball bearings in your threads, make removal of bolts,nuts easier down the road. Bronze also won't rust together with the steel making removal easier.
 
F2: Bronze bolts are expensive so I used them only on bolts that you rarely remove and have a high tendency to literally corrode and seize to the adjoining metal, like exhaust headers and the infamous hidden water pump bolts.

Also use stainless plus anti seize to prevent galling. Keep in mind bronze and stainless may not have the torque strength required compared to "graded" steel hex bolts.
 
There are some bolts/nuts/studs that have very specific torque values then require them to be torqued dry (as in NO lubricant). Anti-seize is great for most applications, I use it a lot. Just be aware it is not suitable for every application.
 
19Fordy said:
F2: Bronze bolts are expensive so I used them only on bolts that you rarely remove and have a high tendency to literally corrode and seize to the adjoining metal, like exhaust headers and the infamous hidden water pump bolts.

Also use stainless plus anti seize to prevent galling. Keep in mind bronze and stainless may not have the torque strength required compared to "graded" steel hex bolts.
Click to expand...
Both SS and Silicone Bronze bolt...Use Grade 2 torque specs as the "UPPER LIMIT" of your torque values!!!! For SS bolt......IF you are so inclined.....Use High Nickel Anti Seize which in "some" applications is better than standard Anti-Seize BUT by and large the 'standard" anti-seize is just fine for what we as car restorer do, IF you need Silicone Bronze bolts and are having trouble finding anyone in your area that stocks them....PM me I have them in stock!!! As well as BOTH grades of Stainless Steel
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top