Another water pump problem.............

G&N Farms

G&N Farms

Senior Member
I had a bad water pump so I replaced it with a leakless from Snyder's. It is the one that can be tightened if it starts to leak.

http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/model-a-ford-no-leak-ball-bearing-water-pump

It says it has a cut down impeller. If I tighten it enough to be sealed, it will turn but not very easy. If I loosen it, it turns fine. I put everything back together before I tried it. Should I put a thicker gasket on or grind the back down? I don't think it would take much.

Hope this is understandable, and thanks in advance.
 
Mitch is correct. The new shafts seem to come with a little longer snout to compensate for wear inside the original cylinder head, where the shaft has been running against the indentation for the past 88+ years. If there is not much wear here or a new cylinder head is installed, the snub end of the new water pump shaft must be ground down until the pump can be bolted in place WITHOUT the gasket with a minimum friction. The gasket is then installed so that the shaft end will have slight contact to keep the shaft from going back and forth, as we see so often in Model A's. Make sure you grind or file the end of the shaft as perfectly square as you can so that the entire surface area of the end barely contacts the indentation inside the cylinder head. In other words, you don't want a slant on the shaft end that will wear down quickly. The more level surface area achieved here, the longer the pump will run without back-and-forth movement. Take a little off the shaft end at a time and test fit for proper spin resistance. If the shaft won't turn or it turns hard, take off a little more meat from the shaft end. It's a trial and error procedure, but well worth the time invested to get a well-seated shaft.
Marshall
 
Marshall spent the time to explain things in detail... I'm running around like a chicken without a head....
If you had the mounting studs out put sealer on the r/s upper stud as its not a blind hole and goes into the coolant
 
I wasn't sure if you meant tightening the packing nut, or tightening the mounting nuts, because tightening the packing nut too much can also cause a bind. Be sure to use grease around the lead packing rings in the packing collar nut.
 
Tom Wesenberg said:
I wasn't sure if you meant tightening the packing nut, or tightening the mounting nuts, because tightening the packing nut too much can also cause a bind. Be sure to use grease around the lead packing rings in the packing collar nut.
Click to expand...

The mounting nuts. The packing nut is loose, but thanks.
 
If you look into the head you will see a vertical piece of casting. This originally was the way the end play was taken car of. Some vendors sell a longer shaft where it enters the head to account for the wear on that piece of casting.

It appears that you need to grind down the end that goes into the head until you get clearance. If the water pump is not bound tight when the nuts are tightened and the pump will still turn albeit real tight, you might get away with just adding another gasket instead of grinding.
 
Talk about timing, I was half way through replacing my water pump, ended up having to unbolt the headlight bar to get the rad far enough forward to get the old one out. Thought I would have a quick look at the BARN and HAMB as I do daily before getting back to installing the new and read this thread. Prefitted the new pump after reading this and yes, had to grind a fair bit, probably 2mm off it. So thanks for saving me a drama before it happened.:)
 
Manager said:
Talk about timing, I was half way through replacing my water pump, ended up having to unbolt the headlight bar to get the rad far enough forward to get the old one out. Thought I would have a quick look at the BARN and HAMB as I do daily before getting back to installing the new and read this thread. Prefitted the new pump after reading this and yes, had to grind a fair bit, probably 2mm off it. So thanks for saving me a drama before it happened.:)
Click to expand...

Always use the search feature this has been discussed many times before. :)
 
Manager said:
...replacing my water pump, ended up having to unbolt the headlight bar to get the rad far enough forward to get the old one out...
Click to expand...

At least on my rig, given the choice of unbolting the headlight bar and just removing the radiator, removing the radiator would win every time. That headlight bar on mine is a b***h to get back on.
 
CarlG said:
At least on my rig, given the choice of unbolting the headlight bar and just removing the radiator, removing the radiator would win every time. That headlight bar on mine is a b***h to get back on.
Click to expand...

Me to just because of possible paint and sheet metal issues at the point of attachment...
 
Yeah my headlight bar goes in and out easy. It fits really good and the big suprise is it's a repro vintique one.:)
One day I will work out how to use the search, I don't seem to have much joy with it. I find more on here by searching it on google than I do with the search but I must be doing something wrong.:confused:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top