Another spark plug question

ncstreetrodder

ncstreetrodder

New member
I know this has been talked about before, but I wanted to clarify some things. I have a '46 flathead with regular crab distributor. It was recommended to use AL216. After checking at local car parts stores, they didn't have that one but cross referenced and came up with Champion H12. Is that a suitable plug? If so, what should the gap be? After attending a seminar in Louisville last year, AL216 with .035 gap was recommended. Some of the posts I've seen here say that's too large a gap. Any info appreciated.
 
The wider the plug gap, the more stress on the insulation of the whole system - cap, wires, etc. Unless there's some other reason to widen the plug gap, I'd keep it around.025.
 
Ford's specification is 0.025 in. and Champion H10C, not H12.
Wider gap only helps in cold starting by creating a larger spark. But, at high RPM's it's prone to miss a spark once in a while. The Ford specified gap is best.
 
Champion H-12 is just two heat ranges above the original H-10's. It's a hotter plug. I can't believe a parts store doesn't have Autolite 216 plugs. Find another parts store. and ditch the Champions.
 
Part of my homemade head puller involves removing the innards of a couple of spark plugs and then tap it to accept all thread rods.

Champions are relatively easy to work with. Grind off the gap element, break off the porcelain stem, pull out the center conductor, and then remove the remaining porcelain using a hammer and punch.

The Autolite plugs are essentially impossible to do that process. Since I had a set of used Autolites, I started out to make another head puller using them. After a lot of time and destroying one plug, I gave up and went and bought a new set of Champions.

Will the Autolites perform better? I don't know, but they sure are a lot better built.

Tom
 
47COE said:
Part of my homemade head puller involves removing the innards of a couple of spark plugs and then tap it to accept all thread rods.

Champions are relatively easy to work with. Grind off the gap element, break off the porcelain stem, pull out the center conductor, and then remove the remaining porcelain using a hammer and punch.

The Autolite plugs are essentially impossible to do that process. Since I had a set of used Autolites, I started out to make another head puller using them. After a lot of time and destroying one plug, I gave up and went and bought a new set of Champions.

Will the Autolites perform better? I don't know, but they sure are a lot better built.

Tom
Click to expand...

Thanks Tom, I've now found a use for all the Champion spark plugs I've dumped in the trash... ;) LOL :D In my experience, Autolite 216's are far superior to anything comparable that Champion makes...
 
Even though the black base of the Autolites is not really authentic (the Champions are silver) I like the looks of them better and use them instead of the Champions now.
 
I was taught plug gap wide for smooth idle and narrow for speed . As a general rule the factory specs give the best of both worlds . I have had great success with champion plugs but not modern ones - In my Model T , Model A and 1934 V8 I run NOS original Champions with no problems .
 
Champions have always been a problem , I worked for Chrysler 40 years ago, and due to fowling champions, many time people were told they had other problems, I cured them by replacing the plugs with Autolite ,hard winter starting was the main complaint and low power on pulling, The same thing happened a few months back ,a new set of plugs solved the problem, tossed the low milege champions . I have a few champion plugs still in the wrappers and there they probably will stay!
 
I have a 1947 59AB engine with 12 volt system and crab dizzy using standard points set-up and Blue Flame coil. H-10 Champ are stock but for whatever reason the car came to me with H-11's and I am still running them to this date. It does not burn oil. I once tried the Autolite 216's but did not think in regard to my car that they worked as well as the Champ H-11's. Others swear by the Autolite 216's.

Regardless, spec gap is 0.025 and after having Bubba and Charlle NY work on my crabs (carry spare in truck) they say to use 0.025 gap so I stay with that.
 
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