another pertronix bites the dust

Y-Blockhead said:
For what it's worth... "the new and improved petronix has proven itself to be like the rest of chinese parts" are Hecho en USA.:eek::eek:

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FYI, if using a Ignitor III Pertronix recommends "Removal of the Ballast Resistor for Optimum Performance." Looking at the trouble shooting section it appears most problems are caused by a "Low Voltage Problem".

I have never had a Ignitor problem except for the one I burned up by leaving the ignition on while adjusting my charging system Low Voltage Alarm. I should have pulled they ignition system fuse but didn't and I blame myself for the ignitor failure.
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Yes, Made in the USA from a lot of different parts from different suppliers. I have a hunch maybe at least one of those suppliers is China. You know darn well to make money, Petronix is taking some low bids, and China is the king of cheap.
 
scicala said:
Yes, Made in the USA from a lot of different parts from different suppliers. I have a hunch maybe at least one of those suppliers is China. You know darn well to make money, Petronix is taking some low bids, and China is the king of cheap.
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Can't argue with you there, but that pertains to every other Ignition Manufacturer or Part Supplier out there. In fact I bought some Craftsmen wrenches the other day that were "Hecho en China".

Let's face it, We're selling ourselves out and the Chinese are buying cheap. We buy their junk and they buy our land and businesses.

frank long island said:
maybe they mean the box:)
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Haha, Frank, That actually occurred to me. :cool:
 
Y-Blockhead said:
Can't argue with you there, but that pertains to every other Ignition Manufacturer or Part Supplier out there. In fact I bought some Craftsmen wrenches the other day that were "Hecho en China".

Let's face it, We're selling ourselves out and the Chinese are buying cheap. We buy their junk and they buy our land and businesses.



Haha, Frank, That actually occurred to me. :cool:
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Y-Blockhead, I'm afraid things have changed almost beyond reversing and we have to get used to the way it is. I'm very old school and it's killing me. :mad:
 
scicala said:
Y-Blockhead, I'm afraid things have changed almost beyond reversing and we have to get used to the way it is. I'm very old school and it's killing me. :mad:
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I'm with you, it's killing me too. Those Craftsman wrenches about did me in. Young salesperson "But they're built to the same quality and high standards as all Craftsman tools." :eek::eek:
 
Y-Blockhead said:
I'm with you, it's killing me too. Those Craftsman wrenches about did me in. Young salesperson "But they're built to the same quality and high standards as all Craftsman tools." :eek::eek:
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This is OT but have to chime in. I bought an ACE brand 3/8 inch ratchet, knowing it wasnt going to be great, but within 30 days virtually no socket would stay put without falling off and rolling under the car:(. After a year of frustration returned it, and by then the hardware store had changed to Craftsman. The new Craftsman wasnt much better than Harbor Freight wares.
I've decided that some of my 1930s and 40s tools are better than the current stuff.
 
Look at the resistor, I have had this problem with my 78 F150 and you can crank until the starter starts to smoke and nothing, let go of the key and it tries to start sometimes with a sigh. Go to the salvage yard and dig into the wire harness for a pink wire, it will plug in at the ign switch and you will have to unwrap or with a box knife slice the wrap. Otherwise you can buy a ceramic resistor at the auto store and wire into your ign circuit.
 
I dont know. I have an Ignitor or Ignitor II. I know its not the III. Two years on my old 292 with Ballast resistor and an AutoZone coil. Not ONE problem. I plan on putting it in my new 292
 
Guys i hate to see this one pop up again..

Here are some facts that may help everyone.

If a module fails or cooks ( you can smell a fryed one) 99 % of the time it was caused by the same problem " HEAT" and heat comes from only one place in the primary ignition system.
Heat comes from incorrect resistance in the primary ignition and is usually a incorrect ignition coil!!
My suggestion would to use a 1.5 ohm coil and a 1.5 ohm ballast resisitor to divide the wattage and heat...
My last two customers with a problem bought the incorrect coil ( from summitt or someone) that was electronic rated and had a very low resistance at the request of a tech line somewhere.......

Another tip: spark plug gap goes with engine design NOT the ignition system.
 
put the points and condenser in today cranked it pumped up the carb and boom she's running again I guess with this if it's not broke don't fix it
 
I have had pertronix ignition and coil in my'55 pickup for almost 9 years .,it is a 12 volt system .I don't drive the truck much and it always started right up with a pump or two of the gas pedal .I had a few questions before I installed it and I called the 800 #and my questions were answered and in about an hour I had it up and running.I really like the set up .Jmo .I finally got around to installing some Chinese 9 super 7 carbs on my "Rickshaw"(as it was called buy a person on this site ) and like them also."Nine out of ten Chinese hot rodders can't be wrong ." :cool:
 
I ran a pertronix in my wagon for 3 yrs with an off the shelf coil no problems maybe just bad luck gonna run points for now when its on the road may try that route again now trying to dial in the weber carbs choke its getting colder here gonna need it
 
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