another frozen bolt dilemma

40cpe

40cpe

Well-known member
I think I have probably read every thread on removing twisted/rusted/frozen bolts but I still don't have a solution. I have the inner bolt of the water pump on an 8BA style block twisted off with about a 16th of an inch sticking out of the block. I heated the broken stub, welded a nut on it once and it twisted off just below the weld. Then I welded a washer on the stud and a nut on the washer, twisted off just below the weld. I have about a thread sticking out now and want to use the best technique to assure removal before I twist that off, too. Since it twists off so easily I thought it might be a soft bolt.

I don't want to have to resort to drilling it out because of risking an off center hole and ruining the threads. What method has worked for you?
 
I would suggest that drilling may be your only but best option. Being a Model B owner I am not familiar with V8 engines. Are you able to make up a jig that would enable you to drill accurately through the stud ?
 
40cpe, yr going to have to drill it out, but don't panic, its hard to screw up the block. If you damage the existing thread, you can install a helicoil anyway.

Grind the stub of the bolt nice and flat. Then you can centre punch the face of it. Take your time here, you need the mark as near to centre as you can. This is the most important bit. Then drill on the punch mark with a small drill, say 1/8" with speed of drill set on fast. Again, do this carefully, checking as you go that you are in centre of stud. Don't break small drill in bolt, and go in to the depth of the stud. Go up to 3/16th and re-drill. Keep going up sizes till you are at core diameter of bolt. and you must drill to bottom of bolt. When you are at core diameter, remainder of bolt will be loose, and you should be able to pick it out. If you cant, go up in smallest increments of drill till it is loose. You need to clean out hole with a pick, then pass a tap down it.

Good luck, Tom.
 
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Get one of the reverse twist drill bits, drill out with this type bit, if it does get a bite it will help break threads loose. If the bit does not remove bolt, next use the largest EZ out that you can safely get in bolt, tighten up a little and tap with a hammer, keep bolt in a bind, it will come out.
 
The hole for the bolt is 3/4" deep, I don't know how long the bolt is. I could probably get a small hole in OK, but a diameter approaching thread size would be iffy. I don't have any idea about fabbing a jig without some instruction. I have the engine a stand, so access isn't a problem.
 
Yes, yes, yes. Use a center drill after punching the center. It will be well worth the wait if you don't have one on hand. Wouldn't hurt to use some sort of jig to assure yourself you are drilling parallel to the centerline of the stud. And consider using some sort of cutting oil.
 
Gene, I've drilled them out on 8BA blocks before, I've also done the weld route. None are fun but you will get it out. I like the reverse drill bit suggestion, I'd give that a try.
 
Stainless bolt or new bolt with #2 Permatex all over the end and threads when you put it back together.
 
Try 7018 lh rod --put washer --hammer bolt like a nail--do this a couple times then add nut hammer again do this a couple times let cool hit it again it will come out !
 
Sorry, Bruce...
DO NOT EVER USE AN EASY OUT. Unless you can get to the back of it to punch out the broken parts...
Tom Walker has the program I use, and I've done LOTS of them this way. I wouldn't use a guide... Change the angle of the drill to stay on center...

Center punch, small drill to pilot hole, then larger. This is a 3/8" bolt you're drilling out, if you've done your hole perfectly you'll use one size smaller than a 5/16 bit as last . This should leave you with a remnant of the old bolt which you should be able to remove with a selection of punch and picks. I use a straight round punch that is smaller around than the hole, sharpened on a slant so to use as a chisel on one side then other...

This hardly ever works out perfectly, there are many little tricks to getting the last bits out... Resist the temptation to use a tap to remove the bolt parts, as this will guide the tap off center....

Contact me with questions if you wish- leave a phone number, I'll phone you.

Karl
 
The weld route will get them no matter what you broke off in it as long as it isnt in the threads------------lh rod and hammer most important !
 
I have had a lot of success by heating the nut or bolt to a dark red and putting candle wax against the threads or near the threads. The wax runs down between the threads and acts as a lubricant. This is best done before you break off the bolt or stud, but you could do it before you weld on a nut or washer and nut. Rapping on the bolt or nut helps to break loose the rust bond also. ATF and acetone mixed 50 - 50 works great also.
 
I would do it like the head stud remnant I removed recently. Soak with 50/50 acetone for a while. Then drill down through the core of the bolt smaller than core diameter. Then fill the bolt with weld, weld on a washer, weld on a nut. Hammer on it some, and then try winding it IN with an impact wrench, then out, then keep repeating until it comes out.

Mart.
 
That is a 3/8-16 bolt going into a blind hole 3/4 in. deep. After you have center punched and drilled the 1/8 in dia. pilot hole, use a 3/16 in. dia. drill to enlarge the hole. Then use a propane torch to heat the broken bolt till it's red hot. Let it cool, then heat it up again and let it cool down. Apply liquid wrench. Then take a file with a small enough tang and hammer it firmly into the hole and see if you can twist the bolt out.
I have also used a cut off allen wrench. If the bolt doesn't move drill with a 1/4 in drill and try again. If that doesn't work, use your "Letter" drill bits and keep redrilling the hole up to a Letter "M" drill (.302) which is just shy of 5/16. At that point you will be able to pick out the threads.
If you happen to drill through the bottom of the bolt hole you will hit water.
 
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V12Bill said:
I have had a lot of success by heating the nut or bolt to a dark red and putting candle wax against the threads or near the threads. The wax runs down between the threads and acts as a lubricant. This is best done before you break off the bolt or stud, but you could do it before you weld on a nut or washer and nut. Rapping on the bolt or nut helps to break loose the rust bond also. ATF and acetone mixed 50 - 50 works great also.
Click to expand...

X2 ! I was taught pretty much same process by an old timer...before I was an old timer:) He used the word 'quenching' for part of process.
 
Use a center punch, then start with maybe an 1/8th inch drill and go from there. I have done many that way. Worse that could happen, if you mess up the threads, you can always use a Helicoil.
 
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