Another Flathead Question

gmanrides

gmanrides

Senior Member
I tried to add to a previous post I had but the replies were not what I was hoping for. So I figured I better just start a new one. I do appreciate the responses though.
Well it has been awhile since my last post but the saga continues and not to be defeated the search and destroy has carried on. The Merc block was trashed the bottom end looked like a road map with all the cracks in it. On another post I had swapped a SBC for a Canadian 221 engine with stock bore. Not sure what I will do with that engine yet, probably sell it but my buddy that had it also had a pallet with a partially disassembled 8BA series and a bunch of extra parts. I had that blocked checked and no cracks but needs bored,still has the stock bore. So I had my Merc 4" crank tuirned 10-10 I am thinking of a .125 bore, new Egge three ring pistons using either the Merc or Ford rods that I have. While I was comparing the two sets of rods and pistons I noticed no difference between the two. The rods were the same and pistons the same no difference in pin location. I will say it was obvious that the Ford block had been into before due to different style pistons in it adjustable lifters. I never checked the stroke but I may need to check that crank. I did look at the clean out plug and it was smaller than the Merc plug. Anyway I am thinking of using the Merc cam with this set up and decide on head's and intake/carbs later. I am not planning on porting, relieving the block or bigger valves either. Just trying to keep cost down and still end up with a good dependable streetable flathead. Any thoughts before machine work begins? Thanks
 
If your goal is to build a nice dependable flatty and keep costs down just bore the block the minimum amount and use stock 4 ring pistons, stock rods and valves with adjustable lifters along with a 390 Holley carb and electronic distributor. Yes, use the Merc cam. Boring your engine .125 without doing other "trick"modifications is a waste of money. Plus, you will reduce the potential for cooling problems. Before you start doing anything, write down on paper a plan on what you really want along with the actual cost. You can easily spend $6K on engine, labor and parts and wonder, "What happened?' So, do your homework and ask plenty of questions. Then carefully digest the answers. Bragging rights and big cubes cost $$$. Would you have known by just looking that all the internals of this 239 cu. in. 8BA are stock except for adjustable lifters?
 

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Something doesn't sound correct. There is a difference between the 4 inch crank pistons and the 3 3/4 inch crank pistons. There has to be a difference in ether the rods or the piston pin location. Also, there really isn't any difference between a Ford or a Merc block, the difference is the crank, pistons and cam (internal) and heads, etc. exterior. Thought I read on an earlier post that the cleanouts were not correct of the crank to be a 4 inch.
 
safest way to determine stroke is to build a simple cradle ( i made one out of wood) and measure the stroke yourself. as mentioned above, merc and ford pistons have a different pin location but use the same length rods.
 
19Fordy that engine sure is pretty. Since the block needs boring and it cost the same I thought why not. With that being said I got to wondering how much more that would entail. I really wanted to run a couple of dueces but have also read about the driveability and successes of the 4bbl. I just like the look of the multi-carbs. I also would like to use what I already have available instead of buying more parts.
JSeery, Sorry for the confusion, I have a 4" crank from another engine I bought but the block was junk. The other engine I picked up I never checked the stroke just tore it the rest of the way down to have the block checked. I had the 4" crank turned 10-10 because I was going to use it. I never really paid any attention to the crank that came out of the Ford block because I already decided to use the Merc crank. I questioned that crank because both sets of rods and pistons seem identical. I then looked at the crank that came out of the ford block and noticed the clean out plug was smaller than that of the Merc crank. I did not check it any further than that.
 
gmanrides, go back and edit your profile, add the city and state your in so if some one wants to help you with any thing they will know if the are close enough to help
 
The rods should be the same. Go back and check the pin location measurements. There's only a 1/8" difference in pin location between Ford and Merc pistons......easy to miss......maybe! DD
 
If you are boring it, don't worry about your old pistons, just make sure you buy them for a 4" stroke
 
Follow the advice of WestCoast.
Also, just because you can bore .125 regardless of price, doesn't mean you should.
Layout a plan and follow it. And make sure you keep track of every penny you spend.
It's a sobering and enlightening experience.
 
gmanrides said:
Thanks guys, I'll take a closer look at the parts.
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Take the pin lock out of one piston, push the pin out about 1/4in. stick the pin in the other piston, with the 2 pistons side by side you'll see the Merc piston head is 1/8in. lower that the Ford piston. I like the 276 engine, if you got to bore I'd go.125 to 3-5/16, use the merc pistons 4 ring, there cheaper than the 3 ring and the 3 ring piston causes the crank to have to be balanced a lot more than the 4 ring. I balance all my engines but you probably can get away with out it with the 4 ring piston. Use the Merc cam. 4 bbl carbs are nice but I think 2 carb look better and you can find a couple of 94's and rebuild them your self, I'd start out with 49 jets and 4.5 power valves. Find a set of EAB heads 52-53 Ford. thay have smaller chambers. Clay the heads, mill to get .045 - .050 clearance over the pistons. That will make you a nice little engine with out braking the bank. Walt
 
Fordy, I am trying not to keep track of what I spend it would probably scare me. :D I do have a general idea but some of my costs are due to a learning curve. On the bright side I have acquired a lot of extra parts.
Binx, thanks for the recipe I saved it for future reference.
Walt, I like your thinking but I am considering the .060 bore just in case I have to go through this again I'll still have some meat to work with and won't have to search out another block. As far as the EAB heads I prefer the aluminum finned look. Maybe I could use the early Navarro's I have and if not find a suitable set. Thanks again guys.
 
I went with .060 bore for the same reason why take it out to max bore if your not racing, you can alway go bigger, harder to put metal back on.
 
gmanrides said:
Fordy, I am trying not to keep track of what I spend it would probably scare me. :D I do have a general idea but some of my costs are due to a learning curve.
Click to expand...
I agree, I'm not doing this as a business or to make money, I do it for fun and as a hobby. I have a general idea of what I spend but so what? I don't know many people who track their leisure expenses to the penny. I enjoy working on my truck and wouldn't enjoy it as much if I was wringing my hands over every nickel I spent. I also don't have a timetable nor do I have an unlimited budget. As I get a little extra money I buy some parts. If I don't have the funds the truck waits a month or so. I've had it four years, probably have around $12 k in it so far and I think I'm about 3/4 done.
 
Look for a set of EAB heads, fit them with .045/050" pison to head clearance. Best bang for the buck.
 
You may be fortunate enogh to have a Canadian Merc. crank with the smaller sludge trap bores , do as walt says and keep us posted.
 
Well I ordered some parts today and hopefully I will see them Wed. or Thursday. I was looking through some of the stuff today and out of the 4 cams I have 1 is 8CM, 1 EA, 1 8B and one still to be determined. LoL
 
Hmmm. 8CM is my favorite that I've been looking for. As well with the others, if you plan to use them, check to see that the journal diameter is 1.796-1.797 to maintain oil pressure.

Lonnie
 
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