Anemic starter

I remember seeing an ad for making the line duty connection to the sw terminal “button” a proper connection, but don’t remember where, or how it was designed?
 
I was kind of suspecting that's what was going on.Just bending that strip will not be enough pressure to keep it making contact for long.I also suspect that tightening the battery cable on there spun the strip enough to contact the side of the switch,and when the power is put to it the juice is just arcing and bleeding off to ground,heating things up,with some going down to the starter.I know guys would carve up a piece of wood to hold the strip down to the contact,but that was still on borrowed time.If it's not a bolted commection,it's days are numbered.
 
The foot starter worked fine, but I found I needed a double articulated ankle to operate it. Concerns about defects inside the switch are certainly valid, but the jumper cable got hot even when connected directly to the bare button. Unfortunately my new starter was a 12v, mislabeled on the box. 6v with stud connection is on its way. Will keep you posted,
 
A lot of modern jumper cables are barely adequate for 12-volt use so 6-volt use is usually problematic unless they are custom made jumpers with heavy welding cables and good quality heavy duty cable clamps.
 
You say it was working good before you worked on it.I really doubt the starter decided to go bad at the exact time you were working on it.Shotgunning parts at it,(battery,starter,etc)isn't the answer.If you checked all your connections,cables and switch 5 times,you need to check them 6.Something you touched is a little off,even if it all looks perfect.
 
Keith True said:
You say it was working good before you worked on it.I really doubt the starter decided to go bad at the exact time you were working on it.Shotgunning parts at it,(battery,starter,etc)isn't the answer.If you checked all your connections,cables and switch 5 times,you need to check them 6.Something you touched is a little off,even if it all looks perfect.
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I agree 100%, but in re-assembling the starter I frayed some of the wires to the brushes such that they are not in perfect orientation. At this point I will take easy way out, and replace the starter. The jumper cables are good quality ones that I carry in my truck--not Walmart junk--but I'm sure they aren't size 00.
 
UPDATE installed new solenoid today and checked voltage at all connections, and all was as intended. Received rebuilt starter , and when attaching auxiliary fuse in the switch screw holes I noticed that the screws became tight when about half-way in. The original screws are only about 1/4" long, but when adding the fuse I changed the screws to 1/2" long. Is it possible that those screws were too long and made fatal contact with something inside the starter? With the new starter I immediately removed the long screw and reused the short ones. Started right up as if I had never fiddled with it in the first place.
 
Looks like you found it.When something shows up out of the blue,just after you fiddled with it,you can pretty much count on it being something you did.You may have jacked the pole shoe in a little,causing it to rub on the armature,and most likely will relax now that the jack screw has been removed.Then again,you may have drilled a hole in the field windings,and that's pretty much fatal to the fields.I don't have a starter housing handy to see what lines up with the screw holes,the shoe or the windings.
 
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