Ampere meter reading

D

dstoverud

Junior Member
I am wondering why, as I drive my '30 stock A, that my amp meter shows about 9-10 amps positive. When I turn on the lights, it drops to about -10. Is this normal?
For winter storage here in Montana, should I take the battery out, or just disconnect under the hood?

Thanks
 
9-10 amps sounds a little high especially if you don't drive much at night. The real test is if you have to add much water to the battery or it shows signs of acid coming out the vents. Going to negative amps with the lights on is normal. For the winter I would put the battery on a smart trickle charger like a battery tender that only puts out 1/4 amp and then turns of when fully charged. You can do that right in the car. If you don't want to do that I would take the battery out and put it someplace at least above freezing for the winter. The main thing is to not let it get too far discharged.
 
It's normal to have a discharge with the lights on, although it seems high for original bulbs, normal for seal beams or 50 cp bulbs
A fully charged battery lasts longer if it is stored cold
 
These monsters do not have a regulated charging system. The charge rate is set thru a movable brush, easy to do.
9-10 amps is kinda high unless most of your driving is at night.
If the system is not charging, like at idle, then a -10 amp discharge for the headlights is about right [depending on the CP of the bulbs].
We're in a cold part of the country and I do not remove batteries. I would disconnect it if there isn't a main disconnect. I slow charge them before storage and again before start up in the spring. If you are near the car during the winter then a charge once or twice during the winter would be fine.
 
ha! Just like what kind of oil to use or whether to use antifreeze or not, here is another one that gets different responses. I have had my car for over 8 years, and other vehicles stored in winter months here in Pennsylvania.

I do not have trickle chargers as it bothers me to have an electrical device hooked up all the time. So I have a disconnect on the battery, and start and run the cars about every three -five weeks. Just run them in and out of the garage a bit, but not in the salted streets. If I can't do that because of high snow, I put a regular charger on the battery for an hour or two.

Batteries are always ready to go in the Spring and I have had good luck.

JackD
 
I was wondering the same thing....Mine also reads 8-10 amps during the day when charging, but goes to zero with all the lights on, while going down the road...and drops to negative 5-7 when not moving, but at idle...so thats normal then?
 
hangarb7 said:
Just run them in and out of the garage a bit,
JackD
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Nothing to do with the battery but IMO that is one of the worst things you can do to your car unless you are ensuring it is getting hot enough to burn off any condensation in the engine and exhaust system.
 
Y-Blockhead said:
Nothing to do with the battery but IMO that is one of the worst things you can do to your car unless you are ensuring it is getting hot enough to burn off any condensation in the engine and exhaust system.
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I agree, nothing sludges up oil faster than multiple starts with inadequate warm up. I never start one of our old ones unless it is going to get good and hot.
 
runnin hot said:
I was wondering the same thing....Mine also reads 8-10 amps during the day when charging, but goes to zero with all the lights on, while going down the road...and drops to negative 5-7 when not moving, but at idle...so thats normal then?
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Your's is completely normal for an unregulated generator. But if I didn't have an electronic voltage regulator in my generator I would cut the amps back to only 2 or 3, then move it up for night drives. Almost no one will bother moving the adjustable brush to accommodate driving conditions, so an EVR in the generator is the best choice for the life of the battery, as well as not pulling extra power from the engine.
 
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