Ammeter - charge/discharge

Purdy Swoft said:
Actually there are three voltage regulators available for the model A type generator. I use the Fun Projects can style voltage regulator. The Fun Projects regulator fits in place of the cutout and no modifications to the generator is necessary. The regulator looks like the early style cut out but functions like a modern voltage regulator. Fun Projects has a web site. I have used the Fun Projects regulators for years with good service. Try fun projects . com
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1) There is Tom's;

2) James Peterson in the band
P.O. Box 912
Bend, Oregon 97709
541-389-0438 home

3) Fun Projects
 
Mine charges 20 amps at higher speeds and I have no problem. I was initially concerned about this until I read that Tom Andrews recommends the generator be set at 10 amps charge at idle. I do admit for long drives I turn on the headlights if I remember.
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Bill Worden
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I'm going to disagree with you, but, thats OK. You can run your car as you like. A normal 'A' should be set to charge about 3-4 amps at cruise speeds if the lights are not used much. And at 10-12 amps if run at night quite a bit. 20 amps is very hard on these generators, but, again, its your car.
 
Diode cutouts are available that will allow for 20 amp charge, thats if the third brush is pushed all the way down. When useing a diode cutout, I set the third brush as I would if using a cut out. A diode cutout doesn't give voltage regulation, it only allows the generator to charge at the rate that the third brush is set for. In other words if the third brush is set for an 8 amp charge, the amps will increase with rpm until it reaches 8 amps and will remain at that rate unless the rpm drops or more electrical demand is placed on the system. The advantage of a diode cutout is that there are no points to stick and they can be very reliable. Brattons offers a six dollar diode that can easily be installed in an old burned out cutout housing. Snyders has a diode for just over two dollars. they are both different but work equally well. I've used both and you just need a soldering gun and some rosin core solder, instructions included.
 
If you show a charge while running and it slams down to -20A when you turn the lights on you have a short to ground in the headlamp wiring. No alternator or voltage regulator will fix that.

Resist the urge to throw new parts at it. Fix the problem, not the symptom.
 
MikeK said:
If you show a charge while running and it slams down to -20A when you turn the lights on you have a short to ground in the headlamp wiring. No alternator or voltage regulator will fix that.

Resist the urge to throw new parts at it. Fix the problem, not the symptom.
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Thank you for your reply MikeK

Ok, will check the headlamp wiring out - just wanted to add that the ammeter also slams down to -20 when I apply the brakes as well.
 
A TRUCK said:
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Thank you for your reply MikeK

Ok, will check the headlamp wiring out - just wanted to add that the ammeter also slams down to -20 when I apply the brakes as well.
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This is not a good sign. It is not normal. However, it might be an indication of a bad ammeter (reporting much higher current is flowing than is actually flowing).

You would want to compare it to a known good ammeter to rule that out. then start looking for sources of excessive current draw.
 
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