Craig CT
Senior Member
Hi Mart; I was laughing out loud when I read this, thanks, Craig.
Amazing new stud extractor
- Thread starter KiWinUS
- Start date
KiWinUS
Well-known member
LOL I’m with you Mart.
Use gas cutting torch have it set just like you going to cut 1/4inch thick steel.
Drill 1/8th hole all way through broken stud in block. Now take gas torch heat broken stud until it’s very red then pull lever & blow molten metal through into water jacket. Careful blow all of remaining stud out. You will see it does not even heat threads in block up. Clean hole with “real” thread chaser.
I have seen way more heat put into block& threads by people trying to free studs.
Good luck.
Cheers
Tony
itslow
Well-known member
They're also sold by Jegs, Amazon, and other retailers.
Mart
Well-known member
The one being discussed here, is a chuck type. It's like a self tightening chuck that only works in the undoing direction.
The roller type is a different type. I have a roller one here that is for 5/16 studs. It was used at the factory for putting studs in the A series mini engines.
Mart.
The roller type is a different type. I have a roller one here that is for 5/16 studs. It was used at the factory for putting studs in the A series mini engines.
Mart.
KiWinUS
Well-known member
Totally correct Mart. I have never seen the roller style you can use an impact on. They self destruct with an impact. This chuck style can be used with an impact.
Oooh Mart why did you have to remind me of your wonderful British motor cars. Like most every thing on the minis to change a lower radiator hose is pure fun. I worked on all those Austin’s & Morris creations in the early 70’s from minis to big dump trucks. An the same garage I also maintained a fleet of 41-47 Ford US pickups. Quite diverse.
deuce5wndw
Well-known member
Kiwi I have a Mac impact and they are amazing aren't they? Crush sleeve on a one ton rearend no problem, rusted off cotter pin on perch pins no problem just brings it right off!
NealinCA
Well-known member
Bringing this back up, as I purchased one of these back in 2021 when this came up the first time. I finally had a chance to use it yesterday, as I needed to pull the short studs on a 59A in order to put tall Edelbrock heads on. I was able to pull the lower studs, plus 3 for an offset generator mount in about 30 minutes, and no broken studs. I was very impressed. Thanks for the recommendation.
Neal
Neal
Neal,
I agree. This tool and the heat induction tools (like the Bolt Buster) are game changers for us in the old car hobby.
The Liberator
Junior Member
Looks like a good tool, almost looks like the extractor that has the sprag bearing design.
OldGold360
Well-known member
I removed the studs from my ‘36 LB today and the first 41 came out no problem, but that last one decided to break. Why does it seem like it’s always the last one that gives us problems… or is it just me?
Zeke3
Well-known member
Nah, I removed the studs from my 37 21 stud engine, the first 40 came out okay, but #41 got me. I was able to finally get the remainder out recently. I should have followed my son’s advice, “let the machine shop remove it.”
If I had to do it over again, I would go right to welding a large flat washer and a nut on the broken stud.
If I had to do it over again, I would go right to welding a large flat washer and a nut on the broken stud.
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rotorwrench
Well-known member
It looks like a collet type. My old Snap On set is a bit longer to give a good taper length to the collets. I've pulled and installed many a stud successfully with that set. The old Snappy stuff came in metal boxes. I don't know if they still make them or not.
Bored&Stroked
Well-known member
I just used my Bolt Buster and a special Kent Moore collet type stud remover on a newly found 1941/42 "keystone" block. I removed all 48 studs in less than 2 hours - with zero broken ones. See the link below to a video of the collet being used. The collet tool is super heavy duty - purchased it when my buddy's machine shop shutdown a couple years ago.
Here is the video on IG:
https://www.instagram.com/p/DbKHiKXt-5W/
The Block: 1941/42 239 Keystone, Truck or WWII vintage.
This is the best keystone block I've seen in 50+ years - almost as good as the NOS one I have in my 32 cabriolet. I've only found 2 good ones in all these years!
Here is the video on IG:
https://www.instagram.com/p/DbKHiKXt-5W/
The Block: 1941/42 239 Keystone, Truck or WWII vintage.
This is the best keystone block I've seen in 50+ years - almost as good as the NOS one I have in my 32 cabriolet. I've only found 2 good ones in all these years!
rockfla
Well-known member
On the Broken Stud & Easy-Out front, my main machinist taught me his tried and true method and preference of type of easy out.
1st Mayhew Square Easy Outs
The reason for this is He uses a tap handle as you can apply more "even"
steady straight pressure when applied to the square easy-out where a wrench is more one-sided. ALSO with the square easy out & tap handle, you can get down close to the surface of the block (as Tony as also pointed out/get down down down as close to the block as possible).
3rd when drilling the broken stud ALWAYS be sure and drill all the way through the stud, the hollow center helps relieve tension in the stud.
1st Mayhew Square Easy Outs
The reason for this is He uses a tap handle as you can apply more "even"
steady straight pressure when applied to the square easy-out where a wrench is more one-sided. ALSO with the square easy out & tap handle, you can get down close to the surface of the block (as Tony as also pointed out/get down down down as close to the block as possible).
3rd when drilling the broken stud ALWAYS be sure and drill all the way through the stud, the hollow center helps relieve tension in the stud.
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Robert,
I've recently used these and agree they are a much better design than the spiral ones. Broke the the dog bolt off a Kohler 15 hp motor. It was 1/2 down the crank in the blind hole. Made a bushing, drilled the bolt to the size recommended for the extractor and walked the bolt out. I was sold.
Flathead Fever
Well-known member
Around 30-yeras ago I a talked to a very respectable guy that raced flatheads and rebuilt flatheads for people and he recommended a tool that Snap-On made where you buy the threaded adapter that fits the stud you're trying to take out, then buy the tool that goes on the threaded adapter and tightened it up. I set the impact on the lowest setting and just gently let it "lightly" hammer away on it until it loosens the stud. It works really well. I've taken apart around 24 flatheads since then and I maybe broke one stud on each engine. I wouldn't blame that broken stud on the stud puller I'd blame it on 75 plus years of rust. For the ones that break I weld a nut to the broken stud, let it cool and then it usually comes right out. Whatever you do don't force it, if it doesn't feel like it's going to move let the impact gently hammer on it some more until it finally let's go. Sometimes it takes a couple of days to gently get the studs out. I do have to admit I have one junk engine with Edelbrock aluminum heads I have been gently trying to get the heads off for about 20-years. I don't think that one is going to be savable.
These are two separate pieces you buy from Snap-On, the one with the thread on the left and then the puller which goes over it on the right. Then you tightened it up with two wrenches on the stud. Then gently and I mean gently let the impact lightly hammer on the stud until it starts to turn. That impact is easily capable of snapping those studs, we just want to gently hammer on them until they come loose.
These are two separate pieces you buy from Snap-On, the one with the thread on the left and then the puller which goes over it on the right. Then you tightened it up with two wrenches on the stud. Then gently and I mean gently let the impact lightly hammer on the stud until it starts to turn. That impact is easily capable of snapping those studs, we just want to gently hammer on them until they come loose.
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Mac VP
Well-known member
Will and I recently removed the studs from a core block…..actually two of them. There were a couple studs that were already snapped off. The studs that were still intact were given the electric induction heater treatment. They ALL came loose after a couple minutes each with this tool. I would never again attempt to remove a block stud without using this tool. You all know how disappointing it is to carefully try to unscrew a stud and feel it break off. I’m a firm believer in this induction method.