Am I screwed? Pun intended. And introduction.

AZMerc39

AZMerc39

Member
Good afternoon y'all.

My name is Ken, I'm 29. I live in Southern Arizona, I'm a US Air Force vet, and last Friday I acquired a 39 Mercury sedan that I am hoping to resto-mod to a street rod. I do plan to make this usable as a daily should I want to use it as such.

Now, it didn't not come with the key so the steering column is locked. From reading on here, I can remove my passenger lock tumbler, get the code, and sent it to 32phil to have one made. My question is, is my screw already broken or am I missing something? I looked at it today to remove the tumbler and this is what I found. Any help is appreciated. I know I'll be relying on y'all a lot as this project moves forward. I'll post picures in a second post as to not crowd this one.
 

Attachments

  • 20250626_134635.jpg
    20250626_134635.jpg
    30 KB · Views: 414
not necessarily so. Most often locks have been changed. Its not real hard to remove the lock. Check the forum back msgs for how. It involves drilling, taping a pin and pulling the pin out to release the lock tumbler. If your Merc is in fairly good shape, its a rare car, worth more original than modified.
 
AZMerc39 said:
Good afternoon y'all.

My name is Ken, I'm 29. I live in Southern Arizona, I'm a US Air Force vet, and last Friday I acquired a 39 Mercury sedan that I am hoping to resto-mod to a street rod. I do plan to make this usable as a daily should I want to use it as such.

Now, it didn't not come with the key so the steering column is locked. From reading on here, I can remove my passenger lock tumbler, get the code, and sent it to 32phil to have one made. My question is, is my screw already broken or am I missing something? I looked at it today to remove the tumbler and this is what I found. Any help is appreciated. I know I'll be relying on y'all a lot as this project moves forward. I'll post picures in a second post as to not crowd this one.
Click to expand...
568853
 
jimTN said:
not necessarily so. Most often locks have been changed. Its not real hard to remove the lock. Check the forum back msgs for how. It involves drilling, taping a pin and pulling the pin out to release the lock tumbler. If your Merc is in fairly good shape, its a rare car, worth more original than modified.
Click to expand...

32phil does great work. That being said, When you drill the pin if you go too deep you can destroy the lock cylinder. There are NOS cylinders with keys on some sites and also on Ebay. There is a seller on Ebay that has 3 of them and the price is only about $40 which is VERY reasonable. Go for new IMHO.
 
Good afternoon Ken, Thank you for your service, and welcome to the Ford Barn. It appears that you have done your homework, which makes our job easier! To be clear, the previous answers refer to the removal of the ignition lock, rather than the door lock, which as usual, has proven extremely difficult, the ignition locks much easier to deal with. Ignition lock keys often bend or break due to locking while steering is under tension. You'll find detailed instruction including pictures on this Forum.
 
34fordy said:
32phil does great work. That being said, When you drill the pin if you go too deep you can destroy the lock cylinder. There are NOS cylinders with keys on some sites and also on Ebay. There is a seller on Ebay that has 3 of them and the price is only about $40 which is VERY reasonable. Go for new IMHO.
Click to expand...

I was dealing with "old man's disease" and did not read the original post very well. That little screw for the door lock cylinder can be tough as they get rusted in often. Can be difficult to drill straight too. Patience can be the "key" (pun intended). Wish you a little luck too!
 
jimTN said:
not necessarily so. Most often locks have been changed. Its not real hard to remove the lock. Check the forum back msgs for how. It involves drilling, taping a pin and pulling the pin out to release the lock tumbler. If your Merc is in fairly good shape, its a rare car, worth more original than modified.
Click to expand...

I see. I thought the door lock was only a set screw to remove. I guess I am wrong!
 
34fordy said:
I was dealing with "old man's disease" and did not read the original post very well. That little screw for the door lock cylinder can be tough as they get rusted in often. Can be difficult to drill straight too. Patience can be the "key" (pun intended). Wish you a little luck too!
Click to expand...

No worries. I did go ahead and buy a NOS ignition switch before I learned about the door code, but then I got stuck figuring out which screw removed it. The hole in the pic is where I assumed the screw would be since it lines up with tumbler, but I could be mistaken.
 
ford38v8 said:
Good afternoon Ken, Thank you for your service, and welcome to the Ford Barn. It appears that you have done your homework, which makes our job easier! To be clear, the previous answers refer to the removal of the ignition lock, rather than the door lock, which as usual, has proven extremely difficult, the ignition locks much easier to deal with. Ignition lock keys often bend or break due to locking while steering is under tension. You'll find detailed instruction including pictures on this Forum.
Click to expand...

Thank you! I did see the post on how to remove the ignition lock, but was hoping it would have been easier to get the door lock out and get the code and hope it works. But I'm not entirely sure which screw it is. I did order a new ignition lock before I learned about the door code. So I'll still have that as a backup plan. I try to research what I can before asking, but I got stuck on this one since I'm not sure if I'm looking at the correct place for that screw or if was already broken.
 
AZmerc39


I'd be interested in any parts you end up ditching when you hotrod yours. I have two 39 Mercs and potentially could use parts.


Thanks
Rockfla
 

Attachments

  • 39MercCentralNatl09.jpg
    39MercCentralNatl09.jpg
    75.8 KB · Views: 218
  • 39MercCoupe122771.jpg
    39MercCoupe122771.jpg
    60.3 KB · Views: 215
The set screw in the door is originally a straight slot set screw and should be easily visible.

Your picture is a kind of dark to see.

Pretty easy to break one ear off the screw so needs to be well soaked with penetrant.

There was a post on here a while back where the poster was able to remove a broken & seized set screw with small carbide burrs in a Dremel.

Far easier to remove the column cylinder lock pin by drilling, tapping, then using a long machine screw, nut, washer, and a small socket as a puller to get the pin out.

Once out send the cylinder to 32phil to tune up the lock and make a key.
 
Hi Ken
At this point it might be best to give me a call, and I'll walk you thru some options.
I believe the picture you sent is of the door lock not the ignition.
Sooo, we should deal with one challenge at a time.
My cell 845 551 5132
 
rich b said:
The set screw in the door is originally a straight slot set screw and should be easily visible.

Your picture is a kind of dark to see.

Pretty easy to break one ear off the screw so needs to be well soaked with penetrant.

There was a post on here a while back where the poster was able to remove a broken & seized set screw with small carbide burrs in a Dremel.

Far easier to remove the column cylinder lock pin by drilling, tapping, then using a long machine screw, nut, washer, and a small socket as a puller to get the pin out.

Once out send the cylinder to 32phil to tune up the lock and make a key.
Click to expand...
Yeah, its hard to get a good photo out here sometimes. I didnt know if what I photo'd is supposed to be the screw, or if its inside of it and i just cant see it. I'll look harder to see if i can figure out exactly what i am supposed to be looking for. I dont want to get destructive unless its a last ditch resort.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top