Am I missing anything?

Dave, the yoke on this diff is not tapped, only the u joint is. Which is one reason I am using lock nuts and lock washers. It is entirely possible this got cobbled together so I may see about pulling it and replacing the yoke just to make sure things go smoothly down the road.
 
Can I replace the yoke or is it something a shop needs to do because they need to reset pinion clearances? Mike

If it were my car, I would remove that 54/55/56 yoke and put a '57 or later yoke on it because those have a built-on cover to protect the pinion from getting dirt/water/crud from coming in contact with it. Then you would need to get the rear u-joint that has the u-bolts and outer c-clips for the driveshaft.
 
Looking at Mike's pictures, it looks to me someone has replaced the rear center section and reused the original 57 yoke. I have two 57's here with that batwing style of yoke on them. One is a Ranch Wagon, 6 cyl car, the other came out of a Ranchero. Both still on the original 57 WAR case. I have seen both styles on 57's, could be early cars vs late cars.
 
I am assuming it is an early production differential but I will change it out to a 'correct' yoke just for ease of getting parts later down the line. But I will run with it for now.
 
Found I have a Frankenstein 9”. So it will need some work done to it. Like a new pinion seal and yoke. Not all that bad really. But on the up side I found I have instead of the factory 3.56 it has 3.00 gearing��.
 
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