Am I missing anything?
- Thread starter 1930artdeco
- Start date
1930artdeco
Well-known member
Of course I am missing them. They are probably unobtanium now. Any idea where to get them?
Mike
Mike
56sedandelivery
Well-known member
I assume you have a special driveshaft to go along with that.
1930artdeco
Well-known member
My drive shaft is the normal looking kind. I have u joints on both ends with the circular style clips holding it into the yoke. I don’t know if I need to replace the end with a new end or find something to bolt onto the diff face plate.
Lanny
Well-known member
First of all, get your car on a hoist if you can, OR jack it up and
put some safety blocks under it so you can get under it and see
if the drive shaft you have is has the right front on it that will fit
onto the splined shaft at the rear of your trans.
Then, if it fits onto the shaft, you should pull it out about one
inch, or even up to one and a half inch, as that is about how
much free play you want there.
Then, with the right free play at the front, lift the rear of the
drive shaft up to see if it is going to be the right length to
mate up to the rear end yoke.
If it is too long, OR too short, then you will need a different
drive shaft. If it seems to be the correct length, then you
just need to see if NAPA has, or can get you a u-joint that
will fit.
Take a picture of the picture in post # 3 above, and bring
that picture with you to the NAPA store. Maybe they can
get a u-joint with the bat wing style caps to fit 2 of the
u-joint shafts and 2 round caps it fit the other 2 u-joint
shafts.
If your drive shaft fits your ****** splined shaft and the
drive shaft seems to be the right length, then bring it
with you to NAPA and if it's your real lucky day
maybe they can fix you up with a new joint. Good Luck
.
put some safety blocks under it so you can get under it and see
if the drive shaft you have is has the right front on it that will fit
onto the splined shaft at the rear of your trans.
Then, if it fits onto the shaft, you should pull it out about one
inch, or even up to one and a half inch, as that is about how
much free play you want there.
Then, with the right free play at the front, lift the rear of the
drive shaft up to see if it is going to be the right length to
mate up to the rear end yoke.
If it is too long, OR too short, then you will need a different
drive shaft. If it seems to be the correct length, then you
just need to see if NAPA has, or can get you a u-joint that
will fit.
Take a picture of the picture in post # 3 above, and bring
that picture with you to the NAPA store. Maybe they can
get a u-joint with the bat wing style caps to fit 2 of the
u-joint shafts and 2 round caps it fit the other 2 u-joint
shafts.
If your drive shaft fits your ****** splined shaft and the
drive shaft seems to be the right length, then bring it
with you to NAPA and if it's your real lucky day
maybe they can fix you up with a new joint. Good Luck
.
KULTULZ
Well-known member
It may be the original axle housing but the carrier ID's as later (C7AW-C).
And then you would need to find the correct flange to make it simpler for any future service.
That's the problem. Only GOD knows how many different years it has in it.
Maybe a photo of the rear of the axle housing.
EDIT -
You're 1957 SW Is Correct.
https://www.npdlink.com/product/u-joint-rear/140070
https://www.npdlink.com/product/lock-plate-rear-axle-pinion-yoke-repro-pair/140081
And then you would need to find the correct flange to make it simpler for any future service.
That's the problem. Only GOD knows how many different years it has in it.
Maybe a photo of the rear of the axle housing.
EDIT -
You're 1957 SW Is Correct.
- B5AZ 4635-A -
https://www.npdlink.com/product/u-joint-rear/140070
-and -
https://www.npdlink.com/product/lock-plate-rear-axle-pinion-yoke-repro-pair/140081
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1930artdeco
Well-known member
K, I didn't see any sort of tag on the carrier. I will take some more pics of it tonight or attach them. Normally, finding out about mismatched parts can be kinda fun. But not now.
KULTULZ
Well-known member
You're OK.
Your driveshaft and rear flange are correct. It needs a B5AZ 4635-A joint (shown above in previous post - NDP).
I did not know this. THANX for posting as this is my learned ...
!!! FACTOID of THE DAY !!!
The engine size is 292, correct? The SW 312 of that year used the more common SPICER JOINT.
1930artdeco
Well-known member
The car originally came with a 292/2 bbl. I purchased the drive train from a fairlane, so now I have a 312, I assume there should be no problems power wise as the new engine is basically stock with a slightly hopped up cam.
KULTULZ
Well-known member
But the rear you took a photo of is the rear found in the car when you bought it? The actual rear end assy has not been changed over?
Regardless, the rear you showed is correct using the U-JOINT I showed above (B5AZ 4635-A).
The actual 57 SW 312 rear used the SPICER rear U-JOINT. You should have no problems keeping the MECHANICS rear flange and U-JOINT.
Hope I am making all of this clear ...
1930artdeco
Well-known member
Yep....It is weird that Ford used two different u joint carriers. But then again that is Ford for ya-they pulled some crazy stunts. Then again all of them do.
1930artdeco
Well-known member
OK, finally got the drive shaft cut down and installed. Figured that I have the bolts in backwards by looking at the illustrated parts book. I can fix that with some different socket bolts and lock washers. My question here is that another group say that is not a ford factory U joint set up.
After looking at the same illustrations, it looks like someone (either Ford or later) swapped out the spicer u joint holder for the 56 model u joint holder. I still think this is the original Differential and face plate judging by the amount of rust on the outside and lack of wear on the teeth of the pinion gear.
After I swap out the bolts will this set up hold up to road work? Or will it vibrate itself apart?
Mike
After looking at the same illustrations, it looks like someone (either Ford or later) swapped out the spicer u joint holder for the 56 model u joint holder. I still think this is the original Differential and face plate judging by the amount of rust on the outside and lack of wear on the teeth of the pinion gear.
After I swap out the bolts will this set up hold up to road work? Or will it vibrate itself apart?
Mike
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rotorwrench
Well-known member
The winged design U-joint caps were usually held to the pinion yoke with four bolts. The yokes were threaded for the bolts to fit. Your set up may work OK but I've not seen nutted bolts securing U-joint caps before. It's usually either bolts or U-bolts depending on the design. The pinion yoke looks like one that would have used the U-bolts originally.
Alaska Jim
Well-known member
That style u-joint was used by ford for many years on several different applications. My 1951 Mercury uses one on the rear
Daves55Sedan
Well-known member
The 1957 and later cars no longer had the batwing caps on the u-joints in the rear. Starting in '57, they used specially shaped U-BOLTS that poked through the pinion yoke (which was only bored out but not tapped. they had shallow nuts with locking clips that needed to be hammered against the head of the nut after tightening.
The batwing caps on rear U-Joints were discontinued on cars in '56.
You cannot swap the batwing cap u-joints for u-joints with the u-bolts, nuts and locking clips if you are using a pinion yoke older than '57 because the older ones have tapped holes and u-bolts wont fit thru. In other words, you need to use the u-joint arrangement that mates with the yoke. So if you are using a '56 yoke, get the u-joint with the batwing caps ('54/55/56 Fords had those, maybe earlier models too).
The batwing caps on rear U-Joints were discontinued on cars in '56.
You cannot swap the batwing cap u-joints for u-joints with the u-bolts, nuts and locking clips if you are using a pinion yoke older than '57 because the older ones have tapped holes and u-bolts wont fit thru. In other words, you need to use the u-joint arrangement that mates with the yoke. So if you are using a '56 yoke, get the u-joint with the batwing caps ('54/55/56 Fords had those, maybe earlier models too).
Daves55Sedan
Well-known member
Typically, the driveshaft that uses the outer U-joint c-clips should be used with the pinion yoke with un-tapped holes. Those are '57 and later.
The '54/55/56 driveshafts had the u-joints with inner c-clips and those mate with the pinion yoke with tapped holes for the batwing caps on the u-joint.
I think you are going to run into trouble with your assembly as pictured. Those bolts with the knurled heads are too deep and may run into the end of the driveshaft when going over bumps in the road. As I recall, the original 55/56 bolts had shallow heads to prevent interference with end of driveshaft.
The '54/55/56 driveshafts had the u-joints with inner c-clips and those mate with the pinion yoke with tapped holes for the batwing caps on the u-joint.
I think you are going to run into trouble with your assembly as pictured. Those bolts with the knurled heads are too deep and may run into the end of the driveshaft when going over bumps in the road. As I recall, the original 55/56 bolts had shallow heads to prevent interference with end of driveshaft.