Aluminum Heads

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harryc

Senior Member
I put an aluminum head on one of my cars about 15 years ago. The engine still runs fine --good compression etc. I have some time so I have been thinking about pulling the head just to see what's going on. You hear a lot about corrosion with aluminum but at the same time I have no reason to suspect any problem. It has a copper headgasket that I put on it 15 years ago. Does anyone with an aluminum head have any advice ? thanks
 
that's pretty much how I feel. If it was an iron head I wouldn't give a thought. The aluminum makes me a little nervous after 15 years
 
Had the same concern a while back. Pulled the head, found a white powder in the water passages surfaces. Barners told me it was alum "rust" ie, corrosion and to use some anti freeze in the water. No damage, don't worry.
 
I would change the antifreeze out every so often.
bought a 37 cord and the antifreeze ate through the aluminum head. antifreeze and aluminum do react to one another, especially if its a real old head. Metallurgy is far better today.
 
You can get a head saver that gets ate up and not the head. I think you should leave the head on. It is most likely tight on the head studs.
 
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I have an aluminum head on one of my Model T's. I had an aluminum water pump on it that stopped pumping due to metal migration from the water pump. Since then, I use a sacrificial anode in the radiator to stop the deterioration of the aluminum. I have been told that anti-freeze also will help.
 
You can get Aluminum safe antifreeze. I have to use it in my motorcycle. It will say safe for aluminum on the jug.
 
I run a Thomas aluminum head on my tour car, so I hang one of those anodes sold by parts suppliers over the overflow tube in my radiator.
 
sorry to upset you PC, but at the very least, the antifreeze should be changed out every other year. it will eat at an old aluminum head.

I had to buy a new set of heads for my cord, which are difficult to come by.
of course, I got the car for a good price because of it, so two sides to my coin.........
 
Thanks ronn. I have the anode and change out the coolant every year along with the oil. Will now go back to worrying about other things.
 
PC/SR said:
Thanks ronn. I have the anode and change out the coolant every year along with the oil. Will now go back to worrying about other things.
Click to expand...

As dPokie stated !
I have a huge all aluminum engine in my truck (8.1L). The maker also makes anti-freeze that is recommended for this alum engine. Different anti-freeze than the old stuff that was for cast iron and less harmful to environment, if/when discarded/changed.
Also, as stated, sacrificial anode is always a good idea with aluminum use.
BTW..you can buy a VERY LONG inch thick water heater sac anode from most bldg. supplies stores. Enough (forever) to make into small anodes for your Model A , and / or any other engine with alum heads, etc...money saver, IMO :)
 
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I bought my first car with an aluminium engine more than forty years ago and have had several others since then. The manufacturers recommended using anti-freeze and changing it regularly. If my memory still works it was changed every two years or 50,000 miles, whichever came first. Never had a problem.

The outside of the engines would get covered with white powdery corrosion from road salt, but I never saw any internal corrosion.

All the cars were European, several Renault, a Porsche (Yes, the Porsche had anti-freeze. It was a 944.:D), Jaguar and Mercedes.
 
Passed up purchasing a very fine, bargain priced California derived 1954 Packard last year because it had aluminum heads. Best to avoid old machinery with critical operating components made from vintage aluminum The non-working hydraulic fluid drive power windows on that beautiful last of an era Packard put the final kibosh on a tentative deal.
 
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