aluminum flywheel bolt torque
- Thread starter Jefscoupe
- Start date
Bored&Stroked
Well-known member
In addition, I always use 'Red Loctite' . . . makes me feel a bit better about everything. The original bolts were drilled for a tie-wire, so if you have them . . . use them (if they engage to the proper depth).
The thickness of various flywheels (in the bolt flange) can differ - and in many cases the aluminum ones are thicker in the flange - so, think about this and make sure that your bolts are the correct length to engage with the crankshaft as they should . . . which is pretty much through the entire crankshaft flange thickness.
Pressure Plate Bolts: It is kind of the same deal, make sure you use 'shoulder bolts' - that are designed to go down into the flywheel and index as such. There are many different type of clutch bolts - make sure that what you use are correct for the pressure plate as well as the flywheel.
In the end, when you are using non-stock parts, it is up to you to figure out the details . . . just the way it is.
Good luck . . .
B&S
The thickness of various flywheels (in the bolt flange) can differ - and in many cases the aluminum ones are thicker in the flange - so, think about this and make sure that your bolts are the correct length to engage with the crankshaft as they should . . . which is pretty much through the entire crankshaft flange thickness.
Pressure Plate Bolts: It is kind of the same deal, make sure you use 'shoulder bolts' - that are designed to go down into the flywheel and index as such. There are many different type of clutch bolts - make sure that what you use are correct for the pressure plate as well as the flywheel.
In the end, when you are using non-stock parts, it is up to you to figure out the details . . . just the way it is.
Good luck . . .
B&S
Where did you find a listing for a Fidanza ? I canot find a current part number, I called them about 2 years ago and they told me the didn't produce them due to not being able to get the ring gears, I asked if they would do a production run if I supplied some ring gears , I finally just forgot about them , If they are starting to produce some , I would like to get the info on buying one. Many thanks! Fordestes
Paul Bennett
Well-known member
Anyone else interested in Why Aluminum Flywheel? as I was, this article is interesting.
https://fidanza.com/aluminum-vs-steel/
https://fidanza.com/aluminum-vs-steel/
danliveshere
Well-known member
https://fidanza.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/Fidanza-2017.pdf
Yep listed in their catalog for 49-53
I've actually managed to source a nos Weber going into my motor.
Yep listed in their catalog for 49-53
I've actually managed to source a nos Weber going into my motor.
Last edited:
JSeery
Member Emeritus
Well Ron, I would and do! It depends on several factors. Flywheel weight is the same basic issue as clutch and pressure plate size, rotation mass. The rotating mass has a lot to do with acceleration. If your driving a lumber truck and hauling a load you want a large rotating mass. If your driving a light weight car with the proper gearing (I like 4:11) and you are interested in maximizing acceleration then you want the lowest rotating mass you can reasonably get. You can machine a lot of weight off the stock flywheels and is a good approach for a milder performance car.
Bored&Stroked
Well-known member
Important Note: The type of fasteners you use (their design) and the manufacturer is key. The manufacturer should supply the installation instructions and torque specs - as only they can know the amount of torque needed for the correct clamping force yield for their bolts.
Length: I can assure you that the stock flathead flywheel bolts and associated washer plate are WRONG when using a Fidanza flywheel - they will be WAY too short!
Example ARP Specs:
For example, when using ARP flywheel bolts, you do NOT use washers (of any kind) in almost all of their kits. This means that you don't use the flat steel washer plate that was stock in our flathead engines (from the factory). When I put my Fidanza flywheel in my 32, I sourced the correct length ARP flywheel bolts and followed their instructions -- torque was to 85 lbs, I used loctite, etc..
Here is an example set of instructions from ARP:
View attachment 200-2802.pdf
Length: I can assure you that the stock flathead flywheel bolts and associated washer plate are WRONG when using a Fidanza flywheel - they will be WAY too short!
Example ARP Specs:
For example, when using ARP flywheel bolts, you do NOT use washers (of any kind) in almost all of their kits. This means that you don't use the flat steel washer plate that was stock in our flathead engines (from the factory). When I put my Fidanza flywheel in my 32, I sourced the correct length ARP flywheel bolts and followed their instructions -- torque was to 85 lbs, I used loctite, etc..
Here is an example set of instructions from ARP:
View attachment 200-2802.pdf
JSeery
Member Emeritus
If your referring to the car in your avatar I would agree!
Jefscoupe
Senior Member
Do you have a part number for these?
I bought some that were listed for flathead ford (got 6 in the set...hey two spares) but the threads aren't right. They go in about two full turns with my fingers and stop. And yes, they came with that same little sheet you posted.
Hmmmm, it did list a torque spec...
Still, I need the correct PN for those bolts please.
And if you notice my avatar, that is what this is going in.
I couldn't afford the astronomical prices the hoarders want for an original Weber like the guy had in it back in the day ($900 and needed machined!).
Fidanza had these on sale one day for cheap (like $250) so I jumped on it.
Thanks for the info guys!
Jefscoupe
Senior Member
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/the-chelsea-auto-parts-coupe-re-build.696492/
Here is a link with history, more pics and progress.
I went back out checking the bolts again.
Seems the ARP bolts I have are the same diameter and thread.
I ran thread chasers (not a tap or die) over both new and old bolts and in the crank's tapped holes. But the new bolts still seem to be tight.
Also, I measured the crank flange and flywheel mounting flange and find the new bolts are maybe .060 longer than the stack of crank/flywheel. They will stick out past the back of the crank about 1/16". Is that too much?
Here is a link with history, more pics and progress.
I went back out checking the bolts again.
Seems the ARP bolts I have are the same diameter and thread.
I ran thread chasers (not a tap or die) over both new and old bolts and in the crank's tapped holes. But the new bolts still seem to be tight.
Also, I measured the crank flange and flywheel mounting flange and find the new bolts are maybe .060 longer than the stack of crank/flywheel. They will stick out past the back of the crank about 1/16". Is that too much?