Junkyard Dog
Member
put a one wire alt. in merc. do i need volt gauge and how does it hook up?
alternator
- Thread starter Junkyard Dog
- Start date
39portlander
Well-known member
Hopefully you bought the ford alt/brackett kit from Certified Auto Electric, I installed mine on the 59AB in the 39.
Wireing a Barebonz panel from Ron Francis that has all the wireing diagrams for the guages, lights, ect. next month. I would like to know as well.
Wireing a Barebonz panel from Ron Francis that has all the wireing diagrams for the guages, lights, ect. next month. I would like to know as well.
The single LARGE wire go's to the battery and the alternator should have a ground wire from the body of the alternator to the engine. Don't depend on the mounting bracket for a good ground. I have volt meters on all my old Fords with 6 volt alternators. You need the battery to be fully charged, I have digital volt meters below the dash or a digital muti meter that bracket hangs on the windsheild knob on the 39s to monitor the voltage so I know exactly how the preform is at all sppeds and idle. I run all of my engines at a very low idle and get about 6.70 volts at idle and as soon as the RPMs are increased to a normal idle the charge go's to 7.5. I built my own alternators in the Ford case and have a small hole in the back and can set the maximum voltage output with a small screw driver to whatever I want which is 7.5. An alternator don't drop to 0 output or actually battery voltage like a generator at idle or when your foot is removed from the gas pedal. This is due to the cutout. An alternator won't try to run like a motor and is diode blocked for back feed. I do find if the battery gets to low it takes a while to get up to 7.5, it's best to start with a fully charged battery. G.M.
39portlander
Well-known member
Thank's George, should there be a "safety" in-line fuse on the wire to the battery?
39 It sounds like your rewireing the truck and a main fuse would be good plus a good battery dicconnect, not the cheap green thing. They are aluminum with a yellow finish to make them look like they are brass. There is not much contact area, they arc and make poor contact. I had 3 of the go bad. Contact Bob Shewman for a good high quality switch. gadgiteer@aol.com G.M.