Alternator vs. generator?

A properly rebuilt gen will last 100,000 miles with very little maint.a drop ar 2 of oil in rear bushing every 1,000 miles & in front or rear ball brg,if so equipped.Adjust the 3rd brush until the ammeter shows 0 with lights on at a cruising RPM Best to check with a master ammeter as the dash ammeters are not accurate.I use an old Weidenhoff AVR from the 1940,s & like it a lot better than the modern digital junk.I like to use vintage equipment whenever I can.A gen will be almost bullet-proof if you use a modern electronic reg under the cover band or,like i did,the reg hidden inside a cut-out can.As I always say,A fugly alt doesnt belong under the hood of an A & is only needed if you are using AC or hi-draw lights etc.Model A lights properly restored will give you ample light even cruising at 55 or so in OD.
 
Duffy1 said:
Any one running AC ( requires 12 v, pulls 15 to 20 amp ) with a generator ?
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The armature would have to be changed for that kind of amps, or change to a later generator. Brattons use to offer a 60 amp armature for the model A generator. I was dissapointed to see that Brattons has discontinued all of the model A generator armatures. If they still have them, I didn't see them in trhe new catalog.
 
Tom Wesenberg said:
A generator with an electronic voltage regulator is the best of both worlds. I restored my powerhouse generator in 1995 and made an electronic voltage regulator to fit inside the rear cover to replace the adjustable third brush. I haven't had the cover off since, and don't expect to have to remove it again in my lifetime. My 6 volt battery came from a junk yard 10 years ago and is still going strong. I credit this to the generator with an EVR and a quality battery.
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Dear Tom:

I like your approach, make the old parts work better.

Two questions: Before I go the EVR route should I have my generator bench tested?
And since I'm not real good with electrical should I have my local shop make me up an EVR and install?

thanks

phil
 
I wonder why generators work at all. Most rebuilders just patch up the immediate problem and send it down the road for the next failure. Have it rebuilt right and it should work fine. An alternator just doesn't look right on a Model A.

Charlie Stephens
 
Phil, the local shop will be lucky to know how to properly fix the generator, much less be able to make an EVR for it. Does your generator work now? Or, hasn't it been mounted and tried? If no one has been inside the generator then it should be in good shape except for maybe needing brushes and bearings. If the car was run with a poor connection in the charging circuit, then you may have a cooked field or armature in the generator. Once the generator is restored and an EVR installed, you should be good to go for many years of driving.
 
Phil, If you've got a battery charger or jump start device you can easily test the generator yourself. When they are off, I usually lay them in a vise for convience but not necessary. Connect the negative connection to the generator terminal post. connect the positive cable to the genetator mounting bracket as a ground. The generator will turn slowly in the direction that the engine turns when its running if the generator is good. Don't be fooled by a bad connection. Paint can cause problems with ground connection. You may have to jiggle the connections to get good contact. If all you've got handy is 12 volt, that will work with no problem. If the generator is on the car you will need to remove the fan belt. The generator motors weakly and won't be able to turn the engine in this test. If it motors in the correct direction you should be good to go untill you can get your EVR. Be sure that you ground with the positive cable or you can reverse the polarity in the generator. Model A's are positive ground. If it has a diode cutout remove it before testing with 12 volt .
 
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(I changed mine to a alternator and love it. Generators are just fine, but an alternator keeps your battery in better shape )
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