Alternator info

pooch

pooch

Well-known member
Got 28 pickup home today and had it driving in an hour.

Does anyone know what this alternator is.... ie 6 volt or 12 volt or pos or neg earth?

I do not want to hook it up to any battery until I am sure.

It says delco remy made in USA.

In the first pic, I can see the large eyelet that hooks to starter motor and it goes up to ammeter and the other wire comes back from ammeter.

The white wire pointed out is joined to the red wire at other end.

Is this just the exciter wire and just needs to be hooked to a small ignition bulb?

How can I test this before putting any battery power to it?

alt1_zps8472be04.jpg


alt2_zps2c477298.jpg


alt3_zps397af11c.jpg
 
Standard 12 volt non self exciting GM alternator. It can be made to work at 12 volts but will have to be connected correctly. Pos/neg does not matter as long as the battery is hooked up the same.
 
the delco alternator can look the same and be 6V, 12V, 24V with the change of the regulator, from the looks of the terminals on the back most likely it is negative ground, and because of the external regulator wires most likely just as removed from the chevy--12Vneg ground, the red wire is the voltage sensing wire, the yellow with stripe wire would originally be hooked to the ignition switch through a small light bulb and serves the purpose of turning on the regulator and an indicator of "charging" when it goes out after the alt is spun up by running engine.

If you hook it up neg ground and it sparks it is either bad or pos ground
 
Mike V. Florida said:
This should help;

One wire, 3 wire alternator
Click to expand...


What a swell article. Thanks, Mike!

So, I gather that the common one-wire conversion in effect makes the BATT post on the alternator into the regulated terminal post. That means that the common practice of also connecting the headlights and horn directly to the alternator BATT post means that they are always getting full voltage, which is a good thing. The downside (in addition to needing to goose the rpm's to start alternator charging) is that the battery will be being slightly undercharged by an amount corresponding to whatever voltage drop occurs in the wiring between the alternator's BATT post and the battery terminal. Do I have that right?

I suppose the saving grace is that the distances under the Model A hood are so short that significant voltage losses are mostly at the connections, rather than thru the wires per se.


Steve
 
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Check out this Link, You have a 3 wire Delco 10 SI, you can purchase a rebuilt one from Advance Auto for less than $30 exchange.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...tor-driveworks_5030250-p?searchTerm=altenator

A better one to buy is this one for $53. 63 amp 1 wire,

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-CHROME-...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item256fd4235d

Delco 10-SI: The Delco 10-SI alternator was introduced in the early 1970’s and was the first internal regulator alternator widely used by GM. This alternator was the most common standard equipment alternator used on GM cars & light trucks. It was also used extensively in other applications such as industrial, marine, agricultural equipment. It is recognizable by the three air vent holes on the rear of the case and the old-style stamped steel fan. The 10-SI alternators are available in 37, 42, 55, 63, 70 and possibly 85-amp versions.
 
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Thanks all.. good info.

I thought it may have been a vendor sold type specially for the model A, and maybe 6 volt and pos earth, but seeing it is only a run of the mill alt, it is not as critical.
 
If you hook the other wire to the + side of the coil, will work. You should add a fuse on the starter and pull it when you shut down as when you have an alternator it will run your battery down due to the small draw exciting the field of the alternator. The R terminal of the DA plug on the aternator should have a 3A/100V diode inserted in the wire before it attaches to the coil. Got a write up on this if you would like. Send me your email address to jrelliott42@gmail.com
 
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