Alternator choices

Colorado kid

Colorado kid

Junior Member
I am looking at upgrading my 6 volt generator to the alternator, and they all have some advantages/disadvantages.
Nurex has a good tension bracket, but having to goose the engine to kick it in and not energized at idle is a minus. Heielelectric (Hagemeister electronics) alternator solved this problem zero RPM according to Paul Shinn trying it out. Has anyone tried this unit out? Wonder why Nurex hasn’t updated this yet.
I like the design of Powermaster looking like a generator, but someone stated it didn’t impress them on longevity.
Has anyone built their own unit, buying a kit (which interests me but not sure where to buy parts), if someone has a source let me know.
 
Kid, I have had my PowerGEN Alternator now for over 8 years with zero issues... I like the looks of it over a GM alternator.

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Before I had the PowerGEN, I had a NuRex. Not charging right away was a non-issue. I would just start driving, by the time I got to the end of my street, it had "excited" and was charging fine.
 
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"Goosing" the engine as you describe it is, in my experience a non issue. Once charging starts, it is maintained even when the revs drop below what it took to start charging. I give the accelerator a jab and watch the ammeter. When it shows a charge,, that's it. Drive normally and enjoy your car.My cars are 12 volts so I can use any alternator I pick up from a wrecking yard, with or without a regulator.
 
I decided to run an alternator because at the time I purchased halogen headlight bulbs with the new Bratton's reflectors for better night vision. I don't like the looks of an alternator on a Model A. Somehow, I found that Russ Evans makes just what I was looking for, an alternator the looks EXACTLY LIKE a Model A generator. Russ Evans is in Simi Valley, California and makes this alternator with the correct cutout included. It's a 45 amp, 6 volt, positive ground unit that will pass fine point judging. It cost about $560.00 plus $27 shipping (in 2024). Russ stands 100% behind his alternators and will replace any defective units without question. He is a Model A guy and will build the unit for your car, just supply him with your month/year build date and he will make up one exactly as needed for your car. He doesn't have a web site or email, but he can be reached by phone at (805) 428-2564. He also makes a 12 volt, negative ground unit. I bought mine from Russ because I felt better about giving my money to him verse a big corporation. I purchased it in 2014 and have put over 15,000 miles on it without a single problem. The battery is always perfectly charged and I don't have to worry about driving at night.
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AL in NY
 
Charging at an idle is a non-issue.That A will run with a slight discharge for many,many hours.Looking for an alternator that will charge instantly is a solution looking for a problem.Who cares if it doesn't charge for a minute,or two,or ten?The engine doesn't care.Some people don't like to 'goose' a cold engine.So,don't do it.It'll charge the moment you drive off.
 
I have been driving my 29 Tudor with a generator supplied by Snyder’s, 6V positive ground with a regular, 75 year old cutout. I have one of the modern cutouts in my breakdown kit but haven’t needed it. I converted to LED bulbs and at idle the ammeter shows about 1-2 amps of charge and at 45mph it shows about 6amps. With the lights on it never shows discharge. I drive during the day with my headlights on for safety and even then it rarely shows a discharge. My point with this post is the generator with LED bulbs can get you what you need for a reliable charging system. I do use a 0.75 amp BatteryTender with the car in the garage. My last battery went 9 years.
 
Paul Shinn did a video on converting an alternator to 6V P ground. You can get the parts on FleaBay - even a new one wire GM (type) alternator for about $60.
Paint it black and it won't be so obvious.
When I convert our Tudor to 12V N ground I' going to use one of the small Japanese one wire alternators. At less than 4" in dia you may be able to trim it to fit inside an old generator.
 

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ModelA29 said:
Paul Shinn did a video on converting an alternator to 6V P ground. You can get the parts on FleaBay - even a new one wire GM (type) alternator for about $60.
Paint it black and it won't be so obvious.
When I convert our Tudor to 12V N ground I' going to use one of the small Japanese one wire alternators. At less than 4" in dia you may be able to trim it to fit inside an old generator.
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A few years ago, I built a supercharged replica 1920s grand prix car. I wanted it to look right so I used an alternator like that one hidden inside the original generator housing. The screws that hold the field coils actually held the alternator from turning in the housing but appeared original. Although I have since sold the car, I still pat myself on my back for how it turned out.
BTW, I sold that car because I was going to kill myself in it if I kept it. It was just too darned fast. It weighed well under a ton - even one of the American "short" tons and put out about 140 hp. It now resides in a collection in Switzerland.
 
I have been using alternators in my Model A's for many years. I have a 12V Nurex alternator in my Victoria, and it charges as soon as I step on the accelerator to move the car. There is no need to intentionally rev the engine to start the Nurex alternator. There is no convincing me to run a stock 6V generator & cutout. I must have the reliability of a modern alternator.
 
Y-Blockhead said:
Kid, I have had my PowerGEN Alternator now for over 8 years with zero issues... I like the looks of it over a GM alternator.

54748698840_fc7be36239_z.jpg


Before I had the PowerGEN, I had a NuRex. Not charging right away was a non-issue. I would just start driving, by the time I got to the end of my street, it had "excited" and was charging fine.
Click to expand...


If I were to go with an alternator it would be the PowerGEN. Really like the look.
 
You can purchase an Electronic Voltage Regulator which fits inside the stock Model A generator housing (Long-style or Powerhouse).

The EVR replaces the 3rd brush and maintains the generator output at 7.2V - similar to an Alternator. It also protects the generator if it is disconnected from the Battery. You can use the original or diode cutout.

The EVR allows you to maintain your original generator and costs less than an alternator.

There is information on the EVR on this forum including pictures of the installation. Contact Mike Hill at hill.mf@gmail.com
 
30Tudor said:
You can purchase an Electronic Voltage Regulator which fits inside the stock Model A generator housing (Long-style or Powerhouse).

The EVR replaces the 3rd brush and maintains the generator output at 7.2V - similar to an Alternator. It also protects the generator if it is disconnected from the Battery. You can use the original or diode cutout.

The EVR allows you to maintain your original generator and costs less than an alternator.

There is information on the EVR on this forum including pictures of the installation. Contact Mike Hill at hill.mf@gmail.com
Click to expand...

If the EVR regulates the voltage, why would you still need a cutout?
 
Even with an EVR, you still need something to keep the battery from pushing power and trying to motor the generator or flow to ground with an alternator.
 
Colorado kid said:
I am looking at upgrading my 6 volt generator to the alternator, and they all have some advantages/disadvantages.
Nurex has a good tension bracket, but having to goose the engine to kick it in and not energized at idle is a minus. Heielelectric (Hagemeister electronics) alternator solved this problem zero RPM according to Paul Shinn trying it out. Has anyone tried this unit out? Wonder why Nurex hasn’t updated this yet.
I like the design of Powermaster looking like a generator, but someone stated it didn’t impress them on longevity.
Has anyone built their own unit, buying a kit (which interests me but not sure where to buy parts), if someone has a source let me know.
Click to expand...

Paul was right on. The Hagemeister electronics alternator solved my problem of the alternator dropping out when stopping at stoplights etc. Now I start the my truck at idle and the alternator is immediately charging. It never has dropped out at idle and I have never had to rev the engine up to turn the alternator on.
 
GPierce said:
Paul was right on. The Hagemeister electronics alternator solved my problem of the alternator dropping out when stopping at stoplights etc. Now I start the my truck at idle and the alternator is immediately charging. It never has dropped out at idle and I have never had to rev the engine up to turn the alternator on.
Click to expand...

Interesting. Once my alternator is excited, I have never had one "drop out at idle" at a stop sign. Exciting the alternator when first start is a non-issue, as stated by others. Just drive the car and it will start charging.
 
Ruth said:
Interesting. Once my alternator is excited, I have never had one "drop out at idle" at a stop sign. Exciting the alternator when first start is a non-issue, as stated by others. Just drive the car and it will start charging.
Click to expand...
My experience exactly, NuRex 6v+ in my ‘31. The only time I “goose” the alternator to excite it is if I know I’m going to start it and idle to warm up while I’m inside for an extended period. Otherwise, drive it and it excites just fine, and stays excited.
 
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