Alternator bracket not fitting right

[bergie]

I bought a 1950 f1 that was converted to 12 volts with an alternator and a bracket that doesn’t appear to be manufactured well. If the photos display I hope to show that the square spacer/washer that holds the bracket to the intake is barely “catching “ the left side. I am afraid that during operation the retaining washer will slip and allow the bracket to shift and throw the fan blades into the radiator. If I can find another bracket I could do that. Or I am thinking I could find a good aluminum welder (I am assuming it’s aluminum) and have them close the gap allowing more overlap. What say you? Thanks for any input.

 

[Flathead Fever]

What I say, I say that don't look too good. Even if the washer was larger It's going to move around with that much space on either side of the stud. Especially with the fan on there too. It could be TIG welded and machined but it's probably cheaper to buy another one. Strange thing about all those mass-produced low-tech Ford parts, they all fit.

 

[tubman]

I had a similar problem with an aluminum intake manifold that was missing the raised pieces on the front of the manifold that the bracket slides through and keeps it aligned (got that?). I cut two strips of aluminum the proper size and used a special aluminum epoxy to attach them to the front of the manifold. I then drilled and tapped 5 holes through each one and used countersunk flathead machine screws to further strengthen the bond. I can see making a deep "U"-shaped piece that could be epoxied in and attached with screws. It would be a little more complex, as the screws, rather than being threaded into the bracket, would probably have to go all the way through the bracket and be secured by nuts on the outside.

It would be a lot of "putzing", but I personally like to "putz" and don't have a spool gun or a tig setup.

 

[Ggmac]

Speedway has a steel bracket that works well . Ive got 3 in use .

 

[51 MERC-CT]

So long as there is appox. 1/16" of the washer engaging the slot, just fabricate a sleeve that will slip over the stud and slips in the slot.
This will keep the stud centered in the slot.

 

[Mart]

It's hard to judge from here, but isn't the bracket a good fit into the channel formed at the front of the manifold? It should be, and shouldn't be able to move side to side.

It might be possible to remove some material from the inside walls of the fan bracket and custom make a oversize washer to clamp it all up.

With some attention to fine detail there is no reason it should not work.

I'd prefer to be looking at the parts to make a proper call, but is there anything I have said that does not sound right?

Mart.

 

[19Fordy]

If possible, have each side of the "u" slot built up with tig welded aluminum and file it just enough to slide over the stud. It will give you piece of mind knowing it's a solid piece and all fits nice and snug. Here's some photos of a similar set up where aftermarket alternator bracket was cut and modified so alternator would sit down lower between the radiator hoses. Stainless spacer added to allow the BIG hex nut to extend out a little more for easier access. Been like this for 30 years.

 

[bergie]

Yes, the front my intake has the “channel “ to position the alternator bracket from side to side. It’s not a great fit but it’s ok. Like Mart said, I also had the idea that I could file little bit off the flanges on the fan bracket and then manufacture a slightly larger washer that would sufficiently grip the “shoulders” of the alternator bracket. I also plan to manufacture a “sleeve “ for the intake stud as 51-MERC-CT suggested. I am not a big fan of “putzing”, but I am cheap. Fortunately, time is not money for me.

 

[bergie]

Ggmac mentioned speedway’s bracket,but I have a motorcraft 3-wire alternator and speedway’s bracket appears to be for a single wire GM alternator. My bracket’s upper arms are offset front to back. Similar to 19Fordy’s photos. Plus my engine has wide belt pulleys on the crank (2), water pumps, and alternator. 19Fordy’s pictures show what I was originally thinking, that the “u” channel could be tightened up to give more of a “shoulder” for the washer/spacer to clamp down on the bracket. I will try to find an experienced welder and get their opinion. Another thought that I had was that I could size a steel plate that would cover the entire face of the alternator bracket and then drill holes in that plate for the fan bracket bolts and a slot for the intake stud. I am assuming that the fan pulley shaft can be adjusted to allow for the spacer plate thickness.

 

[19Fordy]

Bergie, In the long run, your "plate" idea, etc. will just make adjusting the height of your fan for adequate fan belt tension a more cumbersome and tedious process. Just go ahead and TIG weld and file the "U" slot to fit and you will be much happier in the long run as there will be no extra added parts to deal with. Plus, welding will give you much more contact and grip surface for the square washer.

 

[bergie]

Thanks for everyone’s input. It seems the shaft on the fan bracket isn’t adjustable in and out, so the plate idea is out. I took the whole assembly to a local blacksmith/metal fabricator/welder today. I don’t have 51 MERC-CT’s skills at illustration, unfortunately, but after studying it, he wants to cut a channel in the walls of the alternator bracket slot to a depth that will give plenty of “shoulder “ for the spacer to rest on. Remember the slot width gets narrower at deeper depths. Since that will cause the spacer to be recessed somewhat, he will make a new spacer that is much thicker so that the fan bracket slot will still be locked in place.

For 19 Fordy: the blacksmith convinced me to go this way because he said tig welding the slot on the bracket would “soften” the base metal of the bracket. Plus he said it would be very difficult to deposit the new material for the full depth of the narrow slot. Lastly, he said tig welding the slot would be much more expensive than what he’s planning. I will update when I get the bracket back. Thanks again to everyone.

 

[19Fordy]

I respectfully disagree with the blacksmith's excessive "softening" theory and that TIG welding the slot would be too difficult and too expensive. $50 per hour is a fair cost and it would not take more than an hour to do the welding you require as you are only building up a flat surface.

An experienced TIG welder would know the best procedure and type of filler rod to use without compromising the strength of the bracket. You could do the required filing and fitting yourself.

However, I hope his idea works for your situation. Be sure to report back. I had my aluminum bracket welded at a local vocational trade school after I explained to the instructor what I wanted to do. He knew what to do without harming the bracket. I then made a donation to his "shop fund". If I had a TIG welder I would have done it myself.