Alterations, Add-Ons, and Modifications
- Thread starter RcT
- Start date
John LaVoy
Well-known member
We have written many articles about what you should do and what you could do for long distance touring. We have driven 4-5,000 miles on various tours with cars totally stock and highly modified.
Some things are a given, seat belts! Then move onto reliability. the Model A in it's original configuration is fairly reliable, but things have improved and you can add these improvements to the car.
You will find many people that say leave it as Henry built it. Of course when the Model A was new a trip of more than 100 miles was unheard of, so keep it stock and keep it at home. The roads were not paved so you only drove slowly past the horses and forded the streams carefully. Now you are facing high speed roads and the need to flow with traffic or get off the roads.
Stock is nice and I have a totally stock car, but for getting out and seeing the country I like my sedan with 12 volts, air conditioning , stereo etc. I will drive along with the stock folks at 45 MPH, but when I am running along 55-60 is much nicer.
Of course to each his own, it is your car and you should set it up how you are comfortable.
Some things are a given, seat belts! Then move onto reliability. the Model A in it's original configuration is fairly reliable, but things have improved and you can add these improvements to the car.
You will find many people that say leave it as Henry built it. Of course when the Model A was new a trip of more than 100 miles was unheard of, so keep it stock and keep it at home. The roads were not paved so you only drove slowly past the horses and forded the streams carefully. Now you are facing high speed roads and the need to flow with traffic or get off the roads.
Stock is nice and I have a totally stock car, but for getting out and seeing the country I like my sedan with 12 volts, air conditioning , stereo etc. I will drive along with the stock folks at 45 MPH, but when I am running along 55-60 is much nicer.
Of course to each his own, it is your car and you should set it up how you are comfortable.
60 years ago,I drove a bone stock A.I could seldom get over 40 as the roads were so rough and an OD was definitely not needed.Today,unless you are happy to just putt-putt around a quiet subdivision,I find it much safer to have OD & an HC head & brake floaters.If I had a stock A today,it would likely sit in the garage & gather dust.
Mike V. Florida
Well-known member
Nice to see this in writing from you. I've noticed a shift in your magazine to modified cars, and now I see that the editor wants it that way. I will not be renewing.
jerry shook
Well-known member
Mike. Would you post how to get the magazine you are not renewing. Me and a lot of other people would love to get it.
jerry shook
Well-known member
I AGREE THE WORD ( needed) should not be used. LETS CHANGE IT TO ( IF YOU LOVE LIVING). GREG PICTURE OF THE WRECKED MODEL A PROVES UPGRADES ARE ( IF YOU LOVE LIVING). SURE HELPS TO HAVE POWER AND BRAKES WHEN YOU ( LOVE LIVING) ON TODAY ROADS. JUST SAYING.
John LaVoy
Well-known member
There are a number of articles under way right now that deal with original parts, but if all you are interested in is completely stock Model As then The Restorer or News would be what you read. We try to explore various aspects of the Model A, the hobby and how to get them on the road and be driven.
John LaVoy
Well-known member
Since a couple of asked about getting the magazine it is $25 per year, Model A Times PO Box 1919, Rocklin, CA 95677, www.modelatimes.com
Jim Mason
Well-known member
Here's a page from my old site that Charlie Stephens wrote and I commented on. Now I will get into the changes that I would make or at least consider making to a Model A assuming that I was starting with one that was original but not a high point show car or such a low mileage original that it wouldn’t be appropriate to change it. These are changes that I would personally make based on how I use my Model A. As I go down the list I am sure the purists will become increasingly angered and probably stop reading.(Yep!!!jm) I include these items such that you may evaluate any changes you may find on cars you are considering. If you remove original parts from the car, save them because someday someone may want to completely restore the car (this extends from bolts with special heads to complete mechanical brake systems). If you add parts, bolt them on using existing holes. The person who wants to completely restore the car in the future may turn out to be you. Remember, as I said before, you can get into a stock Model A and drive it and enjoy it.
1. Put a fuse in the electrical system. Most suppliers sell a small fuse that mounts on the generator. It’s cheap insurance. (check the quality, some fuses have caused problems jm)
2. Get a heat baffle that shields the distributor from the exhaust manifold heat. Be sure to get the stainless steel one, it will look good forever. The heat from the exhaust manifold is hard on the condenser. Even after installing the shield, carry an extra condenser under the seat and buy only the highest quality condenser you can get.
3. Check the water pump, if there is any sign of leakage, replace it with a pack less pump (don’t cut corners here, buy a good one).
5. Check the fan. If it is an original fan check carefully for fatigue cracks. Feel the blade for signs of rust inside between the layers of metal. Consider one of the reproduction aluminum fan blades. Also the 1933-4 fan (4 blades) is a good replacement for the Model A 2 blade but they are also old and subject to fatigue failures. (MY FAN PAGE)
6. Install a right hand taillight. Most cars came with only a left taillight and are therefore legal (in most states) with only one light but they are sure a lot safer with two. The lights are small compared to modern cars so every little bit helps. Excellent reproduction lights and brackets are available for making this change.
The preceding are probably the best bang for your buck changes and this might be a good place to stop making changes. Changes are definitely an example of "more is not better". While a few changes tend to "personalize" the car, too many changes soon destroy the character of the car. Now for a few more changes. Keep in mind that the necessity for these changes is highly dependent on how you use “your” Model A.
7. Turn signals. Kits are available from suppliers. In today’s traffic hand signals are marginal during the day but not worth much at night.
8. Headlights. The original reflectors were silver plated and tended to tarnish. If you try to polish yours remember that silver is soft and requires a very fine polish formulated for use on silver. Plating companies can resilver your original reflectors or some companies like Uvira [(541) 474-5050] replate your reflectors with aluminum and then apply a coat of glass (trust me, this comes out a lot better than it sounds, this technology is used on mirrors to dissipate heat from communications satellites in space). Are they expensive? Yes. Are they cheaper than hitting something in the road at night due to poor headlights? Probably. Avoid the chrome-plated reflectors available from some suppliers, as they do not reflect enough light. Be sure all of your grounds are good. Apply a drop of solder on the wire connectors at the bottom of the steering column if there is still a problem. If you need really good lights consider changing the car to 12 volts and going to halogen bulbs using an adapter or the high intensity 12-volt bulbs that go into the original sockets that are available from the Ron Francis Wire Works [(800) 292-1940]. When making the change to 12 volts it is most common to use the alternators available from many of the suppliers. If and when I convert my Model A to 12 volts I intend to try to use a 1955-64 Ford 12 volt generator. I feel a generator looks more like it belongs on a Model A.
9. Hydraulic brakes. Never discuss hydraulic brakes with a purist.(!!!jm) Never discuss politics (vote counting), religion or hydraulic brakes in mixed company. My personal opinion is that a good set of 1939-49 hydraulic brakes properly installed is a major safety improvement if you intend to drive the car very much or very fast. After having said all of that, I will admit that when I got my 1931 Roadster Pickup the hydraulic brakes were so poorly installed that I converted back mechanical brakes because they would be safer. If you choose to stay with the mechanical brakes consider putting “bands” on the steel brake drums. These are available as reproductions but may frequently be found on otherwise scrap used drums. Another good choice for the mechanical brake system is to use cast iron brake drums. These came out in late 1931 but originals are so rare that you will probably end up buying reproductions.
10. If you would like a few extra horsepower consider a higher compression head. This could take the form of using a 1932-34 head (with its associated 3 bolt water pump), an original Model A high performance “police” head (with a block B cast into the head), a head from Brumfield, or a high compression head from Snyders. These heads are only slightly above the stock compression ratio and can be bolted onto a stock engine without other modifications. If you increase the compression beyond what you get from these heads be sure you understand what other modifications you should make to the engine. If you want to go beyond this in increasing the horsepower there is a chapter (FAST) of the MARC and MAFCA clubs that is dedicated to speed equipment. Information on speed equipment is also available from the Secrets of Speed Society (SOSS)(cy4fn@aol.com).
11. If your rear end ratio is 4.11:1 consider going to a 3.54:1 rear end ratio. If you have a good rear end with a 3.78:1 ratio it would probably not be worth changing. If you have to rebuild the rear end for other reasons definitely go to the 3.54:1 ratio when you have it apart. A recent posting pointed out how small the change in RPM is for a given speed between the 3.78:1 and 3.54:1 ratios. I double-checked the math and it was right. All I know is that my Roadster Pick-up with a 3.54:1 ratio sure runs better than my roadster with a 3.78:1 ratio using the same engine in both vehicles.
12. If other family members are going to drive the car a 1932-34 distributor (or an aftermarket) with automatic advance might be a good idea. If you start the car with the spark lever down you risk breaking the Bendix drive on the starter motor.
This is the point at which I would stop making changes based on the way I use a Model A but there a couple of more you might consider if your situation warrants it.
1. If you have a closed car and live in a hot climate you might consider one of the firewall insulator kits sold by most suppliers. They are patterned after the firewall insulators Ford used beginning in 1932. They are not original but look like they belong there to an untrained eye.
2. A nice change if other family members are driving the car would be the later model Borg Warner transmission with full syncros. I am the only one driving my car and I personally think the original transmission is fine but I have driving Model A’s for the last 40 years.
3. A final concession to other family members (or maybe yourself if you have arthritis) would be to replace the original steering with an F1 pickup steering. This change is not visible without lifting the hood and then it is only visible if you know what you are looking for. Note that this is a bolt in type of change that can be reversed if someone desires to restore the car in the future. If I chose to rebuild the original steering because it needed it, I would suggest going to needle bearings on the sector shaft. I can’t prove they work but I have them in my steering and it works well.
Best of luck and welcome to the hobby,
Charlie Stephens
Closing comments by me (Jim Mason)
One of the points that I stress is point 5. Decided early on what you are going to do with the car. If you plan on fine point judging, reproduction parts are out. If you plan on driving your car and never show it...I still wouldn't use any more repop parts than absolutely necessary. Attending swap meets, meeting with people, and the enjoyment of the hunt, is an important and very enjoyable part of the hobby. Many find that when they have 'finished' a car, they no longer have the interest in it that they had, and sell it in order to buy another to work on. One recommendation some people make is to buy one to drive, and one to restore..if time, money and space allows, this may be a good answer.
Being a more of a purist than some, I would not make the same recommendations for modifications, and actually disagree with some of the modifications mentioned. I prefer to drive unmodified cars.
AS SAID IN THE ANSWER ABOVE...POLITICS, RELIGION, AND MODIFICATIONS CAN'T BE SUCCESFULLY ARGUED.
YOU WILL CHANGE THE ARGUEMENTS BUT NOT THE OPINIONS
While true that inherent in the design, the Model A engine will have more vibration than a modern engine, the engine should be smooth running. If care is not taken in matching the weights of the power train parts, and in balancing the engine/flywheel and other components undue vibrations can occur. Again, become familiar with a well restored vehicle to be able to judge the quality of any work done on your purchase.
Properly restored, and maintained, mechanical brakes, manual advance distributors, non-synchro transmissions, steering boxes etc. can and have given years of excellent service. The 'trick' is to bring them all back to factory specs and keep them that way (actually RESTORE THE VEHICLE, NOT JUST REPAIR OR MAKE DO OR PERFORM A MESSTORATION .
And Here is Marco's rebuttal:
Re: Modern upgrades - The Long Version!
by Marco Tahtaras
Folks don't like to here this due to the inferences, but here goes.
GENERATOR
I rebuilt my own so I know it will be good for 100k miles or more. The generator will do everything it is supposed to and do it well. The only time I ever changed the charging rate was when I was going to drive more than 100 miles after dark. I did have to change the battery after four years.
GENERATOR CUTOUT
Originals are fine and properly done diode conversions should be fine (I've never tried one). The repros were junk in the 70's and likely the same today. A cutout is LESS than ideal unless you either drive the car very regularly, or keep it on a battery tender when not in use.
For everyone else I'd recommend a voltage regulator. There are two types and I've heard great things about both. The first (Vince's choice) mounts on the inside of the band and is wired into the generator. The second looks like and replaces the cutout. It's not clear to me how this one works, but I've heard nothing but good and intend to try one myself since I just don't get to drive my cars daily at the present time. Both of these allow for a much higher charging rate only when needed similar to an alternator.
ALTERNATOR
Simply not needed for most of us. They have the potential for much greater output which I'll never need. The Generator handles everything nicely even under my current "limited use" conditions. If you start making changes that can all change. For example, many folks have old or chrome repro headlamp reflectors with poor reflectivity. Add this to poor focus and the results are DANGEROUS lights for any serious or rural night driving. Add halogen or seal beam lamps to compensate for the other weaknesses and the current draw goes up considerably. Now you are pushing that old generator. Start adding extra light, air conditioning, etc., and an alternator is a must.
12 VOLT CONVERSION
This is also becoming more common. 12 Volt systems require 1/2 the "conduit" for a specific current draw meaning smaller wires can be used and is less susceptible to poor grounds that are common with partially restored cars. More efficient? yes. Practical advantage over a good restored 6 volt system? No. Again, if you are choosing to load up on things like sound system, air conditioning, etc., you should make the conversion.
DISTRIBUTOR
I'm still not clear why this is such a difficult item for most, but it is. When it is proper all it requires readjusting the points every few thousand miles which takes 2-3 minutes with stock setup. I've found I change the points 5-10k miles. I can't imagine there are NO good replacements available, but it may be the case. There are many that convert to modern points and condensers to get the condensers away from the "heat". The heat is generated by the exhaust manifold. The manifold only gets excessively hot when the timing is too far retarded and can be worse if the fuel mixture is too lean. Even Les Andrews promotes the modernized setup which seems strange to me since he lives in similar climate to me and I've driven long distances at 106-107° without incident. I must add however that I read one of his instructions for timing and the end result would be around 5° retarded which would certainly contribute. Ford offered a heat shield beginning late 1929 that is currently reproduced. It was "for hot climates only" as I'm sure they found many owners needed extra help for reasons I can only speculate.
The electronic conversions are another modern "nicety". They will "ignore" the excessive slop and eccentric cams and/or shafts found in most "rebuilt" distributors. They will provide no improved performance over a good original within the modern operating range (I've only tested to about 3400 rpm). However they can provide an improvement over what is commonly accepted as rebuilt. They will also eliminate the occasional inspection for those that don't wish to lift the distributor cap. However, you should still be adding oil to the distributor bushings so why not a 60 second visual inspection at the same time? I know, it's tough!
WATER PUMP
This is an area that also functioned well but is more difficult to restore with what we have to work with. The packing works fine when shaft to bushing clearances are good and end play is restricted to the .008" limit Ford Specified. Modern packing has been less than ideal but I believe there is some good split ring packing available now. I happen to have a fairly clean engine compartment and want to keep it that way. I don't want ANY dripping if possible. I did machine my original rear bushing to accept two small lip seals and have original packing under the packing nut for backup if the lip seals fail. Necessary? No. Cleaner? Yes. There are some sealed pumps available that folks on the board swear by. They also eliminate the need to control end play making them a very simple "bolt on" that I assume looks the same. Not a bad idea in my opinion.
THERMOSTAT
Here's a fun one. No question this is a technical improvement that should improve wear characteristics by bringing everything up to optimal temperatures. Original engines were designed to operate at an average of 170° and got a bit sloppy from wear in the cylinder bores between 60k and 70k miles while still having good bearings at the bottom end. You may be able to improve on that some, but most don't get close. Most people add the thermostat merely to slow the water flow because of poor repro radiators. I don't know if anyone builds a core today with near the capacity of originals so your margin of error will likely be reduced and if you get a bad one you will have to redesign the system somewhat. I can't believe there is nothing good enough though.
CONCLUSION
This is a sampling of common modifications and there are many more. Are any of them necessary or safer? Not in my opinion. I do favor seals in places where minor leaks were originally considered acceptable. They never bothered me with the old "driver" that got parked outside and driven daily. My feelings are different with a clean restoration and a garage floor I prefer to keep fairly clean. Necessary? Not at all. Simply MY choice and I make no apologies for it.
Interest in alterations and individualizing automobiles is as old as automobiles themselves and there is nothing wrong with that. If I wanted my "A" painted pink you can bet your life I would do it! I do however resist alterations done under the false premise of "need" or "improvement" when clearly untrue. There is also nothing wrong with expediency and side-stepping a problem instead of solving it and understanding the reasons for it. I do however think it a shame to teach novices and others that these are THE solutions simply to approximate the original quality inherent in the design of the car.
Do what you really want and feel good about it because you're the one that needs to be happy. Doing anything else is foolish at best and I'd lean towards calling it stupid to do otherwise. Just don't do it to please others if it conflicts with your own desires.
1. Put a fuse in the electrical system. Most suppliers sell a small fuse that mounts on the generator. It’s cheap insurance. (check the quality, some fuses have caused problems jm)
2. Get a heat baffle that shields the distributor from the exhaust manifold heat. Be sure to get the stainless steel one, it will look good forever. The heat from the exhaust manifold is hard on the condenser. Even after installing the shield, carry an extra condenser under the seat and buy only the highest quality condenser you can get.
3. Check the water pump, if there is any sign of leakage, replace it with a pack less pump (don’t cut corners here, buy a good one).
5. Check the fan. If it is an original fan check carefully for fatigue cracks. Feel the blade for signs of rust inside between the layers of metal. Consider one of the reproduction aluminum fan blades. Also the 1933-4 fan (4 blades) is a good replacement for the Model A 2 blade but they are also old and subject to fatigue failures. (MY FAN PAGE)
6. Install a right hand taillight. Most cars came with only a left taillight and are therefore legal (in most states) with only one light but they are sure a lot safer with two. The lights are small compared to modern cars so every little bit helps. Excellent reproduction lights and brackets are available for making this change.
The preceding are probably the best bang for your buck changes and this might be a good place to stop making changes. Changes are definitely an example of "more is not better". While a few changes tend to "personalize" the car, too many changes soon destroy the character of the car. Now for a few more changes. Keep in mind that the necessity for these changes is highly dependent on how you use “your” Model A.
7. Turn signals. Kits are available from suppliers. In today’s traffic hand signals are marginal during the day but not worth much at night.
8. Headlights. The original reflectors were silver plated and tended to tarnish. If you try to polish yours remember that silver is soft and requires a very fine polish formulated for use on silver. Plating companies can resilver your original reflectors or some companies like Uvira [(541) 474-5050] replate your reflectors with aluminum and then apply a coat of glass (trust me, this comes out a lot better than it sounds, this technology is used on mirrors to dissipate heat from communications satellites in space). Are they expensive? Yes. Are they cheaper than hitting something in the road at night due to poor headlights? Probably. Avoid the chrome-plated reflectors available from some suppliers, as they do not reflect enough light. Be sure all of your grounds are good. Apply a drop of solder on the wire connectors at the bottom of the steering column if there is still a problem. If you need really good lights consider changing the car to 12 volts and going to halogen bulbs using an adapter or the high intensity 12-volt bulbs that go into the original sockets that are available from the Ron Francis Wire Works [(800) 292-1940]. When making the change to 12 volts it is most common to use the alternators available from many of the suppliers. If and when I convert my Model A to 12 volts I intend to try to use a 1955-64 Ford 12 volt generator. I feel a generator looks more like it belongs on a Model A.
9. Hydraulic brakes. Never discuss hydraulic brakes with a purist.(!!!jm) Never discuss politics (vote counting), religion or hydraulic brakes in mixed company. My personal opinion is that a good set of 1939-49 hydraulic brakes properly installed is a major safety improvement if you intend to drive the car very much or very fast. After having said all of that, I will admit that when I got my 1931 Roadster Pickup the hydraulic brakes were so poorly installed that I converted back mechanical brakes because they would be safer. If you choose to stay with the mechanical brakes consider putting “bands” on the steel brake drums. These are available as reproductions but may frequently be found on otherwise scrap used drums. Another good choice for the mechanical brake system is to use cast iron brake drums. These came out in late 1931 but originals are so rare that you will probably end up buying reproductions.
10. If you would like a few extra horsepower consider a higher compression head. This could take the form of using a 1932-34 head (with its associated 3 bolt water pump), an original Model A high performance “police” head (with a block B cast into the head), a head from Brumfield, or a high compression head from Snyders. These heads are only slightly above the stock compression ratio and can be bolted onto a stock engine without other modifications. If you increase the compression beyond what you get from these heads be sure you understand what other modifications you should make to the engine. If you want to go beyond this in increasing the horsepower there is a chapter (FAST) of the MARC and MAFCA clubs that is dedicated to speed equipment. Information on speed equipment is also available from the Secrets of Speed Society (SOSS)(cy4fn@aol.com).
11. If your rear end ratio is 4.11:1 consider going to a 3.54:1 rear end ratio. If you have a good rear end with a 3.78:1 ratio it would probably not be worth changing. If you have to rebuild the rear end for other reasons definitely go to the 3.54:1 ratio when you have it apart. A recent posting pointed out how small the change in RPM is for a given speed between the 3.78:1 and 3.54:1 ratios. I double-checked the math and it was right. All I know is that my Roadster Pick-up with a 3.54:1 ratio sure runs better than my roadster with a 3.78:1 ratio using the same engine in both vehicles.
12. If other family members are going to drive the car a 1932-34 distributor (or an aftermarket) with automatic advance might be a good idea. If you start the car with the spark lever down you risk breaking the Bendix drive on the starter motor.
This is the point at which I would stop making changes based on the way I use a Model A but there a couple of more you might consider if your situation warrants it.
1. If you have a closed car and live in a hot climate you might consider one of the firewall insulator kits sold by most suppliers. They are patterned after the firewall insulators Ford used beginning in 1932. They are not original but look like they belong there to an untrained eye.
2. A nice change if other family members are driving the car would be the later model Borg Warner transmission with full syncros. I am the only one driving my car and I personally think the original transmission is fine but I have driving Model A’s for the last 40 years.
3. A final concession to other family members (or maybe yourself if you have arthritis) would be to replace the original steering with an F1 pickup steering. This change is not visible without lifting the hood and then it is only visible if you know what you are looking for. Note that this is a bolt in type of change that can be reversed if someone desires to restore the car in the future. If I chose to rebuild the original steering because it needed it, I would suggest going to needle bearings on the sector shaft. I can’t prove they work but I have them in my steering and it works well.
Best of luck and welcome to the hobby,
Charlie Stephens
Closing comments by me (Jim Mason)
One of the points that I stress is point 5. Decided early on what you are going to do with the car. If you plan on fine point judging, reproduction parts are out. If you plan on driving your car and never show it...I still wouldn't use any more repop parts than absolutely necessary. Attending swap meets, meeting with people, and the enjoyment of the hunt, is an important and very enjoyable part of the hobby. Many find that when they have 'finished' a car, they no longer have the interest in it that they had, and sell it in order to buy another to work on. One recommendation some people make is to buy one to drive, and one to restore..if time, money and space allows, this may be a good answer.
Being a more of a purist than some, I would not make the same recommendations for modifications, and actually disagree with some of the modifications mentioned. I prefer to drive unmodified cars.
AS SAID IN THE ANSWER ABOVE...POLITICS, RELIGION, AND MODIFICATIONS CAN'T BE SUCCESFULLY ARGUED.
YOU WILL CHANGE THE ARGUEMENTS BUT NOT THE OPINIONS
While true that inherent in the design, the Model A engine will have more vibration than a modern engine, the engine should be smooth running. If care is not taken in matching the weights of the power train parts, and in balancing the engine/flywheel and other components undue vibrations can occur. Again, become familiar with a well restored vehicle to be able to judge the quality of any work done on your purchase.
Properly restored, and maintained, mechanical brakes, manual advance distributors, non-synchro transmissions, steering boxes etc. can and have given years of excellent service. The 'trick' is to bring them all back to factory specs and keep them that way (actually RESTORE THE VEHICLE, NOT JUST REPAIR OR MAKE DO OR PERFORM A MESSTORATION .
And Here is Marco's rebuttal:
Re: Modern upgrades - The Long Version!
by Marco Tahtaras
Folks don't like to here this due to the inferences, but here goes.
GENERATOR
I rebuilt my own so I know it will be good for 100k miles or more. The generator will do everything it is supposed to and do it well. The only time I ever changed the charging rate was when I was going to drive more than 100 miles after dark. I did have to change the battery after four years.
GENERATOR CUTOUT
Originals are fine and properly done diode conversions should be fine (I've never tried one). The repros were junk in the 70's and likely the same today. A cutout is LESS than ideal unless you either drive the car very regularly, or keep it on a battery tender when not in use.
For everyone else I'd recommend a voltage regulator. There are two types and I've heard great things about both. The first (Vince's choice) mounts on the inside of the band and is wired into the generator. The second looks like and replaces the cutout. It's not clear to me how this one works, but I've heard nothing but good and intend to try one myself since I just don't get to drive my cars daily at the present time. Both of these allow for a much higher charging rate only when needed similar to an alternator.
ALTERNATOR
Simply not needed for most of us. They have the potential for much greater output which I'll never need. The Generator handles everything nicely even under my current "limited use" conditions. If you start making changes that can all change. For example, many folks have old or chrome repro headlamp reflectors with poor reflectivity. Add this to poor focus and the results are DANGEROUS lights for any serious or rural night driving. Add halogen or seal beam lamps to compensate for the other weaknesses and the current draw goes up considerably. Now you are pushing that old generator. Start adding extra light, air conditioning, etc., and an alternator is a must.
12 VOLT CONVERSION
This is also becoming more common. 12 Volt systems require 1/2 the "conduit" for a specific current draw meaning smaller wires can be used and is less susceptible to poor grounds that are common with partially restored cars. More efficient? yes. Practical advantage over a good restored 6 volt system? No. Again, if you are choosing to load up on things like sound system, air conditioning, etc., you should make the conversion.
DISTRIBUTOR
I'm still not clear why this is such a difficult item for most, but it is. When it is proper all it requires readjusting the points every few thousand miles which takes 2-3 minutes with stock setup. I've found I change the points 5-10k miles. I can't imagine there are NO good replacements available, but it may be the case. There are many that convert to modern points and condensers to get the condensers away from the "heat". The heat is generated by the exhaust manifold. The manifold only gets excessively hot when the timing is too far retarded and can be worse if the fuel mixture is too lean. Even Les Andrews promotes the modernized setup which seems strange to me since he lives in similar climate to me and I've driven long distances at 106-107° without incident. I must add however that I read one of his instructions for timing and the end result would be around 5° retarded which would certainly contribute. Ford offered a heat shield beginning late 1929 that is currently reproduced. It was "for hot climates only" as I'm sure they found many owners needed extra help for reasons I can only speculate.
The electronic conversions are another modern "nicety". They will "ignore" the excessive slop and eccentric cams and/or shafts found in most "rebuilt" distributors. They will provide no improved performance over a good original within the modern operating range (I've only tested to about 3400 rpm). However they can provide an improvement over what is commonly accepted as rebuilt. They will also eliminate the occasional inspection for those that don't wish to lift the distributor cap. However, you should still be adding oil to the distributor bushings so why not a 60 second visual inspection at the same time? I know, it's tough!
WATER PUMP
This is an area that also functioned well but is more difficult to restore with what we have to work with. The packing works fine when shaft to bushing clearances are good and end play is restricted to the .008" limit Ford Specified. Modern packing has been less than ideal but I believe there is some good split ring packing available now. I happen to have a fairly clean engine compartment and want to keep it that way. I don't want ANY dripping if possible. I did machine my original rear bushing to accept two small lip seals and have original packing under the packing nut for backup if the lip seals fail. Necessary? No. Cleaner? Yes. There are some sealed pumps available that folks on the board swear by. They also eliminate the need to control end play making them a very simple "bolt on" that I assume looks the same. Not a bad idea in my opinion.
THERMOSTAT
Here's a fun one. No question this is a technical improvement that should improve wear characteristics by bringing everything up to optimal temperatures. Original engines were designed to operate at an average of 170° and got a bit sloppy from wear in the cylinder bores between 60k and 70k miles while still having good bearings at the bottom end. You may be able to improve on that some, but most don't get close. Most people add the thermostat merely to slow the water flow because of poor repro radiators. I don't know if anyone builds a core today with near the capacity of originals so your margin of error will likely be reduced and if you get a bad one you will have to redesign the system somewhat. I can't believe there is nothing good enough though.
CONCLUSION
This is a sampling of common modifications and there are many more. Are any of them necessary or safer? Not in my opinion. I do favor seals in places where minor leaks were originally considered acceptable. They never bothered me with the old "driver" that got parked outside and driven daily. My feelings are different with a clean restoration and a garage floor I prefer to keep fairly clean. Necessary? Not at all. Simply MY choice and I make no apologies for it.
Interest in alterations and individualizing automobiles is as old as automobiles themselves and there is nothing wrong with that. If I wanted my "A" painted pink you can bet your life I would do it! I do however resist alterations done under the false premise of "need" or "improvement" when clearly untrue. There is also nothing wrong with expediency and side-stepping a problem instead of solving it and understanding the reasons for it. I do however think it a shame to teach novices and others that these are THE solutions simply to approximate the original quality inherent in the design of the car.
Do what you really want and feel good about it because you're the one that needs to be happy. Doing anything else is foolish at best and I'd lean towards calling it stupid to do otherwise. Just don't do it to please others if it conflicts with your own desires.
Mountain Dew
Senior Member
Come on Jerry, (if you love living) get out of your rocking chair and off the porch. Ride a motorcycle or try skydiving. A Model A Ford is not as dangerous as you make it sound.
1931 flamingo
Well-known member
Jim: Your post #50 just about sums it up.
Paul in CT
Paul in CT
jerry shook
Well-known member
Mountain due. I love living , drive my model a rocking chair all the time people around home say you sure enjoy your a every time i see you you are in it . Just drove it to florence sc passed cars on the interstate . Ran the darlington speed way at 75 mph. Loce my rocking chair a with add ons. I also have one with out any add ones i put, put around in .
jerry shook
Well-known member
Let me add, at the show at florence, out of the 95 to 100 model a"s that was there and i looked at i never saw one that did not have add on"s or up grades. The majority of them had a lot of add one"s. I guess they ( love living) and driving there rocking chair a"s.
Mike V. Florida
Well-known member
That will be a change.
Mike V. Florida
Well-known member
Still miss your website. There are still many sites out there that have (now defunct) links to your old site.