All lights on 1 switch question

CC-Mo

Member
Ok guys, don't flame me but my '30 Sedan had all lights, headlights-cowl-tail on a toggle switch when I purchased it.
I've since refurbished the cowl sockets, ran new crossover wire, got everything cleaned up.
One switch, they all come on. A minor victory for me!
Question is, I see no fuse in the system. Is this normal-ok?
For now the car is just a country driver, not even tagged. I've just been doing normal maintenance from the 35 year storage of the car. It's actually running well and is a fun project.
Any insight appreciated. Thanks guys.
 
That means that there is probably no light switch at the bottom of the column. A lot were taken off. Put a fuse in that circuit.
 
Always put in a fuse. The easy way is to put one at the starter switch, it feeds everything else. I prefer a circuit breaker, so if it trips, your lights will come back on in a few seconds. You might also want to but a dimmer switch on the floor to switch from low to high beam, or not?
 
At this point he could put a fuse box in that uses modern tab fuses and make different circuits so that one fail doesn't kill the whole system. I am building an off road truck and plan on something along those lines. I would like to use the original horn button.
 
Switches need to be rated for the amount of amps of current flow that will be going through it. If it's a purpose made automobile universal light switch then it should handle the load. Toggle switches are available in a lot of load applications and the good ones will have that printed on them somewhere. I bring this up because I've seen some pretty small cheapy switches used for high load applications where they got hot and melted the switch.

Ford just used the multi switch controlled from the steering wheel and it has separate contactors for the different light circuits so that it can take the load. It mounts on the bottom of the steering gear as was mentioned so it's close to the power connection on the generator and also close to the headlamps & horn. Ford used this switch design clear up into the late 30s.
 
At this point he could put a fuse box in that uses modern tab fuses and make different circuits so that one fail doesn't kill the whole system. I am building an off road truck and plan on something along those lines. I would like to use the original horn button.

I am reluctant to post this because I have been criticized in the past but... I did install a fuse box on the inside of the firewall just above the junction box. I have fused the turn signals, fog lights and Sport Lite, along with a 12v outlet for my GPS or iPhone. I also have a 30a circuit breaker at the starter and another 20a circuit breaker for the lighting circuit.

Maybe overkill but at least the car is protected.


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Blockhead, that looks good to me. For a car that's driven not just trailered to shows, fuses for individual circuits is a good way to keep from walking home in the dark. Now, maybe get some auto reset breakers that will plug in there instead of the fuses.
 
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