Alignment 40 ford

Assuming you mean wheel alignment, the allignment that you need to adjust will be Toe-in, that being the difference between the front of the front tires to the distance between the rear of front tires. Start with checking tire pressure, then on a flat, smooth, level driveway, drive forward and back while adjusting a straight ahead path. Check your steering wheel alignment to the straight ahead path, and adjust as required.
Now, the car in position to jack up the front end slightly off the ground with parking brakes set, spin a wheel while marking the tread in a line of chalk, ignoring the tread itself, just a straight line while spinning.
Now with a jig to hold position, spin again and mark that chalk line accurately with a lead pencil. (The chalk is only to highlight the fine line of the pencil mark.) The resulting line around each tire will produce an accurate determination of toe-in the alignment you will address. The goal will be to take a measurement halfway up the diameter of the tire from one pencil line to the other, comparing measurements at a location on the marked line at the front to measurements at a comparable location at the rear of the tires.
Lower the front to rest with several layers of newspaper under each front tire, and lightly bounce the bumper down a couple times to allow the tires to settle into position properly. The newspapers allow free movement of the tires to settle correctly.
Now, take a 1"x"4 of a width to span the wheels, and fasten an upright solidly to the flat laying 1"x4" at approximately the same width of your track, a pointer on one upright and a 6" rule fastened to the top of the other. Set the pointer on one pencilled tire mark at the rear, and note the position of the 6" rule at the other. (The construction of this jig will be determined by obstructions such as the fenders and frame, which would prevent the 1"x4" from spanning at the axle hieght.)
Move the measurement jig to the front of the tires and take the same measurement, comparing front to back measurements. Adjust as required to make the front mesurement read ⅛" less than the rear. Bounce the front end slightly to settle the tires for confirmation, and you're good to go.
 
I do similar to Allen, but I made a pipe thingy with adjustable sliding pointers, and I like to run tape around the tire to mark on so you don't bump into the tread pattern while marking the line
 

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ford38v8 said:
You're very optimistic that the "Technicians" they hire have actually obtained their GED Certificates, aren't you?
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The alignment equiptment they use today does all the work. My Model A Ford and 1948 Plymouth both have great alignments from local shops.
 
I took my '46 Coupe to the local Ford Dealer to have the toe-in checked/set. They asked for the alignment specs, which I provided, they had to convert the toe in to degrees from inches, which was not an issue for the Tech. The only issue was that the Tech had me drive it onto the alignment machine, because he couldn't drive a standard.
 

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51woodie said:
I took my '46 Coupe to the local Ford Dealer to have the toe-in checked/set. They asked for the alignment specs, which I provided, they had to convert the toe in to degrees from inches, which was not an issue for the Tech. The only issue was that the Tech had me drive it onto the alignment machine, because he couldn't drive a standard.
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567963
 
Most small to medium trucks these days are automatics. In 1999, when I bought my last company truck, I wanted a 6 cylinder 5 speed. I had to go to 3 different dealers before I found one; I still have it.
 
cas3 said:
Thats incredible that any one working at an auto shop can not drive a stick!!!!
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What’s incredible to me is so many “avid” car collectors who entrust their cars every day common service to pimple faced dropouts in quickie oil change outfits and brake shops that never saw a drum brake system till they get hold of your car. They sit in the waiting room playing games on their phones because they aren’t allowed in the garage. These simple, enjoyable maintenance tasks are what real car guys do in their man caves to get away from the little woman.
 
I was driving the ol' mans VW bug around the yard at 12. Killed the grass in a circle around the house. Mom was not impressed.
 
In reality there is only one thing you can check and adjust. The toe in. It wants to be between 1/16" and 1/8". Looking at the pic of the car on the alignment ramp I wonder what info the rear sensors gave? It's a solid rear axle. Camber and toe can only be zero. Caster is also zero. They were obviously just going through the motions without realising it was not necessary. Or wanted to charge for a full vehicle alignment. I use a vintage set of Dunlop alignment gauges and they do a great job.
 
after installing new rack in a vintage British sports car, i just eyeballed the toe-in. then drove it 20 miles to the local Big-O. and then had them set it to 1/16".
 
We had a neat 1950's Snap-On toe-in gauge at the phone company. I have been looking for one like it for twenty years for home use. It was made out of 1" square tubing with cast ends on each end that held it up about 6-inches off the ground. One end was fixed, and the other end was adjustable. You slid it behind the front wheels, so the ends were up against the side walls and set it to zero. Then you pulled it out and moved it around to the front of the tires, unlocked the zero setting and read the gauge. We used it a lot to set toe-in, it was fast, and it worked great until one day somebody (not me) left it behind the front tires and back out. It broke the casted stand on one end. We Mickey Moused it together and it still worked but the poor tool never looked the same afterwards. I almost took with me when I retired but they needed it. Today they sell ones that do the same thing, but they are junk compared to that 1950s one we had in the shop. You could easily make one, there wasn't much to it.
 
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