Airtex fuel pumps

Obviously if you use the switch, you've got to provide power to the pump until you've got oil pressure (probably before cranking to fill the carb). Older Chrysler products had a timing relay that energized the pump for 5 seconds after the ignition was energized, or when the starter was activated. That would be perfect but I can't find one.

http://www.holley.com/12-810.asp[/QUOTE]

Thanks Ross....but I've got a '40 Coupe and was just wondering where people prefer to pull the power for the switch, or pump? From the coil side of the ignition switch? Should a relay be used if not using the Holley switch?
Joe
 
Joe AZ said:
I've got a '40 Coupe and was just wondering where people prefer to pull the power for the switch, or pump? From the coil side of the ignition switch? Should a relay be used if not using the Holley switch?
Joe
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The pump does not pull enough current to need a relay for that reason. If you're not going to use an inertia kill switch you can pull the power from the coil or accessories terminal of the ignition switch.
 
I installed a NZ made one and it is the best thing I ever did. Only use it for priming and is activated by a spring loaded momentary switch so it cant be left on in error.

GB
 
Old Henry said:
The pump does not pull enough current to need a relay for that reason. If you're not going to use an inertia kill switch you can pull the power from the coil or accessories terminal of the ignition switch.
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I agree with Prof. Taking the power from the coil side of the switch means the pump switch can't be operated with out the ignition lever flicked up into the on position.

GB
 
Thank you for the information. I was working yesterday on the fuel system of my '46 Ford, and just removed a Walbro PEG electric fuel pump dated "1-67", so I will be buying an Airtex unit and a regulator.
 
Got mine from Amazon too, great price, per Planojc's post. I had a Carter that I rigged for bypass with a one way valve previously. Why I didn't go with the Airtex before I will never know, With the Carter you had to have it on all the time even with the bypass. Since I have installed the Airtex, it runs on the mechanical pump all the time and the Airtex serves to prime when I let it set for a couple of days or more. This is the first time in 4 years it has run on the mechanical pump by its self and it was great.
 

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I installed a Carter (2-4 psi) pump near the tank with a switch. If I leave it on it does not flood the three 97's, but gas weeps from the diaphragm on the mechanical pump. Took the mechanical apart and saw no issues and put back together and tightened the screws as much as practical. It still weeps. Am reluctant to use a sealer on the diaphragm. What to do?:confused:
 
Roger:

My mechanical pump did the same thing. It will be interesting to see if it still keeps doing it now that I will be useing just the mechanical pump 99% of the time. Possible the electric pump was a but strong for the mechanical pump seals.
 
Hey guys, cant remember the exact cost but I do know it was much cheaper at www.rockauto.com I bought mine a few years back and no regrets to date. BTW I wired a switch off ignition acc on my 40.
 
When you install an electric pump why do you leave the manual pump, is it just for look"s ?. Can you use the carter brand 2-4 psi sold by mac"s like the airtex ? Will it pump thru the manual pump if it stops ?. An if the electric pump stops well the manual pull thru the electric ?. Lot of questions i know but i am new to the v/8 flat head.
 
I need the mechanical pump to connect the stainless fuel lines as shown. The problem is the electrical pump will cause gas to weep out of the diaphram when left on past priming the pump.The mechanical pump is sold by Amazon for$35.
 

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No gas should leak around fuel pump diaphragm if all is well with the pump. If fuel is leaking with electric pump running then it will be sucking air when the mechanical is in use.
 
jerry shook said:
When you install an electric pump why do you leave the manual pump, is it just for look"s ?. Can you use the carter brand 2-4 psi sold by mac"s like the airtex ? Will it pump thru the manual pump if it stops ?. An if the electric pump stops well the manual pull thru the electric ?. Lot of questions i know but i am new to the v/8 flat head.
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The carter pump will not let the mechanical pump pull through it when the electric pump is off.

Two pumps is the principle of redundancy. The mechanical pump is used until vapor lock or fails when the electric pump is ready for back up. If only the electric pump and it fails you're dead in the water.
 
Roger/Sacramento said:
I need the mechanical pump to connect the stainless fuel lines as shown. The problem is the electrical pump will cause gas to weep out of the diaphram when left on past priming the pump.The mechanical pump is sold by Amazon for$35.
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There is no electric pump that will self limit to the 3.5 psi limit of the carb floats. So, any electric pump used more than just momentarily/intermittently requires a pressure regulator.
 
Another question. A lot of people go to 12 volt. My car is still 6-v is the airtex e8902 for 6-v. I won"t to order one an won"t to be sure.
 
Old Henry said:
The carter pump will not let the mechanical pump pull through it when the electric pump is off.

On my 8BA F1 the mechanical pump did pull fuel through the Carter pump (turned off), but only up to a speed of about 35 mph. After that the restriction inherent in the the Carter pump would not allow enough fuel to be supplied. This is why I had to install a bi-pass valve. I only use the electric pump to prime the carburettor - required if my pickup has not run for more than 3 days.
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