Airtex E8902 Debacle

Just for the record, Pertronix recommends the spiral wound ignition cables, not carbon. You can get them in 7mm diameter, which will fit through the looms. 9mm will not.

Thanks. That's good to know if I ever go back to electronic ignition. Points ignition is working just fine now.
 
I put an Airtex pump on a Curtis Munoz that has a Cad with three two barrel carbs.
It is very quiet and does the job, however that was fifteen years ago.
I have installed maybe thirty or more cheap pumps and they all worked just as well, but make more noise.
My F1 V8 has no stock pump. I run it on a cheap electric pump.
I had the local radiator shop run two fuel lines out the top of the tank that is behind the seat. One main used line is about four inches short of reaching the bottom of the tank. The other line goes to the bottom corner of the right end of the tank.
When I run out of gas on the main line I switch over to the other line which has its own fuel pump.
That way I have a reserve fuel supply and also an emergency pump is case the main one quits.
Both pumps are mounted on the left fram rail beside the engine.
They pull gas from the bottom of the tank out the top and down to the pumps with no problem.
If I run them dry they don’t need to be primed.
I paid $20 for each pump. I’ve been using the truck that way for five years.
I would guess I’ve installed another thirty or forty cheap pumps in the fuel line between the tank and mechanical pump just to prime the carb when I worked for a car collector that had 400 cars, half of which were Fords and Mercury’s with 6 Lincoln V12s.
Also did three on flathead Cadillacs as those cars are known for starving fuel on steep mountain roads.
 
If you are installing on a 6 volt + ground you must reverse the wires. I installed one 15 years ago (still working) and I believe the instructions of that old pump mentioned switching wires when + ground.
 
If you are installing on a 6 volt + ground you must reverse the wires. I installed one 15 years ago (still working) and I believe the instructions of that old pump mentioned switching wires when + ground.

I have read and reread the installation/operation instructions for my Airtex E8902 electric fuel pump dozens of times and nowhere does it mention reversing the -/+ wire connections to accommodate a 6 volt positive ground electrical system. Heck, I even spoke with an Airtex technical support guy and he was completely baffled. Thank the good Lord that he gave me the wisdom to figure this out on my own days into the install. I'm just saying that it's inexcusable for companies like Airtex and Pertronics not to include this information with their products made specifically for older automobiles with 6 volt electrical systems.

Do I like my Airtex pump? Oh heck yes! It pumps like crazy and is super quiet.
 

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You know when these Ford V8 cars were new (and for many years after) they ran like a train and gained a reputation for power and reliability. And now all sorts of problems arise because of poor maintenance and tired old components and modifications and lack of knowledge in how to repair them. Electronic ignitions, electric fuel pumps and 12 volt systems should not be required. The Ford cars were a work of art that's why we love them. Don't sidestep the problems with modifications, fix it correctly. Regards, Kevin.
 
Here's how I rigged the one on my '48. I have since replaced the clamps with better ones and the pump pictured with an AIRTEX E8016S. I still intend to install a shutoff valve before the filter. I do not use a mechanical pump at all. It's wired through an oil pressure safety switch and then to the ignition switch. My cold start routine is to turn the key to the accessory position and listen for the pumping to slow, pull the choke and turn the key to start.
 

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You know when these Ford V8 cars were new (and for many years after) they ran like a train and gained a reputation for power and reliability. And now all sorts of problems arise because of poor maintenance and tired old components and modifications and lack of knowledge in how to repair them. Electronic ignitions, electric fuel pumps and 12 volt systems should not be required. The Ford cars were a work of art that's why we love them. Don't sidestep the problems with modifications, fix it correctly. Regards, Kevin.

Very well said and I could not agree with you more. My new Airtex E8902 pumps like a Texas oil well, but I don't believe that it has helped appreciably with my hard starting problem. My continuing problem could very well be as simple as a bad power/economizer valve. I have tried many, both the re-machined "gold standard' one and the ones without pedigrees. Neither keep my carb float bowl full enough of fuel and neither show evidence of leaking. Maybe I just need to buy a few more of each on the premise that one just might actually work and finally solve the problem?
 
Al, I am an auto electrician retired and the first thing I think about when fitting electrical components is weather it is polarity specific. Those Airtex pumps only connect one way and are marked as such. Positive ground cars can screw up your thinking. I have fitted a few of these pumps to vintage cars and they work very well. With your carb problem, unbolt it off your engine an sit it on your clean workbench. Fill the float bowl and leave it sit for a day or two and watch for leaks. Good luck, Regards Kevin.
 
Al, I am an auto electrician retired and the first thing I think about when fitting electrical components is weather it is polarity specific. Those Airtex pumps only connect one way and are marked as such. Positive ground cars can screw up your thinking. I have fitted a few of these pumps to vintage cars and they work very well. With your carb problem, unbolt it off your engine an sit it on your clean workbench. Fill the float bowl and leave it sit for a day or two and watch for leaks. Good luck, Regards Kevin.

That's what's so frustrating. I've had two different carbs on the workbench numerous times and neither have ever shown evidence of leaking. And yet, at least one third of the float bowl fuel disappears overnight with the top of the carb left in place. Go figure.
 
Has anyone found a source for the Airtex E8902 fuel pump recently?

After placing a few calls, I learned that Airtex was punched by Trico, and officially went out of business in Jan of 2023. They also punched Carter.

I would like to buy one, for a back up to the one I currently have installed, and has worked perfectly for the last 12 years.

Thank you,

Roy
 

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I use a "momentary" toggle switch to activate my Airtex E8902 pump. Just hold the switch in the "on" position until the engine starts...then release the switch and it will automatically switch to the "off" position. Often times I hold the toggle switch in the "on" position for 5 to 10 seconds (after the car has been sitting for several months) then release the switch and then try the ignition and the car usually starts right up.

Pat

Same here Pat

GB
 
Has anyone found a source for the Airtex E8902 fuel pump recently?

After placing a few calls, I learned that Airtex was punched by Trico, and officially went out of business in Jan of 2023. They also punched Carter.

I would like to buy one, for a back up to the one I currently have installed, and has worked perfectly for the last 12 years.

Thank you,

Roy
One of my old co-workers from when I worked at NTN Bearing works there-
First Brands Group is the new name for Trico. They acquired a bunch of companies, starting a few years ago. As with all such acquisitions, product lines are "rationalized," based upon total sales. Low sales "velocity" equals good bye part. That's why certain items go the way of the dodo bird.
Even at half the pay, I'm happy to be out of that industry after 30-odd years of that crap....

https://www.linkedin.com/company/first-brands-llc/
 
I use Fasco (Bendix) electric fuel pumps. Reliable.

I wasn't aware FASCO made fuel pumps. They are a HVAC source only to my knowledge.
Might you be referring to FACET ? I believe they were a fuel pump manufacturer for Bendix OE and aftermarket.
 
I use a "momentary" toggle switch to activate my Airtex E8902 pump. Just hold the switch in the "on" position until the engine starts...then release the switch and it will automatically switch to the "off" position. Often times I hold the toggle switch in the "on" position for 5 to 10 seconds (after the car has been sitting for several months) then release the switch and then try the ignition and the car usually starts right up.

Pat

I'm doing it similarly. I picked up a single pole double throw switch, one of the on positions is momentary. I power the pump for priming using that momentary position which is connected to the accessory side of the ignition switch. The other (continuous) on position is connected to the ignition side of the ignition switch through the oil pressure switch. The center off position totally turns off the pump. I can use that to run the carb dry at the end of the day and make the car a bit harder to figure out to steal.
 
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