Air Maze Oil

D

Dennis D 1929

Member
Got a new Air Maze for my '29 Coupe, as the barn find came with no air cleaner. Wondering what to oil the screen with. Was thinking just to use 30wt. motor oil. Would that work OK ? Thanks in advance !
 
Any oil is better than no oil, but I would think that the special foam filter oil would be the best, as it is really clingy and would stick to the mesh better. Just my opinion.
 
They didn't come with an air cleaner.


This is from Renners Corner.


"One last item is NEVER use an air cleaner of ANY type on any carb for the Model A !!!

ALL of the carbs released for the A had the float bowl vented externally.

Carbs that use an air cleaner are internally vented.

What happens when and air cleaner is installed it creates restriction, thats what trapping dirt does.

The engine doesn't now this and is still pulling huge volumes of air so what happens since it can't get it thru the air opening

is that it pulls it thru the float bowl vent, and supper speeds it thru the jets causing a super rich uncontrolled air to fuel mixture.

We can fix this problem if you must run a filter, its called pressure balancing.

We plug the stock vent and machine a path thru the carb relocating the vent to the choke plate area.

This way the engine can only get its air from one place.

Our roads today are way better than 80 years ago so I wouldn't worry you won't wear your engine out in your lifetime."
 
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If it is the wire mesh type cleaner immerse it in any motor oil, then hang it up for a few hours to dry. Then install. Wash it out once or twice a year and repeat. The original style mesh has almost no restriction of air intake but when you wash it out you will be amazed at the amount of dirt you get.
 
This issue has been discussed in numerous posts, read the below and make your own decision


https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=221691

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=216058

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=211210

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=209923

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=205402

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=142421

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=142838

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=119231

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=119203

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=108962

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=95961

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...=239089&page=2

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=221751
 
Renners' Corners' advice is for the MASS of people who don't know HOW to fabricate a proper vent, for use with a slightly restrictive AIR FILTER!
Bill W.
 
Bob C said:
They didn't come with an air cleaner.


This is from Renners Corner.


"One last item is NEVER use an air cleaner of ANY type on any carb for the Model A !!!

ALL of the carbs released for the A had the float bowl vented externally.

Carbs that use an air cleaner are internally vented.

What happens when and air cleaner is installed it creates restriction, thats what trapping dirt does.

The engine doesn't now this and is still pulling huge volumes of air so what happens since it can't get it thru the air opening

is that it pulls it thru the float bowl vent, and supper speeds it thru the jets causing a super rich uncontrolled air to fuel mixture.

We can fix this problem if you must run a filter, its called pressure balancing.

We plug the stock vent and machine a path thru the carb relocating the vent to the choke plate area.

This way the engine can only get its air from one place.

Our roads today are way better than 80 years ago so I wouldn't worry you won't wear your engine out in your lifetime."
Click to expand...

Thanks Bob C , makes sense, however do you think just running a wire mesh Airmaze would cause these restriction problems ? Other posts say No. I live on dirt roads and plan to go through farm fields on occasion.
 
I also live on dirt/gravel roads. I use an AirMaze filter and it collects a LOT of dirt that would otherwise be in the engine. I'm sure plenty gets through as it is. It makes absolutely no noticable difference in engine performance at all. When idling I can hold it on the carb or off, no change in RPM. Obviously some DO notice a change on their A, not mine. At cruising speed I run my GAV at 1/4 open, with or w/o the filter. Any more closed and I get a lean popping through the carb on deceleration.
 
FWIW

I agree that if you put an air filter on a vehicle that is not rated at the CFM per minute of air flow that the engine requires to run at performance RPM you will have an engine that runs rich and fouls plugs.

I ran my own calculations 12 years ago using the formulas at the K&N web site (no longer available), and 200.5 cubic engine running at 2100 rpm and selected a K&N E-3050.

To date I have over 30,000 miles using a K&N E-3050 and have never had any fouling of my spark plugs.

Here is a link to the same calculation on Model -A.org.

The information below the link in italics is information from Model-a.org.

http://www.model-a.org/filtering_air_into_carb.html

Carburetors, with their air input totally unfiltered, suck in all kinds of stuff that can do damage to your engine. Fine silica dust and powdered rock are the most common materials that are pulled in and cause engine wear.

The Air Maze, metal gauze unit (sold by most Model A Ford part distributors; shown on the left) prevents large particles from entering, but does nothing to filter out the small stuff that most commonly causes the damage.

The next logical step is to try paper element cartridges. However, you have to be careful not to restrict the air to fuel balance of the carburetor. The level of air resistances varies depending on the size, surface area, and the physical attributes of the filtering material.

An undersized filter restricts airflow into the carburetor and lowers the pressure at the choke. These consequences make the fuel-air ratio higher (too much gasoline for the airflow reduction) and also lower the velocity of fuel flow through the Venturi (reducing engine responsiveness to throttling). The result is carbon deposits in your engine from the rich mixture.

One needs to consider the air volume needs for a nominal 200 cubic inch engine at 2,800 RPM and the carburetors air intake area of 1.767 square inches. You also have to consider how much to oversize the filter element to allow for clogging up to say 30%. With some rough calculations, you'll find that you need a large filter.

I've read material from multiple sources, which say: "automotive engineers regularly size air filter surface areas at one-half an engines cubic inch capacity", which is 100 square inches for the nominal Model A engine.

I have found paper filters clog up quickly, restrict flow, and retain gasoline from drippy carburetors for a long time. So, I prefer K&N washable, oilable and reusable filters. Using published K&N formulas, I calculated the filter required for a typical Model A engine. If your engine has been modified to increase the cubic inches, you will want to adapt my following calculations.

First, I calculated the Effective Filtering Area for the physical attributes of K&N filter materials:

200 Cubic inches displacement times 2,800 RPM divided by 20,839, which is the factor for K&N Filter Attributes = 26.9 square inch Effective Filtering Area.

Then, I calculated the minimum length for a filter to fit in an Air Maze housing:

26.9 square inch Effective Filtering Area divided by (3 & 1/2 inch Air Maze diameter times 3.14 Pi) plus .75 inches to compensate for the rubber seals on each end of the element = 3.2 inches minimum filter length.

This is significantly longer than the very small air filters commonly seen on many Model A Fords.

K&N offers several filters that can be used with the Air Maze housing.

Part # E-3050 is 3.5 inches long.

Part # E-9257 is 5.5 inches long.

Part # E-2040 is 6.625 inches long.

To provide some margin for the filter getting dirty, before you get around to cleaning it, I would recommend the 5.5 inch long length. I know it is an over kill, but I am currently using the 6.625 inch long one to allow for driving on dusty gravel roads and to extend my time between filter cleaning / re-oiling cycles.
 
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