Air filter

If you put an air filter on a vehicle that is not rated at the CFM per minute of air flow that the engine requires to run at performance RPM you will have an engine that runs rich and fouls plugs.
I ran my own calculations 12 years ago using the formulas at the K&N see link below, and 200.5 cubic engine running at 2100 rpm and selected a K&N E-3050. To date I have over 30,000 miles using a K&N E-3050 and have never had any fouling of my spark plugs.

http://www.knfilters.com/filter_facts.aspx?pkid=1448282&rw=2#SELECT

Here is a link to the same calculation on Model -A.org. The calculation on the below web site are at an engine running 2800 rpm, and the conclusion is you can use any one of three filters, they conclude any of the three filters below are adequately sized.
◦K&N offers several filters that can be used with the Air Maze housing. ◾Part # E-3050 is 3.5 inches long.
◾Part # E-9257 is 5.5 inches long.
◾Part # E-2040 is 6.625 inches long.
But the site make this recommendation.
“◦To provide some margin for the filter getting dirty, before you get around to cleaning it, I would recommend the 5.5 inch long length. I know it is an over kill, but I am currently using the 6.625 inch long one to allow for driving on dusty gravel roads and to extend my time between filter cleaning / re-oiling cycles.”

http://www.model-a.org/filtering_air_into_carb.html
 
Tom Wesenberg said:
That was my thought also. I've never seen an oil bath on a Model A.
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Jason in TX said:
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OK, you have the high rise filter for crossing rivers, like some Army Jeeps.:D

Actually an oil bath has a metal screen that the air flows past the oil and keeps the screen wet to trap dirt. A wet/dry vacuum filter is paper and must stay dry or it will block the flow. That's why wet/dry vacs have a ball that floats on top of the water and shuts off the suction before the water reaches the filter.
 
I think what is being said is can you gut out all that crumpled up copper metal mesh junk that sits in the oil and put a paper filter in an oil bath canister.

Yes. It's been done. I first saw it years ago done on a 40s Plymouth. The tractor guys on the tractor forums also do it.

You might want to find a paper element intended for automotive purposes at Autozone or Napa rather than a wet/dry vacuum filter

Here's someone's how to:

https://www.stolaf.edu/people/becker/baidarka/air_cleaner_conversion.htm

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They have similar filters on Ferguson TO30 tractors. The important thing is that the design will work with model A carburetors as any thing else might turn into a fire ball what with the way they leak fuel at times.
 
I used vacuum cleaner hose to connect from carburetor to paper air cleaner in a similar way to that shown above and mounted the cleaner on the radiator stays. I used a 10 in diameter X 2in after market cleaner available in any accessory shop and made an adaptor for the carb and a plumbing fitting at the cleaner. The plumbing fitting was the rubber piece that goes on the pipe from cistern to bowl just under the cistern.
Did lots of miles with it. I've just converted to a downdraft carb and used the same filter on it.:D
 
160B said:
If you put an air filter on a vehicle that is not rated at the CFM per minute of air flow that the engine requires to run at performance RPM you will have an engine that runs rich and fouls plugs.
I ran my own calculations 12 years ago using the formulas at the K&N see link below, and 200.5 cubic engine running at 2100 rpm and selected a K&N E-3050. To date I have over 30,000 miles using a K&N E-3050 and have never had any fouling of my spark plugs.

http://www.knfilters.com/filter_facts.aspx?pkid=1448282&rw=2#SELECT

Here is a link to the same calculation on Model -A.org. The calculation on the below web site are at an engine running 2800 rpm, and the conclusion is you can use any one of three filters, they conclude any of the three filters below are adequately sized.
◦K&N offers several filters that can be used with the Air Maze housing. ◾Part # E-3050 is 3.5 inches long.
◾Part # E-9257 is 5.5 inches long.
◾Part # E-2040 is 6.625 inches long.
But the site make this recommendation.
“◦To provide some margin for the filter getting dirty, before you get around to cleaning it, I would recommend the 5.5 inch long length. I know it is an over kill, but I am currently using the 6.625 inch long one to allow for driving on dusty gravel roads and to extend my time between filter cleaning / re-oiling cycles.”

http://www.model-a.org/filtering_air_into_carb.html
Click to expand...

I also have used the K & N filters (tall & short one ) and my plugs are looking just fine. Car runs no different then without one.
 
It looks exactly like the oil bath filter on my old Ford 9N tractor. Check Yesterday's Tractors for parts.
 
There are several air cleaner set ups available, that have enough flow capacity, for a STOCK carbonator. Why JURY RIG one???
AND, if sumone says, "Run it without one"--DON'T ever listen to ANY more of their "ADVICE"----------
Bill W.
 
BILL WILLIAMSON said:
There are several air cleaner set ups available, that have enough flow capacity, for a STOCK carbonator. Why JURY RIG one???
AND, if sumone says, "Run it without one"--DON'T ever listen to ANY more of their "ADVICE"----------
Bill W.
Click to expand...

Bill, We have to Gerry rig something because nearly all of the air cleaners you refer to can't be used on a RHD car. In fact, the carb intake is hidden behind the steering box and the GAV rod makes it difficult to connect anything to it.:eek:
 
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