air conditioning question

1

1961

Member
My '61' Galaxie 2dr came with Ford factory/dealer installed under dash air conditioning. At least this is the information I have compiled. I like the looks of the under dash unit, chrome and very period. What I don,t like is the boat anchor compressor and over built mounting bracket. It hides the power steering pump and fuel pump and makes stated items impossible to access. Has anybody changed out this boat anchor for a smaller compressor? I can fab a bracket to fit a different compressor. Or If somebody has tried something else with success I would like to hear about it. Car has a 292 Y block. Thanks for your time.
 
Just a couple thoughts. Your system is the "old" R12, I'd guess. The "new" stuff is R134. I've got R134 Vintage Air systems on one old OT classic, and a Classic Air R134 on my 55 'bird. I've got R12 on on OT '92. The R12 is hard to come by, very expensive, and will probably become unavailable.

All the new, small, aftermarket compressors, like the Sanden commonly used, are R134 . So, you're going to have to match the 134 and it's compressor to the R12 evap, condenser, dryer, etc. Plus the drop in efficiency from R12 to R134. Then convert the seals, hoses and o rings to R134 compatible. Not impossible for any good engineer who knows the specs.

I'd start with Vintage Air, to see if they can help. The system I have from them works like modern cars, and I have several friends with the same experience.

I've got a classic air "perfect fit" system on my 55 bird. It's ok, but not as good as the Vintage Air. But they do OEM and classic restorations. I'd call them next and ask.

http://www.classicautoair.com

Probably the best choice is to convert/modify the OEM to R134, and live with the big unit. What ever you do, don't modify anything beyond restoration, or throw anything away. That OEM system is priceless to guys looking to restore an optioned car. Which you've already got.
 
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I did buy a 30lb off Craig's list a few years back for 200. I do/did have a license for it. It was just easier to leave my original stuff alone, and I don't care for the looks of the retrofit fittings. I know in some cases it's necessary and with a new kit no way of getting around it. Most of the York or Tecumseh swap to sanden compressors are just a bracket that bolts to the original mount and attach to compressor ears. They are good little compressors though. I have done the 134 conversion on a few of my now long gone work beaters with nothing more than the oil swap and adapter fittings. They worked fine unless you were stopped at a traffic light, your results may vary with temp.
 
They've pretty much outlawed the new use of R-12 in the US, and I'm told in Canada it's not allowed period. But I'll grant that where you are makes a difference. It was more difficult to find R-12 for a recharge in the Seattle area, and more expensive. Down in Arizona, not nearly so. I didn't ask why, but I have my suspicions. But I'll stand corrected in light of 5851a's comments. I do know that old R-12 system in a cheap car produced colder air than my new systems in more expensive ones.
 
Just for info I put vintage air compressor and alternator on my 312 merc it fits just under the alternator out of site, the bracket came from Vintage Air also. Alternator sit where the generator sat.
 
Bought a unit for my bronco under dash but did get the unit with the heat and air all in one . The heat works great and I did make a bracket and put a modern 134A sanden compressor on my 302 . Measured up and ordered hoses to fit with ends crimped on . Working in AC trade for 38 years I started to use a old unit I had because R 12 is still the coldest freon you can possible use .
 
From personal experience changing to R134 on many old cars, in spite of all the "information" out there, there is no change in cooling efficiency. Those old 2 cylinder York and Techumseh compressors last a long time. However they are a continuous run type. In other words, they don't take kindly to a CCOT type system. And using the old STV-TXV system uses more effort to run. (car uses more gas) I would think the way to go is a complete new "look alike" system that utilizes all new modern components, and looks like a vintage system. Patching together something that is quite likely at least 50 years old will result in a bunch of crap. It will set you back about 1K I would guess.
 
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