Ain't she pretty

GreenMonster48

Well-known member
Just picked up my Flathead from the machine shop at long last. 8BA block .125 over with 3 3/4" french crank and rods, Schneider 260 cam, stock valves with Zephyr springs and adjustable lifters from Red's.

I've got Edelbrock heads and 4 bbl which will go on over the winter. These motors look so nice when they're fresh it's almost a shame to put heads on :D
 

Attachments

  • Flathead 1.jpg
    Flathead 1.jpg
    61.3 KB · Views: 244
  • Flathead stand.jpg
    Flathead stand.jpg
    36.4 KB · Views: 240
I was lucky. No major cracks. The block was already bored .060, but got rusty from sitting. It cleaned up at .100, but we decided just to go out to .125 for the sake of it.
 
Those valves with the recess always scare me because they look like the old intake valves. A person can't use those old OEM valves on exhaust but all the new stuff is a mystery to me. Other than that it looks like it's ready to get together and rumble.
 
They're not OEM valves. I guess saying "stock valves" was a misnomer. It was a kit I bought from Red's and I haven't heard of anyone having problems with them.
 
I have the same feelings whenever I do one. They are just so darn pretty freshly machined like that.
 
Just picked up my Flathead from the machine shop at long last. 8BA block .125 over with 3 3/4" french crank and rods, Schneider 260 cam, stock valves with Zephyr springs and adjustable lifters from Red's.

I've got Edelbrock heads and 4 bbl which will go on over the winter. These motors look so nice when they're fresh it's almost a shame to put heads on :D
They look like small block Chevy exh. valves to me. Did you hear any bitching about adjusting those lifters from Red's? I butt grind all my valves but I got a set by mistake that came from Red's, It said Johnson on the box with Red's header's under that. I opened the box and they were those solid heavy tractor adjustable lifters. I thought I'd try em. No way you could turn the adjustment screw in the block, I removed the lifter and I have a jig that goes into 2 of the holes on top of the lifer, I clamped it into the vice and with a 3/8 ratchet and a 7/16 socket, It was all I could do to turn the screw down a few threads, ( I lubed it well before I started) I got a couple done and the next one it bound right up. I through them back in the box and went back to butt grinding. Walt
 
Walt, I made a thin spanner with the two pins in to adjust them when the valve is open,.
But I like the original solids better.
Lawrie
 
The heavy tractor ones work OK for a stocker but may bounce around at high rpms for a non-stocker. Sometimes you get lucky on the adjustables and they are just the right mix of tight but still adjustable. If they turn too easy, they will likely loosen off during operation.

There is a lot to be said about the hollow non adjustable OEM tappets. They take time to get the clearances set but they never slack off for sure and they are the lightest thing going.
 
Just picked up my Flathead from the machine shop at long last. 8BA block .125 over with 3 3/4" french crank and rods, Schneider 260 cam, stock valves with Zephyr springs and adjustable lifters from Red's.

I've got Edelbrock heads and 4 bbl which will go on over the winter. These motors look so nice when they're fresh it's almost a shame to put heads on :D

Looks like a Buick straight 8 in the background on the other engine stand...
 
Back
Top