Ahoog horn

Does anybody know if you can buy the horn motor armature (part number A-13816)?

The front end of the axle, which holds the serrated washer, has the threads stripped and there isn't enough material to re-thread. I will try some other ways to repair, but I am not optimistic.

A new or restored horn is kind of expensive, but a Model A without a good Ahooga horn isn't right either.
 
hmm, is it something you can make a small sleeve over and JB weld it on? Sounds like at this point what do you have to loose.
 
Identify Model A Ford Horn Motors
There were 5 kinds of Model A Horns for 1928-1931. Most of the time they can be identified by the brand stamped into the motor base, horn cover, or horn bell. My several horns had mixed up or wrong covers and horn bells as well. They can also be identified by the motor frame width and the armature shaft diameter. These are only the most common types. Several of the brands have some variations I don't show.
GMI
1" frame and 5/16" shaft.
The brush holder is unlike any other brand
Stewart Warner
11/8" frame and 1/4" shaft
Caution: the nut on the end of the armature is a left handed thread
Sparton
3/4" frame and 1/4" shaft
EA
3/4" frame and 1/4" shaft
Ames
11/8" frame and 5/16" shaft
32 Ford
Note the different hole pattern in the 32 on the left. The 32 Horn sits on a bracket on the fender unlike the Model A which hangs from the headlight bar. If a 32 horn is installed on a Model A, the drain hole for the motor will be on the top rather than the bottom.
Some more differences:
Horn bases
From left to right, EA, Sparton, Ames, Stewart Warner and GMI. The GMI is the only one with an oilite bearing on the bottom: Sounding springs
The one on the left is for Sparton and the other is for Stewart Warner: Terminal blocks The one on the left is for EA and the other is Sparton. Sparton goes into the insulator with legs and the EA with a single fold.
 
Identify Model A Ford Horn Motors
There were 5 kinds of Model A Horns for 1928-1931. Most of the time they can be identified by the brand stamped into the motor base, horn cover, or horn bell. My several horns had mixed up or wrong covers and horn bells as well. They can also be identified by the motor frame width and the armature shaft diameter. These are only the most common types. Several of the brands have some variations I don't show.
GMI
1" frame and 5/16" shaft.
The brush holder is unlike any other brand
Stewart Warner
11/8" frame and 1/4" shaft
Caution: the nut on the end of the armature is a left handed thread
Sparton
3/4" frame and 1/4" shaft
EA
3/4" frame and 1/4" shaft
Ames
11/8" frame and 5/16" shaft
32 Ford
Note the different hole pattern in the 32 on the left. The 32 Horn sits on a bracket on the fender unlike the Model A which hangs from the headlight bar. If a 32 horn is installed on a Model A, the drain hole for the motor will be on the top rather than the bottom.
Some more differences:
Horn bases
From left to right, EA, Sparton, Ames, Stewart Warner and GMI. The GMI is the only one with an oilite bearing on the bottom: Sounding springs
The one on the left is for Sparton and the other is for Stewart Warner: Terminal blocks The one on the left is for EA and the other is Sparton. Sparton goes into the insulator with legs and the EA with a single fold.

Huh? Are there supposed to be pictures with this post?
 
See the attached sheet which provides the markings on the horn by the 6 different manufactures.

Hope this helps you identify the manufacturer of your horn.

RG&JS 19-4 Revised 2011
 

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You might want to contact the repair person identified in the attached article. He may have a solution for the repair. What you are describing occurs quite often as the nut on the end is an opposite thread and is often twisted off.


Tom Endy
 

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Thank you everybody! I tried the JB Weld trick and it actually worked. It is probably just a temporary success, but the horn works for now.

Using the information provided about differences between the marks, led me straight to Stewart-Warner. Still can't find a mark or logo, but the measurements and the screws, rule out everybody else. My guess is that the casing of the horn was rusted out and replaced along the way.

I will still try to find a replacement armature (now when I know which one I need) or do a more permanent repair at some point. Tom's repair would of course be the most permanent, but that one is beyond my capability.

Thanks again! You are the best!
 
I have a few stewart warner horns and sometimes they have a VERY light stamping that needs to be seen under strong light at an angle.
 
There are no replacement armatures so you would have to find an original. The new A&L repro horns are very correct looking for a non-show car. I sold all my 12+ originals and kept the A&L repro as they are made better on the inside! None of my originals were show quality but looked very good after painting with urethane paint. No Model As now but have the A&L horn on my 36 woodie. The kids love honking it at Halloween trunk or treats. Must have been honked 300 times last year, at least once for each kid!

Likely a Stewart Warner. They have a left handed thread on the armature nut. I used to have one of each of the 5 brands of horns.

https://mrtexascitrus.weebly.com/modelahorn.html
 
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