AhhhhG! I Have The Wrong Flywheel!

Shadetree said:
Great pictures and instructions! You are absolutely right, this looks foolproof. I saved your pictures but I am still not gutsy enough to try it. This has to be very precise.

I am now leaning toward having a machine shop drill them for me and it would probably be more cost effective than rebuilding my 11" pressure plate with weaker coils. We'll see. Thanks for this excellent idea!
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Drilling and tapping new threaded holes in the correct place is 1st year machinist stuff. VERY simple to do precisely. For your circumstance, probably the quickest and most economical way to go.
Personally, I'd offset the new holes away from the old ones.
The machinist will find the true center of your flywheel and work from there. Like I said, this is about as basic as machining gets...
 
I use the transfer method of re drilling the flywheel. I made a large bushing that has the same diameter as the crankshaft flywheel mount that will allow you to bolt both flywheels together. You can then transfer the holes from one flywheel to the other. Now remember, the flywheel bolts are recessed. I've don this a dozen times to 11" wheels.
 
Re drilling a flywheel is common in the Model A world when they replace a Model A clutch with a V8 one.
 
Too bad I already sold my 11" pressure plate and clutch disc or I would be able to help you out for a fraction of the cost. Redrilling is the best way to proceed with what you have as has already been stated. Rod
 
Thanks for all of the good advice. The original thread was almost eleven months ago, but the saga continues... I had the flywheel re-faced, new holes drilled, pressure plate installed and balanced and back in the truck. Replacing the ring gear was a piece of cake, I put the flywheel in the freezer, the ring gear in the oven and it went together with very little effort. It all went very well except I had some clutch chatter and throw out bearing squeal. So last fall I pulled it back out to get rid of the new Chinese clutch, pressure plate and throw out bearing and replace it with all American made products. I am also doing some work on the transmission, replacing the grease seals and eliminating some loose motion in the shifting mechanism with parts from Mac Van Pelt. I am also replacing the rear mount.


It has been so cold this winter I haven't been able to spend much time in the shop. But things are starting to look up here weather wise.
 
When I changed from an 11" PP to a 10" PP on the Tonner I had the flywheel re-drilled, tapped and had the PP and flywheel balanced as a unit by a local machine shop. If you go this route make sure they stamp the PP and flywheel with some sort of mark to identify the proper location of PP on the flywheel to maintain the balance when you go to reassemble it on the engine. As I recall they charged $100.00 to do the job.
 
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