Affordable pcv addon?

C

ChadCurrent

Member
I have a 56 Thunderbird with a 292 I have been putting together.
Just realized this weekend the original road draft assembly is long gone and I don't have a valley cover with pcv hole. I also have the original aluminum polished lifter / valve covers.

I also don't have the original carburetor or distributor. I am just trying to make it work with what I have. Is there anything I can do that won't cost several hundreds of dollars to add pcv? It's all I have left to do before I can drop it in and see if it will run.

Anyone drill a hole in their valley and add a pcv valve? What did you use for a baffle?
Can I plumb the pcv valve into the back of my Carter wcfb carburetor?

Thanks for any suggestions.

Chad
 
Chad,

The easiest way to install the PCV would be to obtain a T-Bird valley pan with the hole for the PCV and baffle already in place, but those are hard to find. I did see one on Ebay but he wants a LOT for it (about $225 if you include shipping)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Y-Blo...506989?hash=item34304ac96d:g:hC8AAOSwNg1fVnGk

I think you could modify your existing valley pan by drilling/cutting a 1.25" diameter hole in the center of the flat area of the pan where the Tbird pan has the hole (see attached photos) and then fabricate a baffle similar to the Tbird pan and either weld or braze it in place (probably 16ga. or 18ga sheet metal). You could install the PCV valve into its grommet after drilling the 1.25" hole to determine the depth required for the baffle plate (leaving about 1/4" or so clearance below the PCV valve) You can use the photo attached to get an approximate size of the baffle.
The attached photos show my valley pan (added to my '57 312 engine).

I have a kit that I purchased for my valley pan installation, but didn't use because I ended up getting a new Holley carburetor before the installation so I didn't need the spacer plate and had an extra grommet plus PCV valve. I'm not sure what your Carter carb has for a PCV connection so you might not need the spacer plate either. The two PCV valves that came with the kit have a 3/8" and 1/2" hose connection so if either of those sizes matches your Carter, you don't need the spacer plate. You should be able to connect the PCV hose (not in my kit any longer) from the PCV valve to either the Carter port or the port on the spacer plate.

I no longer need the kit with the grommet and PCV valves, so you can have everything included in the kit for the cost of shipping (not sure what that would be but if you send me your shipping address, I could check and let you know, probably $10-$15)

My email: millerdb2@mchsi.com

Good Luck,
Dave
 

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you dont need a cover from a tbird.starting around 58 ford used these on all y blocks.trucks included.your not going to get a deal on e bay.
 
darrell said:
you dont need a cover from a tbird.starting around 58 ford used these on all y blocks.trucks included.your not going to get a deal on e bay.
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True enough on both counts. The filler tube on the later valley pan covers may be a different shape (not straight) or taller, but that can be altered if needed.
 
[FONT=&quot]Just to let ChadCurrent know, I've also converted my '61 FE 352 to PCV using the draft tube. I did it about 10 years ago, and haven't experienced any negative things, as far as I can tell. Engine runs very good. I think I adjusted the carb or something after I did it.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]My only goal was to reduce the amount of exhaust smell in the car, and my solution worked real good for that. I also wanted to do it on my '54 Y-Block, but, as I recall, the draft tube was of significantly larger size, and I wasn't sure if I could/should transition it down to a valve size tube/hose, so I just left it as it was. As I recall, I did remove some of the existing draft tube on my 352FE to make the conversion, but I can't remember how much or why. Unfortunately, posting pics on Fordbarn is hard for me to do with my setup. [/FONT]
 
JimNNN said:
[FONT=&quot]. . . [/FONT][FONT=&quot] Unfortunately, posting pics on Fordbarn is hard for me to do with my setup. [/FONT]
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You first have to use the 'Advanced' (not the 'Quick') reply function so you can get to the paperclip/attach icon to open the 'Manage Attachments/Browse/Select a file' pop-up box... and the 'file size' of the image can't be larger than 1.99mb or the Fordbarn server will reject it.
 
Chad,

I know you're trying to keep the cost to a minimum, but if you do want an original Holley carb for a '56, I have a few restored that I did this summer.

Sal
 
scicala I'm not really going for period correct or all original. I'm trying to bring it back to what my dad had when he was in his 20s. I would have put a 312 in it but I can't afford it at this point in time so the 292 he had will have to do. He had it for over 54 years and 45 of those years it sat buried in the garage. I want to get it drive-able first and work on all the details later. I don't want to put it off for 40 years myslelf waiting for perfection.



Hopefully by the end of the year it will at least run down the street and stop on it's own :)


I would really like to add power steering and disc breaks but that's several thousands I don't have to spend on it right now. I spent way too much just getting the body work done to it's current condition. Luckily my uncle was happy to do it and his friend did a lot too. I bought all the materials and my mom helped pay for his friends labor.
 
JImNnn I wasn't having any luck either adding pictures " Error uploading " so I uploaded them to my Google Drive and shared the link.
 
Chad, looks like the bird's come a long ways. I had one when I was 17 (they were really cheap then) and now I'm 70. I've got an old valley pan with a kind of cobbled up PVC, but your welcome to it. Or just the idea. The oil fill tube is cut off (I got this for a mock-up on another project), but here's a picture.

You might add your location to your signature line. You never know when someone close can help out

Oops, got one picture twice missed this one
 

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There isn't lot of room under a Tbird hood, so be careful when adding anything underneath the carb. The WCFB is a tall carb and with an air cleaner it should just about clear the hood (same with a teapot).



With the stock carb and stock air filter, and a 1/4 heat diffuser it is too tall to use a wing nut.
 
Miker98038. I'd be interested as I have another non pcv one that's in pretty rough shape but has the tube. The better one I had we had to hammer into shape a bit before I installed it so it would seat flat. If anything we might be able to swap tubes or have a pattern for the splash guard. My uncle has a 56 in about as rough shape as mine so mine is the practice car. We are learning a lot as he hasn't messed with a y block since he was a teenager back in 67'-68 when dad was drafted in Vietnam basic training. It's definitely a learning experience for me.

Paul2748. I know about the clearance issue as he has a small dent from too long of a threaded rod in the carburetor lol. We fixed the dent and I'll be trimming the threaded rod.

Thanks for the info link KULTULZ.
 
I pulled the PCV cobble out of the valley pan, and looking close I think it's handmade. At least I've never seen one like this. Both the PCV valve and the brass fitting will unscrew (one thing about being oily and brass, they don't rust). But it looks to me like it would work. I'd probably use a barb fitting and an in-line valve, but I'll leave that to others. Thoughts?
 

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What you have is the original separator that has the nipple removed and hardware attached to accept a ninety degree fitting and PCV valve.
 

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