Advice on Cylinder Wall Rust Needed

J

jack orchard

Senior Member
I have 2 8BA blocks that were stored for about 3 years after being bored without being assembled. (I am the guilty one) I used steel wool and oil to remove as much rust as possible, but there are still some rust stains that resemble shadows. No pits that are big enough to feel with a pick or fingernail.
Anyone have advice? Also how is the best way to remove the little steel wool particles?
As always, your opinions are valued and very much appreciated.
Thanks,...jack
 
Use a cylinder hone lightly. If it is too bad you may have to size it to a larger piston. It needs a good hone pattern before you assembly it anyway.
 
Use a brush type hone for this job. It is the final step for all cylinder finishes. First clean the block with your favorite solvent. Next use a powerful mixture of Tide detergent with brushes and rags. Finally, check your work with lacquer thinner on a white paper towel. There must be NO DISCOLORING of the white towel.
 
If you flex hone with hand cleaner as a lube with NO PUMICE just plain old hand cleaner.
you will have a very easy cleanup as JWL states.I have done and seen it done 100's of times.I know it sounds wild but try it.Then have at it with JWL'S proven over and over a true test for a clean bore.The actual hone process is only about 30 seconds in each hole.
You can hone with plain oil if you desire.
Stay away from a crude spring loaded 3 legged hone if you can,not really what you want on a new cylinder wall.


R
 
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clean the rust out and don't worry about any dark spots left in the cylinders. I work on lots of boat motors and see this all the time. The boats have water cooled exhausts and after sitting all winter, the dampness cause some rust to form in any cylinders that have the exhaust valves open. I know it looks bad, but all the years, I have never seen one motor come to grief on account of it. The bearings wear out first before the rings and bores.
 
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