Advice on building a 351 C engine

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Make sure this T-stat ring is in place. The correct thermostat is required too, it has extra piece on the bottom that fits up against this ring.
 
Have the block sonic tested before you spend any money. That is a very thin wall block and any core shift in casting might mean it can't be bored out.
 
I read an article once that several stock bore 351c blocks had to be passed over for a performance build because of thin cylinder walls. They claimed (IIRC) they wanted a minimum of .150 thousands on the thrust side and some had less than .100.
 
Agree with above on wall thickness, but unless you are determined to use off the shelf pistons you can get them in any bore size you want, should go .030 with no problems though. A couple of tips for you also, if you plan to rev more than 6000 rpm. The 351 C, M and the 385 series engines oiled the top of the block before oiling the mains which is *** backwards for performance builds, so they have an oiling issue that needs to be addressed if you are shooting for max power. If you look at an oiling diagram you will see they oil the front main and then it goes to the right bank lifter galley then to each main before going to the left bank lifters. This caused the mains and rods to starve for oil. Moroso made a restrictor kit to help get/keep the oil at the mains. They are basically pipe plugs with small holes in them to reduce the oil to the cam bearings thus keeping more for the mains. If you are going with a hydraulic cam do not restrict the large oil feed hole in #5 main saddle as that is the one that feeds the lifter galley for the right bank. Use high performance lifters as they have a smaller feed hole in them. At one time there was someone making cam bearings with a reduced oiling hole that would eliminate the need to use a moroso kit. Some other things that help keep the oil where it needs to be, pushrods with a .040 oil passage, high volume oil pump used with a high pressure spring (100 lbs), deep sump oil pan, full grooved mains, use a Boss 302 windage tray with the Boss main cap bolts. You will be replacing the oil pump, cam bearings and push rods on a rebuild anyway so cost would be negligible for performance pieces.
The only other thing I would recommend if you are using a production head would be to find a set of 2 barrel heads. The ports are smaller so you wont have to rev 8000rpm to make some power. Gasket match the heads and intake, clean casting flash from ports. Use ARP main and head studs.

I used to drag race a 67 Mustang with a Boss 302 in F Gas back in the late 60's, 4 speed, 6.20-1 rear gear. I left the line at 8000 and shifted at 9000. It was a fun ride, but expensive to build and maintain.
Probably a million things I've forgotten over the years.

Hope this gives you some food for thought.

Dave
 
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