Advice on axel shims
- Thread starter Talon one
- Start date
nkaminar
Well-known member
Like everything in life, it depends. I have replace the axles to solve this problem in a Model T. They were made longer to account for worn hubs. Look for evidence of wear on the axle and hub and decide which way to go. Remember to keep the axle nuts very tight and check them at least once a year. I use 200 ft-lbs but others have suggested that this is too much.
BRENT in 10-uh-C
Well-known member
Possibly, ...however there may be many other issues. Shims are a bandaid that really needs to be 'not used', and instead repair the root problem.
To begin with, the Axle Housing Hub Race needs to be checked with a micrometer first with a measurement in a horizontal plane (3:00 & 9:00 position) -and then take the same reading in the vertical plane (6:00 & 12:00 position). Compare the two measurements. If there is more than 0.005" of wear, the axle housing needs to be restored by machining it for and installing a new race.
Also, the axle shaft needs to be checked where the inner seal rides to ensure the axle shaft does not have a groove worn into the shaft. If so, this can set-up an area for a stress rider to form which can cause the axle to break. This generally causes the wheel, hub & drum, and outer portion of the axle to exit the rear end housing. At that point, it likely takes out the Brake Housing Plates and the rear fender.
And finally, the taper on the axle needs to be checked and compared to the taper in the new hub. A worn taper on an axle will not allow the new hub to tighten properly. Generally it will ruin a new hub in short order due to the hub not supported by the axle. I trust by now you see the importance of verifying all the parts are not exceeding maximum wear specifications.