Advice, comments, suggestions?

Tudie 36

Tudie 36

Senior Member
Looking for suggestions. My newly acquired 1936 Tudor is slowly getting to the point that I’m not too worried about wearing comfortable walking shoes or the tow truck on speed dial. Starts pretty easy. I’ve changed oil and drained and refilled radiator, cleaned plugs, rebuilt carb(97), rebuilt generator and cut out. Dual 6volt optimas. Idles great but wants to stumble a little when under load. Someone installed a satellite coil. Today I changed condenser. I can tell a little difference but still stumbles at point of changing gear. Wife says I’m pushing too hard. I don’t think so. Today while changing condenser the new connection was a little tight and wanted to turn with the acorn nut as I was trying to hold the two connections still while I tightened I noticed the post was moving also. No time today but tomorrow going to add a tiny flat washer and try to tighten the post without removing the top of the distributor cover. Am I going the right direction? Thanks for any comments
 
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Tudie, (That's your moniker till you post your name!) Sounds like you have a stud into the aluminum distributor housing with the condenser under the stud nut? The stud may have stripped out the aluminum? I think you'd be wise to remove the assembly and figure out why it turns.

The adapter plate you have is not original, and is an aftermarket product used only to accommodate the remote coil you have. Most old timers will turn up their nose at the sight of such a device, myself included. Should your ignition be the culprit causing your stutter, get hold of Skip Haney in Florida. Skip can do a bang up job on all ignition issues you can throw at him.
Remember also, it may be a fuel issue. Your pump may be fighting to keep up with demand at higher RPMs, And/or, your float level may be set too low.
 
I don’t like the un natural look of the distributor either but that’s what it was as purchased. I’ll check ugly loose stud first then on to the carb if that doesn’t do it. Thanks, Greg Kirkland Rockford, Tennessee
 
I'm also not a big fan of using those adaptor plates on top of helmet distributors, and a remote mounted coil. You might want to consider getting an original type coil that mounts on top of distributor and send it to Skip Haney to have it rewound. You'll also need to find a good original, or a modern condenser that mounts on back of coil.
 
Was the carb rebuild done with a Daytona kit? Some of the lesser versions have under performing valves. Ask me how I know.
 
JM 35 Sedan said:
I'm also not a big fan of using those adaptor plates on top of helmet distributors, and a remote mounted coil. You might want to consider getting an original type coil that mounts on top of distributor and send it to Skip Haney to have it rewound. You'll also need to find a good original, or a modern condenser that mounts on back of coil.
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Thanks, I’ve put this on my list.
 
I never believed in cleaning spark plugs if your going to remove them you might just as well put new in, there not that costly i’ve always had good luck with champions H -10. but each to his own
 
joe 1950never believed in cleaning spark plugs if your going to remove them you might just as well put new in said:
Agreed, if I had some laying around when I decided to inspect a couple I would have. Why would the last person change to a remote coil I wonder? As soon as new garage is finished and not working in an open carport, my plan is to take the couple of non original parts and change to as original as possible including some paint on heads etc. and a change of intake, this one has had a poor repair and wonder if a little air loss may also be an issue.
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Tudie 36 said:
The kit came from Speedway. Master rebuild kit. Thanks
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If your stumble is fuel related.....I think you found your problem ....Speedway sells “vintage parts “ but they don’t specialize in Early Fords.....visit this site often and you’ll learn the best vendors and the best people to help you with your car......Mark
 
flatford8 said:
If your stumble is fuel related.....I think you found your problem ....Speedway sells “vintage parts “ but they don’t specialize in Early Fords.....visit this site often and you’ll learn the best vendors and the best people to help you with your car......Mark
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. Good to know, At least all my minor issues have been easy to get to. Thanks, Bigg
 
There are a number of fractions on the barn. Keep it stock at all costs, or I just like to drive my car, not a museum piece. and anything goes, as long as it doesn't cost much. Me!
In this case Skip is the best bet.
Gramps
PS WE all get along somewhat, because we love old Fords.
 
Ol' Ron said:
There are a number of fractions on the barn. Keep it stock at all costs, or I just like to drive my car, not a museum piece. and anything goes, as long as it doesn't cost much. Me!
In this case Skip is the best bet.
Gramps
PS WE all get along somewhat, because we love old Fords.
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. Thanks, know how it is on Forums, Fishing forums can get plum ridiculous…Bigg
 
On the point of spark plugs . I use to clean , then just replace as I needed . I recently purchased a $25 tool - gadget, a 110 volt spark plug tester . It saved the day recently, had 8 new champion 10s installed and had a miss that wasn’t there before. This litspark plug tester proved the plug was bad and couldn’t get it to spark . Its a simple little 4” box that holds 2 plug upside down and you turn the dial to represent rpm . Of course this in normal atmosphere, not compression, but if it doesnt fire in atmosphere well it aint gonna fire in compression. Excellent little tool . So I checked the plugs I removed and all were good , so I saved 7 and installed the 8th inthe the car . Runs great .
 
flatford8 said:
If your stumble is fuel related.....I think you found your problem ....Speedway sells “vintage parts “ but they don’t specialize in Early Fords.....visit this site often and you’ll learn the best vendors and the best people to help you with your car......Mark
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Thanks Mark
 
Tudie, Your story has a lot of similarities to mine, turning a newly acquired flathead into a real driver. May not be like your case but mine had a wicked accelerator stumble when I bought it, nearly un-driveable. Rebuilt the carb and it helped some. Then I focused on the accelerator linkage. Watching it carefully, I observed that the accelerator "z-bar" had to move about a half inch, winding up the slack in the accelerator rod connecting it to the carburetor before the throttle on the carb would move. Probably worn out 80-year old springs in the accelerator rod. I made a new one with these links from Speedway and a rod from Home Depot.


Made a HUGE difference. 90% of the hesitation disappeared. I still see some windup in the accelerator pump linkage from the carb throttle to accelerator pump before it starts to move. I've replaced the accelerator pump link with a new one but it didn't help much. I'm convinced though that if I can find a solution to a crappy accelerator pump linkage the remaining 10% of the problem will go away.

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SoCalCoupe said:
Tudie, Your story has a lot of similarities to mine, turning a newly acquired flathead into a real driver. May not be like your case but mine had a wicked accelerator stumble when I bought it, nearly un-driveable. Rebuilt the carb and it helped some. Then I focused on the accelerator linkage. Watching it carefully, I observed that the accelerator "z-bar" had to move about a half inch, winding up the slack in the accelerator rod connecting it to the carburetor before the throttle on the carb would move. Probably worn out 80-year old springs in the accelerator rod. I made a new one with these links from Speedway and a rod from Home Depot.


Made a HUGE difference. 90% of the hesitation disappeared. I still see some windup in the accelerator pump linkage from the carb throttle to accelerator pump before it starts to move. I've replaced the accelerator pump link with a new one but it didn't help much. I'm convinced though that if I can find a solution to a crappy accelerator pump linkage the remaining 10% of the problem will go away.

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Hum? Noted. Thanks
 
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