Advance and throttle notches

G

Galaxiedan

Junior Member
I seem to be missing the notches or detents on the throttle lever and timing advance lever? Where are they located? 1930 Model A Briggs Fordor
Thanks
 
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My lever stays in place with the notches all worn smooth, so I don't worry about it.


If I restore the car I'll recreate the notches by using a chisel.
 
In the interim, some suggest installing a metal finger nail file (cut to fit) by pulling up on the levers against the lower springs. Grooves can be cut in the nail file face with a triangle shaped slim file if desired. Use some thread locker or adhesive.
 
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You can use a triangular file to dress-up the groves, then repaint the plates. Would suggest installing new springs at the bottom so there is more pressure of the lever on the plate to keep things from moving.
 
I do the same as jrelliott does, use a triangular file to "freshen up" the grooves. Just don't file the grooved too deep or it will weaken the plate.



I believe originally the spark and gas levers had a small "uptick or ***" on the bottom of them where the corresponding grooves in the plate are. These were worn off many, many years ago. I believe that is why there were grooves in the plate, to hold the rods in place. The springs actually do most of the work to hold them in place.

Rusty Nelson
 
Modifying the levers by brazing half cotter pin and then dressing the added metal to a wedge then replating was what I did. And filing the grooves deeper on the column. That was one solution some researching would mention.
 
jrelliott said:
You can use a triangular file to dress-up the groves, then repaint the plates. Would suggest installing new springs at the bottom so there is more pressure of the lever on the plate to keep things from moving.
Click to expand...

Thats what I did/used, seems to work real good, my only regret is that I did not make them deeper at the time.
 
My levers are not touching the plates. If I loosen the clamp on the steering column by the steering box, can I pull the tube up enough (1/8 inch) to make the levers touch the plates?


Thanks
 
In reference to posts #3 #4 #8, these guys know what they're talking about. Judicious use of a chisel to refresh the notches just moves metal as opposed to a file which removes precious metal. These processes seem involved, and they are; However if done in this manner a person will understand how the levers felt/operated on a NEW Model A.
 
I drilled the handle and glued a b b in and all was well But again you have to address the grooves
 
If you pull up the column, it will do no good as the levers are fixed in the column. Better way is to figure out why the levers are not hitting the quadrant. Possibly the quadrant is bent down, or the levers are the cheap repo ones that are not bent right.
 
The problem I see is that the flat spots between the grooves made by years of wear would be tough to "sharpen up" with a chisel. Maybe I don't understand how a chisel is used. It seems to me a chisel can only clean out the grooves. If someone can enlighten me as to how a chisel is used to remove the flat spots that are ground down over the year, I would appreciate it. I will be restoring a 28/29 steering column soon, so how best to restore the grooves would be helpful.
Rusty Nelson
 
Look at the contact area on the underside of the levers. It'll be worn more than the groved plate. That must be addressed. Best bet is to replace the levers with new and they come plated, some available with nickel !
 
See entry#8. If your column is worn then it will need to be fixed. A file has served me well but only on the two tooth column. But reworking the levers as I described is what I have done to OEM levers. I have no experience with repo levers.
 
you can countersink the two holes where the spark advance rod and the accelerator rod goes through which will allow the rod to fit lower in the upper "bearing". Since the rod is bent at 90 degrees, the rod will fit lower and have more "force" on the "notches". I think late 31's were countersunk to allow for this.
 
Would it be possible to bend the levers down while they are in place? After disconnecting the linkage below they might move beyond the quadrant. The quadrants look perpendicular to the tube and do not bend easily as I thought they might. Levers look to be old but then what does that mean with a '31 car.
 
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