adjusting mechanical brakes

K

khnaess

Member
Hello
This winter I am doing a check on the brakes on my 1937 ford. I have several repair manuals so I guess I will find out how. But one question before I start; I have noticed that there has always been a little slack on the 4 brake cables. When the brakes are released, I can move the cables sideways a couple of cm.
Is this common? The repair manual says a tension on 25lb pull on the cables before connecting the clevis...

rgds
Knut Håkon Næss
 
Knut, Cables stretch, and clevises wear out, causing slack in the cables. They should all be snugged up with minimum slack while all shoes are slackened off, then to proceed and adjust the shoes. There was actually a KRW tool intended to indicate a 25 lb tension, but I doubt if any mechanic ever used it. This is a very important step however, to ensure that all cables are ready to pull simultaneously.

When doing the shoe adjustments, I found the best method to be raise the car on jack stands to allow all four wheels off the ground at the same time. As the hand brake operates on the same system, it can be used to help synchronize all shoes at once. You will find that the final adjustment will require the rear shoes to be backed off slightly from the front, to prevent sliding the rear tires.
 
Another question before i begin. I like to pull the front brake drums and inspect the brake shoes. (I have already read about the need for a suitable puller when it comes to the rear drums). Do I need to remove the cotton pin and nut in the center hub before pulling the front drum? So far I have just backed of the braking shoes, but the drum dont come easy off so far....
 
Yes, the hub and drum should be a unit and come off as one piece. It is very similar to pulling a more modern hub.
 
Knut, I don't know what brake material products are available in Norway, but here in the States, the original shoe material containing asbestos is no longer available from automotive suppliers by law. The legal replacement material is very poor, containing brass inclusions intended to make the shoes last longer, net result is less braking efficiency. We are only able to bypass the regulatory demons by purchasing our brake shoe material from industrial friction material suppliers rather than from automotive suppliers. You will note, from your investigations, that woven shoe material was at one time used on some early cars, but please note that this material, while still available from some suppliers, tends to wear out very rapidly, is most costly, and while it will stop your car quickly, it is difficult to control, grabbing, and skidding tires on otherwise normal stops.

One more thing before you pull your front drums: Note the free wheeling action of the wheel before you start, and remember to repack the wheel bearings with grease, and to reinstall the hub nut & cotter pin to reproduce the free action, rather than to cinch up the nut as required on the rear drums.
 
Ok. But to be sure; I have to remove the big nut with the cotton pin in order to get the drum of? I must also take out the outer bearing?
 
I have mechanical brakes on a 38 Ford using Gatke lining. I adjust by jacking up a wheel, pull the emergency brake on two notches, tighten the adjuster at the top of the backing plate until I can just turn the wheel, take off the emergency brake and see if the wheel turns okay (you will get some resistance in part of the turn) and adjust the remaining wheels in the same fashion. When done, take the car for a test drive. I have used this procedure since 1950.
 
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