Adjusting Brake Rods

[Ed in Maine]

I have put the brake rods on my 31 Cabriolet. I started out with rod lengths of 57 1/2 in. per the Ford service bulletins. Then I saw the Paul Shinn instructions on Utube. I made the brake pedal holding tool setting the first adjustment at 2 in. Then I started to think about what I was doing. The Ford bulletins state that the rod dimensions should not be changed from the dealer settings. This is exactly what the Shinn method is recommending.

I did run into a problem with the last wheel to be adjusted ( Pass side, front). To get the wheel drag that I wanted per the Shinn method, the clevis had to be installed until the rod was fully inserted with no further adjustment. This can't be correct!

What is everyone's opinion of the Shinn method with changing the lengths of the rods? Thank you for your comments. Ed

 

[P.S.]

If your Model A was just rolling out of the factory and nothing has yet been modified, worn, used, no aftermarket or repro parts, and fresh, then the rods would all be correct. 95 years later, that is no longer the case, and if you want all 4 wheels to have the exact same braking force, then the Paul Shinn method is mandatory.

 

[Bob Bidonde]

Referring to the Ford Service Bulletin of June 1928, Page 259, the service brake rod length for the front & rear rods is 51-7/16" to 51-1/2". I set all 4 of the service brake rods to 51-1/2" and then lengthen the front rods to get a 15 degrees front brake bias. After initially setting the rods, I do not change their lengths again.

My A's have brake floaters, and the service brakes are kept in good operating condition. I use woven brake linings. Occasionally I adjust the brake shoes when the brake pedal gets soft. Otherwise, the brake pedals are firm and all 4 wheels lockup evenly in a skid.

 

[Y-Blockhead]

I did run into a problem with the last wheel to be adjusted ( Pass side, front). To get the wheel drag that I wanted per the Shinn method, the clevis had to be installed until the rod was fully inserted with no further adjustment. This can't be correct!

One thing I notice when these discussions come up is no one mentions the first thing I do is check the adjustment of the brake pedal to cross cross shaft adjustment to ensure the cross shaft levers are straight up & down. If out of adjustment, there may be an issue of running out of adjustment, as the OP has.

An other cause could be the front end is tweaked (as opposed to twerked )

 

[Will N]

Ed, are you working with all parts of the brake system that have been restored to original specs that have no wear? If not, using the Ford recommended lengths does not account for any slop in the system due to wear. When working with worn parts, what I usually do is take off the brake drums so I can see when the brake shoes first begin to move. Then I will pull on each rod just until I can see the shoes are about to begin to move, taking all the slop out of the system at that wheel. I'll adjust the clevis so that the rods have been pulled tight enough to the point just before the shoes begin to move. Do that on each of the wheels. Then replace the drums and wheels, and adjust the brake shoes to get just the slightest drag at each wheel.

 

[nkaminar]

If the rods are set to the right length and the brakes will not come into adjustment, then there is something wrong that needs to be fixed. The length of the rods should not be used to adjust the brakes.

 

[Ed in Maine]

Bob Bidonde, do you have a source or part number for the brake pedal return spring? If not, what was the diameter and length of the spring? It is a great idea, thank you, Ed

 

[Rob Doe]

Ed, post #3 gives the dimensions of the spring??? 8.5" length x 5/8" diameter???

 

[JayJay]

Ed, post #3 gives the dimensions of the spring??? 8.5" length x 5/8" diameter???

There is also an aftermarket gizmo available from the vendors (https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/product.htm?pid=977589&cat=41655) that attaches a spring to the motor mounts. I have Float-A-Motor Mounts so had to fabricate my own landing point for the spring, but it works great.

 

[WHN]

Brakes! Do you really think everything in this system has to be correct?

As with the front end. I recommend taking the brake system completely apart. Everything!

I replace all the rods, pins, springs, floaters, shoes, everything. Just a little wear in a couple of places, could keep you from having a normally maintainable brake system.

If there were a place on a Model A that is effected the most by many different owners and shade tree mechanics. The brake systems is the one.

Brakes, front end, tires, “must be safe”. Everything else is just fluff.

Enjoy.

 

[Canton_Model_A's]

Bob, where did you source the spring from, My 1929 A has this same issue I would like my brake to return back to turn off the brake lights.