Adjusting A '53 F-1 Box

TomT/Williamsburg

TomT/Williamsburg

Well-known member
I have a little play in my F-1 box in my 32 so I thought I'd try to adjust it some.

So - I know it's the side bolt - I was told that there's a cover and then a bolt underneath to adjust it - does the cover pop off or does it turn off?

Once off, do I turn right to tighten, left to loosen as normal?

Thanks ....
 
Tom, loosen the cover nut ( I believe it's a 5/8" wrench) and remove it completely along with the star washer. Under it, you should see a notched screw that can be turned with a large flat blade screwdriver. Raise the front of the vehicle so the wheels are off the ground. Center the wheels. Tighten the screw until you feel resistance at the center point when turning the steering wheel. Then, loosen the screw just until the resistance goes away. Reseat the star washer and replace the cover nut and tighten it down. Done!

Keep in mind that there will always be play as the wheels are turned away from center. That can't be adjusted out.
 
There is a no slop spot when the gearbox is centered. You can find this spot when you slowly tighten the adjuster screw. You want some drag at the center but not loose and not bound up. Center the steering on this spot and adjust your drag link to center the wheels if they are now off. As an aside, You might need to pull some gasket shims out of the worm bearing stack if there is any looseness in the worm. Do that before adjusting the mesh.
 
Hopefully the box was rebuilt when it was installed in your 32. If the adjustment doesn't work - you can't find a tight spot with the wheels centered - you may be in for a rebuild on the box. It's not too bad, I did it on my 48 F1.

I'll wish you luck in adjusting it as the good advice above indicated.

The paper shims Andy mentioned are in the bottom of the box - under the other plate. Pull up on the steering wheel to see if there's too much end play.
 
Thanks fellas - excellent description Thunderbirdesq. No, I did not rebuild the box when I installed it. It did come out of a low mileage truck but it had been sitting for a number of years. I figured that would be a winter project if needed once the "bugs" were worked out on the car. I've got the paper shims that you mentioned Andy and we'll see what play I have - if memory serves me, there was virtually nothing, one of the reasons I left it alone to begin with.

I'll keep you posted on my progress ....
 
In my experience, rarely do you need to mess with the paper shims on these if they're already in decent condition. It's worth checking, I usually rebuild them as a matter of principle though. As long as the hard parts are in good shape, it only costs a few dollars for the gaskets/bearings/seal and about an hour of time, if that. I have come across a few that the sector has literally ground away at the inside of the box rendering it unadjustable/unrebuildable. However, both of these boxes were noticeably sloppy/worn to begin with. Best of luck, I'm sure you'll lick it easily.
 
Are we really talking about a F-1 steering box, though, or a F-100 box? They're different animals aren't they? Good info, nevertheless.
 
You want to make sure that the wheels are straight ahead when the steering box is centered. (Center the box with front wheels off the ground, turn wheel full lock to left. Then, count turns to full lock right. Then, back left exactly half the turns it took to do the full left to right thing. If you have an adjustable length drag link, you want to set it to get wheels straight forward as this is the point where there's no play. The box loosens up when it's turned to either side.)
 
southfork said:
Are we really talking about a F-1 steering box, though, or a F-100 box? They're different animals aren't they? Good info, nevertheless.
Click to expand...

No same basic design. Also the same deal for 37-48 pass boxes. Replace the paper shims with a screw adjuster on the worm and it applies to most steering boxes. Vega, 57 Chevy, 67 Mustang, 90 Olds, etc
 
This thread was actually quite timely - although I had never had a problem before, I took the 32 to church (literally around the corner) and had a "death wobble" on the way home. Everything is new in the FE save for the box (which has no up and down play BTW) adn the tires are balanced w/Dynabeads - I'm assuming at this point the box needed adjusting.

I didn't have enough time over the weekend to complete it but I do have it up, got it to where I think I'm adjusted right but I'll make my final adjustments tonight (I hope) - it definitely had some play but is adjusting up nicely. I'll also adjust the clutch pdal as it's all the way at the top, I've retorqued the heads one final time, and I installed the pre-req acorn nuts on the head bolts. Intake bolts are next.

We're going to be in the Homecoming parade here in town for W&M so clutch pedal throw will be a factor - we're the last "float" and we'll be set/dressed up in early 50's style garb (for a college student) with all the crowd pleasing stuff. Should be a fun parade - I'll try and get a pic for y'all.

I guess they put me last so no one behind me would have to hear how loud my exhaust is - just as well as I think I'll rev it up a few times just for fun!!
 
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