Adjusting '39 Lincoln Brakes ?

Terry O

Terry O

Junior Member
I need info on setting up the Wilson Welding '39 Lincoln front brakes for the first time. I think it has something to do with removing the top nut on the backing plate and adjusting shoes with a feeler gauge?

I've been told here used to be some info here about
adjusting early Bendix Lincoln brakes at
http://www.fordbarn.com/earlyv8/foru...3/5261444.html

but that info is no longer available. If you can help I'd appreciate it.

Terry
 
You will have to examine that upper anchor attachment. Original Lincoln and other Bendix brakes up into the fifties had adjustable upper anchor...this was moved vertically to get a specified clearance on shoes near top on MAJOR adjustments, meaning when new shoes were installed. This was done before finalizing the minor adjustment at lower clicker. Exact procedure varied a little between Lincoln, F1, '49 cars, etc. Anchor nut was loosened till anchor was just movable during the procedure.

I suspect the Wilson ones are like later Bendix with no adjustment available at upper anchor, but do not know for sure.
Full procedures in '38-48 service bulletins. If you don't have those you are working in the dark on a lot of things!
 
For any of you who may need this information I found this while searching, posted by a well respected fella Dick Spadaro... Dick is talking about MT brakes used on a '40 but applies to the later adjustable anchor Wilson's or any of the MT's. -

"Adjusting brakes suggestion, Since the 40 drums do not have the slotted inspection windows like the Lincoln brake the adjustment is a little more difficult. Lincoln brakes are adjusted with a feeler gauge for initial setting so this is a variation to that, using a wood stick on the brake pedal braced to the seat, apply a slight pressure to the brakes to energize them so the wheel cylinders expand and the shoes just touch the drums for slight drag.This may initially require two pedal pumps to balance the fluid in the wheel cylinders. Loosen the anchor nut and expand the lower adjuster so it is solid but not tight, this squares the shoes to the drum, tap the backing plate to center the shoes. Recheck the lower adjuster to insure that it is still snug and the drum drags the shoe and turns with a stiff light drag. Tighten the anchor bolt at the top and release the pedal pressure, back click the lower adjuster to remove any drag on the brake shoe and re apply the brakes, the pedal should be hard at the top of the throw, and release with no drum drag or just a very slight drag on the shoes. Take the car for a test run and seat the shoes with a couple of hard stops and then re adjust if necessary. It is not a bad idea to readjust the brakes after about 300 miles operation."

Thanks Dick
 
I did it a little differently. If you use the cylinder pressure to move the shoes, they are off the stop. I put a piece of paper at the top and bottom of the shoes and seated them with the adjuster and tightened the stop nut. Back off the adjuster to get the drum off and remove the paper. Install drum and adjust shoe clearance. Worked for me.
I think Wilson's reinforcement plate welds are a little light. I added some weld.
 
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