adjustable ?

old ugly

old ugly

Well-known member
opinions on either the single or double lock lifters.

i have always used the double locks with no issues but maybe i'll try the singles on this current engine??
 
I've used single lock for 17 years and only had to make very minor lash adjustments twice over that time.
 
Single locks also have a larger diameter base which is closer to original size. Double lock are smaller. :)
 
I remember well the discussion I had with Richard Knight as he explained the pros/cons of the two different kinds of lifters. He would do either but his preference was single.

His rationale was plausible, so this is what I went with. After all, he at that time had done more engines than I ever dreamed about.

Of course you could do it the "old fashioned way" with SOLID lifters. The problem being where can you even find unground solid lifters, where do you find the tooling for doing it (which is kind of ingenious in how it works) and more particularly - where do you find a person who is even capable of using the tooling?

One imagines that like most everything else in the KRW catalog, solid lifter tooling pricing is WAY beyond the money one could make in using it. Especially on a "one-shot" job.

Joe K
 
I don't know what functions the KRW tooling does, but regular valve grinding machines can be set at 90 deg to shorten the stem.
 
Bruce of MN said:
I don't know what functions the KRW tooling does, but regular valve grinding machines can be set at 90 deg to shorten the stem.
Click to expand...

The tooling is unique in that you assemble the "jig" (which measures from the valve seat DOWN to the tappet - and then use that in a special grinder which allows you to grind ONLY THAT MUCH - and to include the 14 thou (or whatever is built into the system) "clearance." There is no measuring (or even adjusting for that matter) the clearance of the valve train.

You set it - and do it. That's it.

You have, of course ONE SHOT to grind it correctly. If not right you get another valve and start again (or hope that the one you ground short can be used in the other seven valve stations.)

It's a system which is designed around the stock Model A engine sans inserts, valve swap-outs, or any other modern variants which have sprung up since the age of KRW. If anything is changed, possibly even decking (I'll have to think about that) then you can't do KRW.

Joe K


Edit: Think. Decking or grinding/replacing valve seats has to be done BEFORE grinding/adjusting the valves in the KRW system.
 
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I have the tooling to set the valve grinder to cut the right amount off the mushroom stem. Never used it. As Joe said the single nut lifters have been the gold standard g for a long time. IMHO.
 
Joe K said:
The tooling is unique in that you assemble the "jig" (which measures from the valve seat DOWN to the tappet - and then use that in a special grinder which allows you to grind ONLY THAT MUCH - and to include the 14 thou (or whatever is built into the system) "clearance." There is no measuring (or even adjusting for that matter) the clearance of the valve train.

You set it - and do it. That's it.

You have, of course ONE SHOT to grind it correctly. If not right you get another valve and start again (or hope that the one you ground short can be used in the other seven valve stations.)

It's a system which is designed around the stock Model A engine sans inserts, valve swap-outs, or any other modern variants which have sprung up since the age of KRW. If anything is changed, possibly even decking (I'll have to think about that) then you can't do KRW.

Joe K


Edit: Think. Decking or grinding/replacing valve seats has to be done BEFORE grinding/adjusting the valves in the KRW system.
Click to expand...

Thanks, good explanation.
 
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