Adjustable Valve Lifter Installation

[Diastole]

Jim,
How do I know it is valve clicking?

I asked my question MY initial post to this thread: "What does valve clearance noise sound like"?

I replied to an existing post rather than starting a new one. I started a new one a few months ago and received lots of PMs about "the responsibility of FordBarn posters reading old threads", "cluttering threads with covered topics", "distracting readers from the FordBarn mission", "here are links to all the FordBarn posts about your subject matter, you should start here 1st before posting a new thread"!

I am mystified that 0.003" or 0.004" of extra clearance could cause noise.
But, how do I know my noise is from the valves and not something else?
I have checked everything I can without dropping the pan.
It is a new noise since my backfiring incident

tick-tick-tick
loudest by the stethoscope in the front of the engine
Not the timing gear or its spring, crank pulley, compression, plugs, intake or exhaust manifold, muffler, no change in sound when disconnecting one plug at a time.


Thnaks so much

Diatsole in the Smokies

 

[Jim/GA]

If it is a click or a tick, it is most likely a lifter. Don't worry about it.

Put 2 oz. (1/4 cup) of Marvel Mystery Oil into 5 gallons of gas (you have a ~10 gallon tank, so 1/4 cup when the tank is half full). Drive it. That will lubricate the valve stems.

Anything else other than a lifter will sound more like a knock than a click or a tick.

I assume it changes frequency with engine RPM. It should.

The one thing you can do is, while the engine is running and ticking, use a long screwdriver to short out one plug at a time and see if the ticking sound goes away as you short each plug out. I doubt it will.

Place the tip of the screwdriver on a stud, then bring the shaft of the screwdriver over to the top of the spark plug. You should notice RPM dropping a little when you do, then go back up when you move the screwdriver away.

If the ticking stops when you short out a plug, it's a connecting rod thing.

You could get another Model A owner to come listen to it. Where are you?

 

[Diastole]

To all,
I have tried to adjust the three lifters that are the most out-of-spec, 0.003”—0.004”. I cannot get the nut to turn. I am certain I have the one-nut-adjuster, see photos.
One club member opined that maybe the lifters are left-handed threaded.
Does anyone know if adjustable lifters have right- or left-handed threads?
I tried with a moderate amount of force to get the nuts of valves 2, 6, and 7 to turn to no avail.

I had decided to abandon the valve-lifter-adjustment when the left handed thread suggestion came in. Gotta love your Ford A Model Club buddies.

Incidentally, has anyone tried to weld or braze a valve cover to repair cracks in the return tube junction?
Brazing does not heat the base metal up as much but welding actually bonds the base metal to the repair (stronger at ceasing crack propagation).
I want to keep things as original as possible. Yes, I know aluminum covers are available, and cat iron full flow covers are available, and EBay has covers of questionable quality.

Diastole in the Smokies.

 

[nkaminar]

Cast iron is difficult to repair. You can try it but have a spare cover on the shelf in case it does not work.

The adjustment bolts are right handed. (Counter clockwise to loosen, or in this case reduce the clearance.) Try some penetrating oil and maybe some mild heat. There should be flats on the lifters to keep them from moving while you move the bolts. They are designed to be hard to move so that they don't move in use.

 

[Randall]

looks like the adjuster bolt might be bottomed out if you are trying to get more lash,some valves need to be shorten