Adjustable lifters keep backing off - what do u do?

Planojc said:
I’m curious why the V8’s have problems with adj. lifters and the Model A engines don’t seem to. In our Model A club, I don’t know anyone that is not running adj. lifters and I have never heard of anyone having problems with them.
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I believe the model A style lifters have a lock nut on them
 
I successfully used adjustables for my first rebuild in 1958. Granted time and events have changed the market-place but I continue to use them being careful to perform close inspection prior to installation.
 
For those choosing solid lifters check out Fiatnutz on Utube. He machined a fixture
for grinding stems pretty slick. I believe he will machine one for you dial indicator
not included....
 
I'll chip in with the limited amount of knowledge I do have about adjustables. The screw is compressed as described above so the threads in the upper and lower part are not in phase (thanks for the good description above). The screw is tight when the upper and lower part are both in contact with the threads in the lifter body. If the lifter is able to work with the screw in the mid part of the adjustment range, and also importantly, the winding of the screw is kept to a minimum, then it ought to work as expected. If the tolerance stackup of the parts you are using causes the screw to be almost all the way in, or almost all the way out, then the lower part of the screw is no longer really deeply engaged with the body threads and the locking effectiveness is compromised.

I have only used them a handful of times but paid careful attention to where the adjustment was sitting. I shortened the valves to get the screw positioned in the sweet spot.

You will have problems (Or the chances of having a problem are greatly increased) if:

The screw is almost all the way in
The screw is almost all the way out
The screw has been wound in and out too many times.

If when setting the final adjustment the screw is not real tight to turn, then you will have a problem.

Mart.
 
Please avert your eyes if you are traumatized by the use of tools in an unorthodox fashion.:eek:

I rigged this up to grind my (cheap chevy) valve stems. I am satisfied with the result though I have not started the engine yet. They came out flat and the grind pattern is centered. It required remounting the grinding wheel with bronze bushings to take the wobble out from the plastic mounting bushings. I used very light pressure and spun the valve while it was in contact with the wheel. I cooled the valves frequently and obviously had to check them over and over to get to the correct clearance. I only ground one too short and had to replace it. Set-up is key, making sure everything is plumb and square I spent a little time checking and shimming the aluminum post holding the valve. It's SLOW; I would grind, quench, drop it in the hole and check the clearance with the lifter while applying pressure with my finger and repeat probably 10-15x for each valve. I am happy to say all are right at the book clearance limits, I'll soon see how it worked out.

As an aside, I expected to destroy the grinding wheel but there not only wasn't a groove worn in it, there was almost no perceptible wear.
 

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Rigley said:
I find the pros and cons of using adjustable lifters quite interesting. Im rebuilding a 53 EAB that is practically stock with 390 holly, modified dizzy and headers with dual exhaust. The car is a heavy convertible with 3 speed. If the stock cam checks out OK should i use it or use an aftermarket? As long as it's apart now would be the time.:confused:
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Use the stock cam.
 
Pete said:
You guys and your Loctite.
Do you remember how you get parts apart that have been assembled with Loctite?
You warm them up.
Internal engine parts get way above the release temperature of any loctite.
If the parts are not coming loose with Loctite on them, it is NOT because of the Loctite.
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Pete, I agree with you in part... if the correct Lock-Tite is utilized, they won't loosen up due to any heat that the engine will produce. There are numerous variations of Lock-Tite. I used it on occasion when die manufacturing, some under high heat penetration. All with good and intended results.
 
SofaKing said:
Please avert your eyes if you are traumatized by the use of tools in an unorthodox fashion.:eek:

I rigged this up to grind my (cheap chevy) valve stems. I am satisfied with the result though I have not started the engine yet. They came out flat and the grind pattern is centered. It required remounting the grinding wheel with bronze bushings to take the wobble out from the plastic mounting bushings. I used very light pressure and spun the valve while it was in contact with the wheel. I cooled the valves frequently and obviously had to check them over and over to get to the correct clearance. I only ground one too short and had to replace it. Set-up is key, making sure everything is plumb and square I spent a little time checking and shimming the aluminum post holding the valve. It's SLOW; I would grind, quench, drop it in the hole and check the clearance with the lifter while applying pressure with my finger and repeat probably 10-15x for each valve. I am happy to say all are right at the book clearance limits, I'll soon see how it worked out.

As an aside, I expected to destroy the grinding wheel but there not only wasn't a groove worn in it, there was almost no perceptible wear.
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Make sure that you get back to us. I have a couple of "econo-builds" going and was considering an approach such as this. IIRC, when I was a kid in the '50's, the guys at the little local garage would do them "free-hand" on a bench grinder!
 
Grinding on the side of a grinding wheel is a major no-no. This may be very light grinding but not worth the risk to me.
 
I used adjustable lifters in my motor, L100 cam and Chevy valves. I wished I had checked the original lifters first, to see if they could have been used. The Ford lifter was much lighter weight and that is less strain on the valve train, and Adjusting is a pain in the a$$ I don't care what anyone says. I had about 300 miles when some ticking had occurred, I am sure a couple are loose. I don't want to pull the heads and change it over now so off with the intake and check every one again. I am posting this to let those considering a cam regind to check first you will save money and a longer lasting quiet motor. my 2 cents.
 
Wish my '40 had adjustables! It only has a little over 1,000 miles since Dad had it rebuilt by a machine shop in Ford Dodge Iowa that was supposed to be the cat's meow on flatheads. Well, it's clacked since day one. After Dad gave me the car I pulled the intake and found one valve at .022" and some more at .015"+ (plus oil pressure was low and rear main leaks like a sieve). Oh well, a good winter project! There seems to be a Merc crank and some 3 5/16" pistons lurking in the garage, too.
 
get rid of all the trouble and replace the adjustables with the lifters ford designed for the flat head, its not the non adjustable lifters that's the problem, its the back yard mechanic that caused all your problems, you know the type I over hauled my flat head lawn mower engine and it runs
 
Ross F-1 said:
Grinding on the side of a grinding wheel is a major no-no. This may be very light grinding but not worth the risk to me.
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Ross, What is the specific risk here? Not getting the ends square? The resulting finish on the end of the valve stem? I'd really like to know before I go and do something stupid. It'll be interesting to see how "SofaKing"'s scheme works out.
 
tubman said:
Ross, What is the specific risk here? Not getting the ends square? The resulting finish on the end of the valve stem? I'd really like to know before I go and do something stupid. It'll be interesting to see how "SofaKing"'s scheme works out.
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The risk is that the grinding wheel is not designed for this type of pressure (from the side). It can be dangerous in that the wheel can deflect and explode - causing you bodily harm. I have a cousin who lost an eye like this - and he was wearing a face shield (went right through it).

With that said, with a thick grinding wheel and if you stay close to the arbor and DON'T apply much pressure, you'll probably be fine. BUT - you are taking a chance.

A valve butt grinder on a valve machine uses stones/wheels that are specifically designed to grind in this manner . . . they're constructed as such.
 
Not sure about the foreign made stuff but you are sure to have problem if you use adjustable lifters with a reground cam because the screw has to be out too far. Once upon a time there were lifters made with thicker heads that worked fine with reground cams.
 
jimTN said:
Not sure about the foreign made stuff but you are sure to have problem if you use adjustable lifters with a reground cam because the screw has to be out too far. Once upon a time there were lifters made with thicker heads that worked fine with reground cams.
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Doesn't that depend on the valve length? There are different length valves and there are valve stem caps.
 
Ross and "Bored&Stroked",

Thanks for the clarification. As I understand it now, the risk is more to oneself than for the valves. I have a Max-1 going into the 258 incher I am currently building. I was going to use the standard heavy adjustables that came with it, but after reading this thread, I am reconsidering that decision. In my collection of parts, I'm sure I have at least 16 Ford lifters that can be re-surfaced. I am also intrigued by the concept of lash caps; has anyone done any in depth research on them? If not, I think I'll go on a little fishing expedition of my own.
 
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