Adjustable lifter issue

3twinridges

3twinridges

Well-known member
Almost done assembling the valves and getting ready for lash adjustment. I roughed out what height the lifters needed to be and have been setting them on the bench to keep block adjustment minimal. The first couple of lifters were really tight so no worries on those. The last 2 were loose in comparison, they fail the 5 ft/lb torque test, probably half that.

I read GB’s “loose in the lifters” thread and tried compressing the screw in the vise on an old lifter. First press it tightened up a little and on second press I collapsed the screw at the thin neck area and ruined it! Glad it was an old one!

I have green loctite on the way, thoughts on just applying a tiny amount to the upper bolt thread such that I can still adjust in the block after it sets up? Or would you apply to the neck of the screw right after final adjustment in the block?

JB
 
I think Loctite Blue would be a better choice for this application. At least you have some chance of turning the adjusting screw, albeit with some effort.
 
I fiddled with this tonight before going to loctite.

First I raided my old box of original Johnson hollows. Only two out of the box passed the ft/lb torque test, those two will need to be machined.

Then I remembered I still had the old 226 lifters from that rebuild sitting on the shelf. The 226 uses adjustables stock, they just look different. I took the screw out of one of those, it’s got a split end instead of a narrow neck, and put it in the Johnson. Man that sucker was tight, no way that loses adjustment. The screw size is the same but the adjustment takes a 1/2 socket instead of 7/16. I weighed it and really no difference in weight, still about 80 grams.

I think I am going to do that to about 8 of the original Johnsons and have the machine shop machine them and use in place of any of the new Red’s that don’t pass 60 in/lbs. Then I can stay away from loctite. Thoughts on my approach? Thx for the thump on the head with green!

JB
 
The six cyl approach sounds good. Can you send a pic of them showing the split bolt? Also, what needs to be done in the machine shop? I have been experimenting with lock nuts like most all adjustables have had for years. I bought a box of 100 fine thread lock nuts and found that if I shave 1/8"off the top of the lifter and reduce the locknut to 1/8", I have a workable solution. I'm not thrilled about having a shortened lifter body, but when a cam with some lift is involved I think the full locknut can be used as is and possibly no material removed from the lifter body. I have yet to test my 1/8" thick jamb nut with a torque wrench and see how it holds up. With a regular box wrench it seems I can crank really tight.
 
I was going to have a used set of adjustable lifters reground, but I was lucky enough to score a set of NOS Johnson lifters on eBay. They weren't cheap but there the real deal, vintage instructions and everything.
 
3twinridges said:
I fiddled with this tonight before going to loctite.

First I raided my old box of original Johnson hollows. Only two out of the box passed the ft/lb torque test, those two will need to be machined.

Then I remembered I still had the old 226 lifters from that rebuild sitting on the shelf. The 226 uses adjustables stock, they just look different. I took the screw out of one of those, it’s got a split end instead of a narrow neck, and put it in the Johnson. Man that sucker was tight, no way that loses adjustment. The screw size is the same but the adjustment takes a 1/2 socket instead of 7/16. I weighed it and really no difference in weight, still about 80 grams.

I think I am going to do that to about 8 of the original Johnsons and have the machine shop machine them and use in place of any of the new Red’s that don’t pass 60 in/lbs. Then I can stay away from loctite. Thoughts on my approach? Thx for the thump on the head with green!

JB
Click to expand...
We used green at a place I worked in the early nineties. Basically “gluing” a bronze bushing sleeve in place. After that stuff set, that bushing wasn’t moving for love or money…..
 
3twin... are the adjuster bolts from the 6 cly lifters the same as Model A llifters? Y block lifters?
 
When I was researching 3/8-24 lifter bolts it seems I found some from Harley Davidson and maybe Dodge that used split bolts. I looked for the bolts as replacement items but didn't find them. Shoulda looked at flathead ford six :)
 
7 out of 16 wouldn’t hold at 60 in/lbs. I bet 4 out of those 7 wouldn’t hold 10 in/lb. Definitely no quality control and the last thing I will buy at that outfit.

I did luck up on an original NOS set. They all test out to spec and look great. That said, I still think the 226 lifter screw is a good quality screw to use if you have one loose.

JB
 
I have seen them... wonder what the Rockwell test would net. Has there been failures with "soft" lifters?, flatheads don't have much spring pressure. Sounds like the biggest issue is the bolts not holding Torq.
 
big deuce said:
Who's lifters were you having trouble with?
Click to expand...

I wouldn’t want to call them out. I should have checked them when they first got here, so I didn’t give them a chance to make it right. They have sat in my parts pile for a year so it’s on me really. That said, for anyone that gets new hollow adjustables, I would check them upon receipt for loose screws and get it corrected while you can.

JB
 
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