Adjustable Drag Link
- Thread starter Vic in E-TN
- Start date
dmaxweb
Well-known member
This thread describes 2 designs for an adjustable drag link
(a) 18" tie rod stock (solid 11/16") with 2 tie rod ends
(b) Original drag link cut in half with 5/8" threaded adjusting sleeve in the middle.
With design (a) the springs on both ends are inboard of the balls. When the drag link is pushed forward by the pitman arm, the pressure between the balls is spring against spring. When the drag link is pulled back, the pressure is solid end cup against solid end cup. Design (b) maintains Fords original where there is aways one spring inboard and one spring outboard no matter if the drag link is pushed forward or pulled back by the pitman arm.
With a spare drag link or a couple of tie rod ends, the time and cost for making either is about the same and pretty small.
Any thoughts on (a) vs. (b) ?
(a) 18" tie rod stock (solid 11/16") with 2 tie rod ends
(b) Original drag link cut in half with 5/8" threaded adjusting sleeve in the middle.
With design (a) the springs on both ends are inboard of the balls. When the drag link is pushed forward by the pitman arm, the pressure between the balls is spring against spring. When the drag link is pulled back, the pressure is solid end cup against solid end cup. Design (b) maintains Fords original where there is aways one spring inboard and one spring outboard no matter if the drag link is pushed forward or pulled back by the pitman arm.
With a spare drag link or a couple of tie rod ends, the time and cost for making either is about the same and pretty small.
Any thoughts on (a) vs. (b) ?
dmaxweb
Well-known member
Is this adjustable drag link still available? My email is bdavis@scattercreek.com
katy
Well-known member
Learn by the mistakes of others, you'll never live long enough to make them all yourself. Anonymous
Is this still available?
Y-Blockhead
Well-known member
Machine Girl has not advertised in ~7 years. https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=135427
Somewhere it was posted that the tie rod ends version can interfere with the steering arms, etc. Cutting and threading with rt. and left hand dies a used drag link and adding the center clamp may be better. The shortened pitman arm will not allow the steering gear and steering wheel to be at the center point for removing freeplay with wheels straight ahead as posted by others.
CarlG
Well-known member
His wares are listed on eBay under the name "dav4564d". However, he doesn't have anything listed presently. As noted above he hasn't been on this site for a while, due being kicked off for who knows what reason.
I have one of his adjustable drag links, just waiting to install it when I get a round tuit.
OK, since I couldn't find an adjustable drag link to buy I measured my drag link at .629". So I ordered a 5/8"-18 left hand die nut (already had a right hand die). and a 5/8" adjusting sleeve. Was thinking about cutting out 1" or 1 1/2" and threading both ends. Anyone done this? Is this about right?
dmaxweb
Well-known member
That is exactly what did a number of years ago. I seem to recall I removed 2" out of the middle but I'm not sure. Use the length of the sleeve as a guide for the length of the rod and how much thread. With the steering box set up correctly, the drag length adjustment needed should be very small and I wanted to leave as much of the rod as possible.
Sleeve is a MOOG #ES2032S
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Have done the one using a Moog adjustable sleeve using the dies as posted on an old extra drag link. Cut enough threads but don't cut out too much of the drag to get the most support from the sleeve. Then fine tune trim the removed drag section as needed.
wensum
Senior Member
I bought one off Machine Girl a few years ago when I was unable to get full lock on both sides after fitting a shortened pitman arm. It worked a treat and was an excellent product.